DMH has a 4 year warranty, if they arent sealing I would contact them. Mine is pretty new and it works flawlessly.

 

No rattle and seal perfect but they're brand new. From what I hear, the owner stands behind his product so I'm sure you could get a replacement or something if you're still under warranty.

And hmm... That's a good point. I get that same light every once in awhile. Wonder if it's from the same thing. My exhaust has a super deep rumble and vibrates, shakes the car a lot more than normal. Everytime I've had the light (3 times or so), it goes away as soon as I turn the car off and back on.

 

I am aware of the 4 year warranty - but they have to be removed from the car and sent to him to have the warranty work done. Inconvenient and expensive...

still love them though!

 

How exactly are the ones you have set up?
The ones I have are a 3 bolt flange that disconnects it from the actual piping, and then the connector. I agree it would be inconvenient... but how would it be expensive? It always sucks when things don't work as they should.

 

I would imagine caps for the low profile flanges aren't easy to come by without the right kind of connections. The standard caps though are easily found and cheap.

 

I bought these from my local racing shop here in KC. When I told them that they were rattling and I wanted to warranty them they informed me that I'd have to the parts removed and then re-welded back on. Not to mention the gaping hole that would be left from the removal of the parts.

Maybe I should call DMH and see what there return policy is and figure out exactly what I need to warranty them.

 

Just out of curiosity, and it may be more work and cost than its worth, why hasn't anyone tried putting some type of limit switch on the cutout. That way when the cutout gets to fully open, or closed, it touches the switch and stops the motor??

 

I'm not sure to be honest. I guess as a manufacturing standpoint to keep costs as low as possible. It's really not that hard to count to 3-4 when you want to open them or close them though.

 

I installed my switch right by your right leg where the gap is by the center consol and carpet. It made a perfect hiding place and was out of the way from everything. I didn't have to cut anything it fit perfect, and I ran my hot I believe from the radio so I wouldn't have a constant hot.



I also mounted the cutouts after some catless headers and a x-pipe, i have yet to find something that screams louder than my V when I open this bad boy up

 

I think you should pull the shifter boot out and find a way to put the switch in there on the side or something. That way you can hide the switch and just put your hand over the edge of the boot on the drivers side and feel the switch to operate it. If theres a place to mount it in there.