ATI Super Damper Install on LS2 V1
#21
socket is not braced against the crank snout... its IN the crank snout. The crank is not hollow all the way through (it has a bottom).
Ive done this way, a good dozen times, never had an issue. The puller bolt sits IN the 1/2" drive where the socket would attach to. The socket extension is IN the crank. Its exactly the same as your purchased image above...
Not really mcgyver... hope that makes sense
Ive done this way, a good dozen times, never had an issue. The puller bolt sits IN the 1/2" drive where the socket would attach to. The socket extension is IN the crank. Its exactly the same as your purchased image above...
Not really mcgyver... hope that makes sense
#22
Well guys, I'm stumped. I spent all day just trying to get the damn pulley off. I broke the end of the arm of a rented autozone puller, then with another one i had trouble getting a good grip and it would slip off. Then I rented a 5-ton puller, but there was not room for the big hands inside the pulley, so i put them around the outside. All I succeeded in doing was separating the outer ring from the inner ring. It's actually pulled out a half inch more on one side than the other:
So, what are my options. Can you guys recommend an awesome quality puller that will get the job done? I am done with this autozone crap.
So, what are my options. Can you guys recommend an awesome quality puller that will get the job done? I am done with this autozone crap.
#25
Also, the longer Fastenal bolt would help. Or put a longer socket in between the bolt and the inside of the pulley.
#26
Rent one from Napa, or somewhere that has decent ****. Or just wait for the one you ordered to come in. I'm guessing the problem is the Auto Zone turd. I used a nice 3 ton that my buddy had from his shop.
Also, the longer Fastenal bolt would help. Or put a longer socket in between the bolt and the inside of the pulley.
Also, the longer Fastenal bolt would help. Or put a longer socket in between the bolt and the inside of the pulley.
#28
Well, the OTC puller worked like a charm. Stock puller came off like a knife through butter. Easy.
Fuzzylogic has been coaching me through the install, and I owe him a couple of beers, to say the least.
Question for anyone out there who has used an ARP crank bolt. There is conflicting information on whether to use red loctite or "ARP moly lube". What did you use, and why? I want to get this done tomorrow, don't want to order special lube and wait for it to ship, etc. Can I replace it with something else?
For what it's worth, the ATI Super Damper instructions say to use red loctite with the ARP bolt. My worry is that this will lead to a bolt that impossible to undo in the future. Is that possible?
Fuzzylogic has been coaching me through the install, and I owe him a couple of beers, to say the least.
Question for anyone out there who has used an ARP crank bolt. There is conflicting information on whether to use red loctite or "ARP moly lube". What did you use, and why? I want to get this done tomorrow, don't want to order special lube and wait for it to ship, etc. Can I replace it with something else?
For what it's worth, the ATI Super Damper instructions say to use red loctite with the ARP bolt. My worry is that this will lead to a bolt that impossible to undo in the future. Is that possible?
#29
Well, the OTC puller worked like a charm. Stock puller came off like a knife through butter. Easy.
Fuzzylogic has been coaching me through the install, and I owe him a couple of beers, to say the least.
Question for anyone out there who has used an ARP crank bolt. There is conflicting information on whether to use red loctite or "ARP moly lube". What did you use, and why? I want to get this done tomorrow, don't want to order special lube and wait for it to ship, etc. Can I replace it with something else?
For what it's worth, the ATI Super Damper instructions say to use red loctite with the ARP bolt. My worry is that this will lead to a bolt that impossible to undo in the future. Is that possible?
Fuzzylogic has been coaching me through the install, and I owe him a couple of beers, to say the least.
Question for anyone out there who has used an ARP crank bolt. There is conflicting information on whether to use red loctite or "ARP moly lube". What did you use, and why? I want to get this done tomorrow, don't want to order special lube and wait for it to ship, etc. Can I replace it with something else?
For what it's worth, the ATI Super Damper instructions say to use red loctite with the ARP bolt. My worry is that this will lead to a bolt that impossible to undo in the future. Is that possible?
#30
FWIW, I used ARP moly lube under the head of the bolt and the washer (got used to doing it with head studs on my 6.0L) and put red loctite on the threads. Nary a problem. I've pulled it back off to do a timing cover gasket, and all it took was a good strong impact gun.
Random other question-- were you able to get 250lb-ft of torque with a standard torque wrench or did you need a pipe extension? I need to be prepared if I'm gonna use red loctite.
#31
Thanks, good to know it will come off even after red loctite has been used. Is there anything I can get locally (hardware store of autozone, etc.) that is close enough to ARP moly lube?
