howanicm

iTrader: (1)

Hello all. I am trying to diagnose a horrible clunk in my drivetrain. I am curious what some symptoms of a broken cv in the driveshaft are. Or how you can diagnose a broke cv in the driveshaft. The clunk is only really bad when i am letting the clutch out and not slipping it enough or when i am reversing. I do have CS engine/trans mount and a CS diff bushing and block and TIC trailing arm bushings. Could this be an extrem ammount of backlash in the diff or do they usually break before geting that bad. There is not much diff whine just this clunk. I have tried to get a video but it does not come out good enough to see the slop. Thanks for any help

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babrown18

Usually it's the bushings or the dual mass flywheel that make the clunk.. I'd get your cars service history and see when/if they were replaced ever. It's a good investment.. New motor mounts may also help u out.

howanicm

iTrader: (1)

I replaced the engine/trans mounts with creative steel mounts in february 2011 and the diff bushing in july 2011. The clutch was also replaced in july with a spec clutch and flywheel. Are these differentials prone to developing excessive backlash?

Bacon

If you already did the diff bushing and it still persists, it could be the driveshaft coupler/guibo/flex disk or whatever you want to call it. Its a similar rubber to the stock diff bushing and can crack and wear over time. Even if the edges look ok, it can be torn up on the inside. This can cause torque reversal and unloading of the driveshaft when you engage/disengage the clutch.

SSmokd U

Check your diff mounting bolts. I mean the one in the diff bushing and the two on the back of the housing. I had replaced everything you have and was still getting horrible clunk. Even bought a new driveshaft cause everyone told me it was that. Turned out all three bolts were literally so loose I could turn them by hand. I torqued them all when we replaced the bushing so I have no idea how they got so lose.

howanicm

iTrader: (1)

I will check those 3 bolts first since they are free. If that dosent work I will pick up a couple new guibo disks. Do you recommend the aluminum ones or should i just get the stock rubber ones?

Bacon

Last I heard the stock ones are only available with a new driveshaft - so unless you want to go that route youre gonna have to do an aftermarket aluminum/poly unit. Unless you can find parts.

howanicm

iTrader: (1)

Oh didnt realize that. I thiught ive seen seen some but they were probabily used which dosent really make sence if they are prone to failure. Plus if im.gonna spend any money id rather spend a few bucks more and get good parts instead of the oem garbage

jmargo

iTrader: (10)

Aftermarket parts are not always "good parts".

babrown18

^^^agreed