NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Looks like my buddy and I are going to tackle a few things on the car this evening. I just picked up a set of ground control 600/650 coilovers. I will be installing them on my factory FG2's with the MM kit. I also have a new brakemotive brake kit I'm going to throw on at the same time and I have some new MAP trailing arms but I'm probably going to wait to install those until I get my TIC bushings for them.

Any tips or pointers before we get started? Any special tools needed that I should know about before ripping into it?

What's the best way to set the height on the coilovers? I've never messed with a coil over setup before so im a coil over noob! Lol I was initially going to run H&R's but some of you guys suggested the ground control kit for the firmer springs and adjustability so I went this route. I want the car to sit low. About the same in the rear as the H&R's if possible and a little lower in the front than H&R's. Also, can they be adjusted while they are installed on the car or will I need to remove them completely for adjustments??

Thanks in advance fellas! Figured since this is my first coil over experience some pointers would help!

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

It's a straightforward installation. Time consuming.

You might want to try the 650 in-lb springs in the front. That's where I wound up. When you lower the car beyond a certain point, you'll want a high spring rate to avoid bottoming out, damaging the front apron, and/or damaging your fenders. This might be a good time to roll them a little. As far as I can tell, there is very little downside to ramping up the front end spring rate. On the other hand, if you go too high on the rear end, it'll greatly unsettle your ride. Personally, I think the ride starts to get obnoxious at 700 in-lbs in the rear, but I'm still tweaking.

Watch the front spring rotation carefully--try to orient them so that you have a nice gap between coils right where the silver cap on the shock is--otherwise, you might get some rattling when the shock compresses and bananas.

The rear springs are super easy to mess with after the fact. Make sure you really crank down the threaded red section that the gold ring attaches to--otherwise, it'll loosen up and rattle. Tighten down the center shock mounting nuts until they stop. The big thick slice of rubber up there will balloon out a little bit. It's okay. If you don't, it'll loosen up and rattle.

Might also want to look up the Feffman fix. I PMed you about this earlier. It's not a huge deal (maybe a 10-15% improvement), so don't let it stop the installation.

Finally, note that the driver's side front and the passenger side rear tend to need more attention when leveling the car. Give yourself an extra 1/4 turn or so on the driver's side front to ensure that your weight doesn't throw the car out of balance. Give the right rear a extra 1/2 turn to start, because for whatever reason, that corner always rests a little lower.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Appreciate the help bud along with all the useful info! So 650 in the front and 600 in the rear? Almost seems like that would be beneficial for weight transfer when launching anyway. I was just always told the higher spring rate goes in the rear but I can swap them like that.

I recall that mod u were talking about. I'll have to look it up and see what all is involved again and maybe I'll do it when we install them. If not, I'm sure I can do it later if I have any issues. Just don't wanna deal with any annoying squeaks or rattles.

I recall on my old car, we cut the springs equally side to side and my passenger side always seemed lower than the drivers side... Especially in the rear. I guess these cars naturally lean slightly to the passenger side for some reason.

So ideally, I want to have all 4 corners at the same height from the floor to the fender lip?

I think I'm going to install the rears as low as they will go with the perch. I know there is supposedly a way to remove the perch to get the rear even lower but I think I'd rather just order 8" coils if lowering it down as low as possible with these 10" coils isn't low enough. I think the hardest part will be setting the height evenly in the front and where I want it.

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

just send me the ****** and leave your **** stock... easiest

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I found that the car still nose dived too much when I had 600 lb springs, which is why I went up to 650 lbs. That also cut down on the damage I kept doing to the fender liners. You'll probably wind up playing with the rear spring rate a lot. Thank heavens it's so easy to swap springs back there.

The Feffman fix basically involves putting an extra washer in the rear shock stack.

Ideally, you want to have all four corners at the same height with a full tank of gas (18.5 gallons @ 8.3 lbs per gallon) and with you in the driver's seat.

Start the fronts at 1/2 of maximum drop and the rears at full drop. Be careful with the 8" spring idea...I'm presently dealing with some weirdness over here that started when I replaced my 700 in-lb 8" springs with 650 in-lb 8" springs. I'm almost at the travel limit of the perches (before, I had plenty of room) and I'm starting to get nervous that I'll lose the springs if I get this car airborne. If I can find a set of aftermarket end links (i.e.: ones that are the correct size), that'll solve the problem, but for right now, if I jack the rear end of the car off the ground, I can pull the springs out without unbolting the shocks or the sway bars.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Kevin... Tempting but I'm over the 4x4 mode... Lol

Ok, I'll run the 650's in the front. If the 600's in the rear are too soft but the height with it adjusted all the way down is where I want it, I'll just find some 10" 650's or 700's to put back there as well since those are easier to swap like u said.

Yikes! 8" idea sounds kinda risky. Do they offer a 9" coil? That might be a better option so the spring is long enough to compress some and keep the tension when the rear is adjusted where u want it.

