Did anyone notice an increase in cabin noise from a CAI?
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am no doubt in the minority here. I am trying to decrease the noise in the cabin of my 2005 V. The previous owner had some sort of CAI installed, but returned it to what I thought was stock before I purchased it. Upon changing of the air filter I noticed there is a section of the airbox bottom removed (a pie shape about 3-5" or so) and there is no "tubing" prior to the airbox. Just a hole with what looks like used to be some sort of flange. Unfortunately for me, I have become quite sensitive to a noisy cabin and at highway speeds would like to drop the noise as much as possible. So, assume my airbox is some sort of attempt at a CAI, when you guys installed an aftermarket CAI did you notice more engine noise? My guess is yes. Anyone have pics of what the stock box and input pipe should look like? I can't find them anywhere.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
An aftermarket cold air intake shouldn't increase noise noticeably. If anything, the stock rubber intake tube creates noise.
Frankly, if you're this sensitive to noise, you're driving the wrong type of car. I could understand if you had an aftermarket catback, headers, and a cam, but the stock equipment is very quiet for something in this power range.
Your only alternative, in my opinion, is to spend at least $800 on quality damper and MLV treatment layers. It'll weigh 80+ lbs and it'll take you 10-20 hours to install it correctly. If you want to have it professionally installed, the total cost will be in the thousands.
Edit: just so you know, I put $500 worth of sound dampening gear into my CTS-V and have spent at least a dozen hours tracking down and eliminating rattles and squeaks. So I understand the general desire for a quiet cabin, but the kind of mechanical stress that I'm putting on the car is far greater than whatever you're doing. When I started those mods, I couldn't hold a conversation in the cabin at highway speeds.
Frankly, if you're this sensitive to noise, you're driving the wrong type of car. I could understand if you had an aftermarket catback, headers, and a cam, but the stock equipment is very quiet for something in this power range.
Your only alternative, in my opinion, is to spend at least $800 on quality damper and MLV treatment layers. It'll weigh 80+ lbs and it'll take you 10-20 hours to install it correctly. If you want to have it professionally installed, the total cost will be in the thousands.
Edit: just so you know, I put $500 worth of sound dampening gear into my CTS-V and have spent at least a dozen hours tracking down and eliminating rattles and squeaks. So I understand the general desire for a quiet cabin, but the kind of mechanical stress that I'm putting on the car is far greater than whatever you're doing. When I started those mods, I couldn't hold a conversation in the cabin at highway speeds.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 08-05-2012 at 03:52 PM.
#4
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
An aftermarket cold air intake shouldn't increase noise noticeably. If anything, the stock rubber intake tube creates noise.
Frankly, if you're this sensitive to noise, you're driving the wrong type of car. I could understand if you had an aftermarket catback, headers, and a cam, but the stock equipment is very quiet for something in this power range.
Your only alternative, in my opinion, is to spend at least $800 on quality damper and MLV treatment layers. It'll weigh 80+ lbs and it'll take you 10-20 hours to install it correctly. If you want to have it professionally installed, the total cost will be in the thousands.
Edit: just so you know, I put $500 worth of sound dampening gear into my CTS-V and have spent at least a dozen hours tracking down and eliminating rattles and squeaks. So I understand the general desire for a quiet cabin, but the kind of mechanical stress that I'm putting on the car is far greater than whatever you're doing. When I started those mods, I couldn't hold a conversation in the cabin at highway speeds.
Frankly, if you're this sensitive to noise, you're driving the wrong type of car. I could understand if you had an aftermarket catback, headers, and a cam, but the stock equipment is very quiet for something in this power range.
Your only alternative, in my opinion, is to spend at least $800 on quality damper and MLV treatment layers. It'll weigh 80+ lbs and it'll take you 10-20 hours to install it correctly. If you want to have it professionally installed, the total cost will be in the thousands.
Edit: just so you know, I put $500 worth of sound dampening gear into my CTS-V and have spent at least a dozen hours tracking down and eliminating rattles and squeaks. So I understand the general desire for a quiet cabin, but the kind of mechanical stress that I'm putting on the car is far greater than whatever you're doing. When I started those mods, I couldn't hold a conversation in the cabin at highway speeds.
Anyway, I appreciate the insight on noise dampening as well. I am trying to do as much as I can before I finally decide to sell the V. I have new tires that are quiet grand touring instead of max performance style. I still have a bit of vibration that I am afraid is a indexed driveshaft that is no longer indexed after the previous owner did a clutch job. I will have the tires rebalanced first. Either way the vibration adds to the general noise.
#5
#6
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Anyway, you wouldn't by chance know what a driveshaft that needs re-indexed feels like in terms of vibrations? I seem to remember the vibrations with the last set of tires too. It's not much, feels "tight" (as in a high frequency I guess) and only really comes into play at 60+.
#7
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Old Dominion
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
There is more induction noise with a K&N. Also you will have more engine noise with 'vette FRC's, if you don't have the stock Caddy lid. And what tires do you have? You may want to go with some touring stuff vs performance stuff if you want to get rid of any last bit of noise.
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
True, but is the V any more than a tarted up CTS? Aren't the 5-series and CTS pseudo competitors?
Anyway, you wouldn't by chance know what a driveshaft that needs re-indexed feels like in terms of vibrations? I seem to remember the vibrations with the last set of tires too. It's not much, feels "tight" (as in a high frequency I guess) and only really comes into play at 60+.
Anyway, you wouldn't by chance know what a driveshaft that needs re-indexed feels like in terms of vibrations? I seem to remember the vibrations with the last set of tires too. It's not much, feels "tight" (as in a high frequency I guess) and only really comes into play at 60+.
Back on the subject of sound... it's my belief that you should be driving a car like this aggressively on a regular basis (like the video below)--otherwise, you just wasted a whole lot of money on a big engine and stiffer suspension that you'll spend even more money trying to quiet and calm down.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 08-05-2012 at 05:44 PM.
#9
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It sounds like the previous owner removed the snorkel when he installed his CAI. I doubt that will add to our noise, though. I'm with the others. There are certainly things you can do to reduce noise, like the fluidrampr dampner and sound isolation materials, but it will be a losing battle. I'd this will be a long term issue, recommend you sell the car am buy a bimmer or something.
#11
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
A badly-designed CAI might whistle if you have sharp edges or leaks, but those problems are easily fixed.
#12
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My K&N whistles when I get on the gas, but I would say most of my cabin noise comes from the tires.
Getting a pushrod v8 to behave quietly is something difficult. If your exhaust is stock you'd be best served doing as suggested early on in this thread and lining the floor and doors with sound dampener and noise absorbing foam.
Getting a pushrod v8 to behave quietly is something difficult. If your exhaust is stock you'd be best served doing as suggested early on in this thread and lining the floor and doors with sound dampener and noise absorbing foam.