Random other question-- were you able to get 250lb-ft of torque with a standard torque wrench or did you need a pipe extension? I need to be prepared if I'm gonna use red loctite.
Random other question-- were you able to get 250lb-ft of torque with a standard torque wrench or did you need a pipe extension? I need to be prepared if I'm gonna use red loctite.
Anyway, ARP used to recommend 30wt oil OR Moly lube. I'm not sure what they recommend these days. See if you can stop by Napa, they may have some kind of moly lube there, if you are trying to get this wrapped up rather soon. *Insert Disclaimer here_____________*
#32
250lb/ft? I've heard anything from 190lb/ft to 235lb/ft. If you call ARP, you'll get a different answer depending on what day you call, what time of day, who answers the phone, etc. I called to order some extra head studs, and asked the question about the balancer bolt torque with moly lube, got 235 lb/ft. Called a few hrs later to confirm before I torqued it down...next guy said 190 lb/ft...needless to sayI just went 220 with some threadlocker, and called it a day. I was able to get 220 but my engine was out of the car with someone using a flywheel holder to keep the crank from spinning.
Anyway, ARP used to recommend 30wt oil OR Moly lube. I'm not sure what they recommend these days. See if you can stop by Napa, they may have some kind of moly lube there, if you are trying to get this wrapped up rather soon. *Insert Disclaimer here_____________*
Anyway, ARP used to recommend 30wt oil OR Moly lube. I'm not sure what they recommend these days. See if you can stop by Napa, they may have some kind of moly lube there, if you are trying to get this wrapped up rather soon. *Insert Disclaimer here_____________*
If I'm just trying to use moly lube or motor oil to lubricate the washer and back of bolt head, does it really matter what I use? I would imagine even WD would do just fine...
#33
Well, the OTC puller worked like a charm. Stock puller came off like a knife through butter. Easy.
Fuzzylogic has been coaching me through the install, and I owe him a couple of beers, to say the least.
Question for anyone out there who has used an ARP crank bolt. There is conflicting information on whether to use red loctite or "ARP moly lube". What did you use, and why? I want to get this done tomorrow, don't want to order special lube and wait for it to ship, etc. Can I replace it with something else?
For what it's worth, the ATI Super Damper instructions say to use red loctite with the ARP bolt. My worry is that this will lead to a bolt that impossible to undo in the future. Is that possible?
Fuzzylogic has been coaching me through the install, and I owe him a couple of beers, to say the least.
Question for anyone out there who has used an ARP crank bolt. There is conflicting information on whether to use red loctite or "ARP moly lube". What did you use, and why? I want to get this done tomorrow, don't want to order special lube and wait for it to ship, etc. Can I replace it with something else?
For what it's worth, the ATI Super Damper instructions say to use red loctite with the ARP bolt. My worry is that this will lead to a bolt that impossible to undo in the future. Is that possible?
#34
#36
Thought y'all might like to know, I broke the bit off the modified install-tool inside the crankshaft, and called it. Had the car towed to PSI in Glen Burnie and Jeff saved the day. Very happy with Jeff's work and prices, by the way, and you would be too (as long as you are cool with email communication ONLY, as they basically never pick up their phone). Here's his Ls1tech profile: https://ls1tech.com/forums/member.php?u=449
I would have liked to have completed this little project on my own, but in the end I had to call it. I was burning an assload of time better spent advancing my career or... planting daisies or something. Next time I attempt something like this, I will not be using modified tools. I will only use the proper tools for the job.
There may be some evidence in here for other LS2 guys attempting this in the future. I believe the crank snout on my car may be a fraction of an inch wider than on other cars, making pulling and pressing much harder than usual. As factory assembly lines go, there is probably a batch out there that are like mine. If you have trouble taking your pulley off with a rented tool, then you can also assume you will have trouble putting it on, and need to have an LS-specific install tool.
Anyway, car is running smooooooth now. Good to be back on the road. Already thinking tune, cam, FI... it's a goddam addiction.
I would have liked to have completed this little project on my own, but in the end I had to call it. I was burning an assload of time better spent advancing my career or... planting daisies or something. Next time I attempt something like this, I will not be using modified tools. I will only use the proper tools for the job.
There may be some evidence in here for other LS2 guys attempting this in the future. I believe the crank snout on my car may be a fraction of an inch wider than on other cars, making pulling and pressing much harder than usual. As factory assembly lines go, there is probably a batch out there that are like mine. If you have trouble taking your pulley off with a rented tool, then you can also assume you will have trouble putting it on, and need to have an LS-specific install tool.
Anyway, car is running smooooooth now. Good to be back on the road. Already thinking tune, cam, FI... it's a goddam addiction.
