Greed4Speed

iTrader: (7)

I'll second this. Although not in a V, I had a LS7 clutch and stepped up to a Diamond stage 3. It took everything my 408 threw at it for about 40k miles. 5k dumps on cheater slicks at the track, and worked great as a daily driver.

In my years in the pursuit of going fast, I've learned not to cut corners and would rather buy 1 over engineered clutch and be done with it for a while. I've seen people do fine with the LS7 clutch in lighter cars, and some not so well and the clutch wasn't engineered for a 4k+ lb car. IMO isn't not worth the risk of the cost of 2 clutches and labor X2 in short order in an attempt to save a couple hundred $ now. Just my $.02.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Second the Tick remote bleeder. Can't believe I forgot. While you're down there, you should change your transmission fluid, install UUC shifter bushings, and a short shifter.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Speaking of changing the tranny fluid... What kind do y'all run? Is there a drain plug on the bottom of the tranny or does it have to be sucked out?

soulja

iTrader: (3)

There is a drain plug, but to fill it you have to remove the sensor from the side of it. Remove the sensor first, then remove the drain plug. I just use Valvoline Synthetic.

vmapper

iTrader: (8)

That has to be harsh for street driving... look, there are no springs on the puck style disk.

vmapper

iTrader: (8)

When you purchased the Diamond clutch, did it come ready to install? Other than a remote bleeder, did you need anything else for it to work in a Gen I V?

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

The transmission fluid sensor doubles as the drain plug. It's located on the end of the tranny, passenger side. The fill plug is halfway up the drivers side of the transmission. Impossible to miss.

Shane at Thunder Racing recommends 3 quarts of Redline D4 ATF and 1 quart of Redline MTL 70W80 GL-4. Having tried everything from Mobil 1 ATF to Royal Purple Synchromax, I heartily agree with Shane. That Redline blend is not only the quietest mix I've used, it comes out the cleanest. Mobil 1 ATF made my transmission sound like a diesel truck engine.

GA95DCMSS

iTrader: (13)

Thats the plan. UUC Shirt shifter, UUC or CS Bushings, Fluid change, and whatever else I can do to tighten up the shifter. Had problems with finding reverse and it popping out. I have some Marines that work with me that have access to a machine shop (like legit machine shop, not engine type, but fabricating just about any damn thing), and I'm going to see about getting some aluminum/bronze/brass bushings made for the shift linkage and test them out. If I can get som access to some Derlin stock, I'll even give that a shot too.

lollygagger8

iTrader: (7)

I have a Stage 3 Monster in mine. I'll keep it until I get some drag radials and run at the track. It still squeaks, and chatters sometimes. Very annoying for a DD, but grips harder than a virgin giving a handy.


Definitely get a remote line!!

GA95DCMSS

iTrader: (13)

I think I'll end up going with the Diamond Stage 2 or 3, LS7 slave, Remote Bleeder (Tick or whomever), UUC shifter, bushings, and the obligatory fluid change. Anything I'm missing?

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Check and see whether what you're buying includes new flywheel bolts. They're torqued to yield, so you can't replace them. You'll also need the 26 spline alignment tool.

If you don't already have a transmission jack, buy the Harbor Freight one that costs about $75. If you think you can get by without it, I'll PM you my cell phone number and we'll have a conversation about how that tool reduced a two-man, multi-day sweat-a-thon to a one-day, one-man job.

GA95DCMSS

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for that info. If anything, I'll throw ARPs in while I'm down there...since I'm doing everything else. Oh and I'll send you a PM about that flywheel.

lollygagger8

iTrader: (7)

I used ARP's.....no problems here. Get a lightweight FW while you are at it.

This might help if you are doing it yourself. I did the clutch install awhile back....

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...h-install.html

soulja

iTrader: (3)

Lol, you are correct. I haven't changed my fluid in so long I forgot.

Fuzzy_Wuzzy

iTrader: (8)

Be sure to read through a thread i made right after installing my ls7 clutch I tried to gather all the tips i learned from reading the forums/doing it the hard way.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...tall-tips.html

The home depot pvc bushings for the transmission end of the remote shifter seemed worthwhile. Also brian already has a set of brass bushings for the end of the shift rod on the transmission which are reasonably priced (considering you don't have to sit around and take the measurements and do your own trial and error)

I would hesitate about making everything in the linkage solid, you are tying the transmission (somewhat free to move in the body) to the body and need some play to allow this motion to happen.

I agree if you do this without a trans jack you are crazy, even if you are strong enough to hold the transmission up there, getting it aligned right and finagled in there is a lot to do while supporting the weight of the transmission

babrown18

Quentin,

From my experience the best clutch is the LS7..

Check out that thread titled "it's alive" and check out what tony mamo did for that guys v. I think he has a custom grind cam 114 LSA.

**** when u get back lemme know ill head down there and we can get a beer or 50

raven154

iTrader: (14)

My stock LS7 took a **** and so did the SPEC stage 3 LS7 clutch after I installed the Maggie. I picked an Exedy like junior posted and it is THE clutch to set you sights on. Absolutely outstanding clutch.

racermike68

iTrader: (3)

Per our conversation the other day, I don't believe Brian is making the brass bushings anymore. I think the PVC is the only option now.

whatcop?

Mantic clutches are what the vette guys have been raving about.

Dmax/04V

That's the aussie clutch right?