What do you have your car set at height wise from the ground to the fenders? I know we probably won't end up exactly the same but I'm trying to get an idea of what my goal should be height wise. With the rears all the way down as low as they go, do you think I'll still have an issue with the passenger rear being slightly lower than the drivers rear or should they sit even? I'll start 1/2 way on the front and adjust from there like u said. I hope adjusting the front is easy. I'm hoping I can just pull the wheel again once the car is jacked up and make adjustments without having to remove the front shocks completely if that's possible.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

You can make adjustments when the wheels are removed.

9" springs don't exist. Don't ask me why--even Doorman doesn't know.

I think you'll still have an issue with the passenger side rear because the problem is probably being caused by an uneven side-to-side weight distribution. If you don't have a problem, then the issue has to stem from slightly asymmetrical spring mounting points.

Fender-to-ground distance is about 26 3/8", but that'll vary based on your tire inflation. I wouldn't recommended going below 26" unless you're willing to risk messing up a fender if you hit a bump while turning hard. I've rolled my fenders and I have a little bit of negative camber all around.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Hmm... I wonder if they could be custom ordered? I suppose we could trim the 10" springs but I'd hate to cut a nice aftermarket coil.

And yeah, you're probably right. I think all of these cars just tend to lean that way from the factory. My old car did it and even stock height, it seems like this car does it just a tad too.

I plan to roll the rear fender lips 100%. I don't want any issues with chewing up the tires. I'll stay 26" and above. It's a daily so it needs to be practical as much as I love that slammed look.

Oh... Do I need to cut the bump stops or remove the dust boots on the shocks?

I think I might go ahead and mock up the kit on my extra set of FG2's since they haven't sold yet so I can just bolt em in once I get the old stuff out. Might save me some time.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

The front dust boots are supposed to be removed. The rear ones are supposed to stay. You do have the instructions, right?

http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answe...all/index.html

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Ok. I believe there are some directions in the box. I haven't looked. I bought the kit for my old car and when I sold it to him, I sold him the ground control kit too and now I'm buying it back for this car.

Is that spring compressor tool really necessary? I seem to recall not needing one when we cut the springs on my old car but I really can't remember if we used one or not.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I found it absolutely necessary. You can pick one up at AutoZone or some local shop if you don't have one. They're cheap.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Ok. I'll run and grab that now then so I have it for the install.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Maybe I'm wrong but it looks like these springs are 500/550 combo. The pairs of springs have numbers on em. One set says 1000/250/500 and the other says 1000/250/550. Hoping that's just a part number and it works out to be a 600/650 kit like I was told it was when I bought it a long time ago. I was told its the "aggressive street" kit.

Other numbers on the springs are 246429 and 247348. Tried googling the numbers but nothing came up.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

That's their mid-level kit. Mine came with 550/600. The first number represents length (10.00"), followed by width (2.50"), and spring-rate.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Ahh ok. I was told it was mid-level. They have 3 options if I remember right. Street, aggressive street and track.

I guess street is 450/500, aggressive street is 500/550 and track is 600/650? I thought I had the 600/650 kit. Now I'm disappointed and wondering if I should still buy them from him or just order the stiffer set new? Hmmm

garrettg

iTrader: (1)

If you give them extra turns they will take on even more weight. Unless your going for looks or preventing tire rub the last thing you want is more weight on those corners by jacking it up further.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Now I'm wondering if H&R's might be the better route for me since the ground control kit isn't gonna be as stiff as I initially thought. H&R's will pretty much give me the stance I want... Just won't have any adjustment but for a daily street car, it might just be easier to throw those in and be done. Or should u still go ground control? What y'all think? Or really just u fuzzy since you're the main one helping me? Lol

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

I'm running 600/650 and qa1 right now, will be ditching them and going back to 500/550 with the fg2s.

I've run so many combos of springs and shocks... My favorite is 500/550 and fg2s, at 26.5 all around. Its soo smooth. Perfect balance.

I like the 600/650 but the truth is, it's just too harsh for the crappy roads around my area. If it were smooth everywhere I'd keep them in. The 500/550 are firmer than stock but still very forgiving.

I only considered the h&rs because the gc can tend to be very clunky
I'd run the stock fg2 setup if it didn't look like the car was in a 3 point stance.

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

Run the kit as is, you might be surprised. Springs can be had later and swapped in minutes. I don't even pull the towers to swap springs in front, just unbolt and pull from bottom.

With stiffer sways , 500/550 is even better. Once you go 600/650, the stock sways are a better choice imo..

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Well that makes me feel better. Thanks for the input bud! I'll go ahead and stick with running the GC kit and like u said, springs are always an option and the adjustability will still be nice. I'll look into some sways if i dont like it on stock sways and then go from there.

How do you run your 500/550 kit? 550 in the front or rear??