#37
puller
So glad your back on the road again....and i heard PSI know their stuff about LS projects...I was going to go to them for my tune. What a mistake....Any way. What about this note having to have an LS specific tool...A friend of mine has a Snap On Pulley kit...That should work, i would think
There may be some evidence in here for other LS2 guys attempting this in the future. I believe the crank snout on my car may be a fraction of an inch wider than on other cars, making pulling and pressing much harder than usual. If you have trouble taking your pulley off with a rented tool, then you can also assume you will have trouble putting it on, and need to have an LS-specific install tool.
There may be some evidence in here for other LS2 guys attempting this in the future. I believe the crank snout on my car may be a fraction of an inch wider than on other cars, making pulling and pressing much harder than usual. If you have trouble taking your pulley off with a rented tool, then you can also assume you will have trouble putting it on, and need to have an LS-specific install tool.
#38
Thought y'all might like to know, I broke the bit off the modified install-tool inside the crankshaft, and called it. Had the car towed to PSI in Glen Burnie and Jeff saved the day. Very happy with Jeff's work and prices, by the way, and you would be too (as long as you are cool with email communication ONLY, as they basically never pick up their phone). Here's his Ls1tech profile: https://ls1tech.com/forums/member.php?u=449
I would have liked to have completed this little project on my own, but in the end I had to call it. I was burning an assload of time better spent advancing my career or... planting daisies or something. Next time I attempt something like this, I will not be using modified tools. I will only use the proper tools for the job.
Anyway, car is running smooooooth now. Good to be back on the road. Already thinking tune, cam, FI... it's a goddam addiction.
I would have liked to have completed this little project on my own, but in the end I had to call it. I was burning an assload of time better spent advancing my career or... planting daisies or something. Next time I attempt something like this, I will not be using modified tools. I will only use the proper tools for the job.
Anyway, car is running smooooooth now. Good to be back on the road. Already thinking tune, cam, FI... it's a goddam addiction.
Can you elaborate on your impressions with the damper? Specifically:
1. Do you notice any difference in throttle response now that you have a couple of extra pounds on the drivetrain? My guess is "probably not," since you still have your stock 50 lb flywheel.
2. This may be a hard question to answer since your most recent driving impressions feature a failing LS2 pulley, but in your opinion, is the car running smoother than it was before, or about the same?
#39
First off, I'm stunned that you snapped that tool off. Second, glad to hear that you got everything squared away.
Can you elaborate on your impressions with the damper? Specifically:
1. Do you notice any difference in throttle response now that you have a couple of extra pounds on the drivetrain? My guess is "probably not," since you still have your stock 50 lb flywheel.
2. This may be a hard question to answer since your most recent driving impressions feature a failing LS2 pulley, but in your opinion, is the car running smoother than it was before, or about the same?
Can you elaborate on your impressions with the damper? Specifically:
1. Do you notice any difference in throttle response now that you have a couple of extra pounds on the drivetrain? My guess is "probably not," since you still have your stock 50 lb flywheel.
2. This may be a hard question to answer since your most recent driving impressions feature a failing LS2 pulley, but in your opinion, is the car running smoother than it was before, or about the same?
1. Throttle response-- I actually feel slightly better throttle response than I had before. The revs drop markedly faster too, as I would expect would happen with a lighter flywheel. I am trying to compare it to how it was when I first bought the car, and the pulley wasn't crapped out, and yes, I do believe the throttle response is better. Not sure why, but there you go.
2. Smoother? Yes, definitely. The infamous 2K RPM vibration is almost totally gone. What's left is the healthy rumble of an LS motor, pretty much the same all through the rev range.
For those of you who may be consulting this thread to figure out this build, Jeff (LS mechanic) used red loctite on the ARP bolt and torqued to 250lb-ft. We didn't talk about it, he just told me later that's what he'd done.
#40
So glad your back on the road again....and i heard PSI know their stuff about LS projects...I was going to go to them for my tune. What a mistake....Any way. What about this note having to have an LS specific tool...A friend of mine has a Snap On Pulley kit...That should work, i would think
There may be some evidence in here for other LS2 guys attempting this in the future. I believe the crank snout on my car may be a fraction of an inch wider than on other cars, making pulling and pressing much harder than usual. If you have trouble taking your pulley off with a rented tool, then you can also assume you will have trouble putting it on, and need to have an LS-specific install tool.
There may be some evidence in here for other LS2 guys attempting this in the future. I believe the crank snout on my car may be a fraction of an inch wider than on other cars, making pulling and pressing much harder than usual. If you have trouble taking your pulley off with a rented tool, then you can also assume you will have trouble putting it on, and need to have an LS-specific install tool.