Passenger side very first bolt in front of the engine snapped off when removing the headers.Im pretty stuck because the bolt is completely flush/inside the head and not sticking out at all.Im removing the water pump for a change so I can get the heater hose out of the way for more room.Is their any specific way I could go about tackling this to remove it? Don't think an angle drill will fit either..

 

No two ways about it, you have to pull the head.

 

There's another way: pull the car, then when it's outta the way, there's a clear shot on that pesky bolt.

 

Only other way that might hurt your feelings doing it, use a cut off wheel with a thin disc to cut a straight line through the bolt deep enough to get a flathead screwdriver socket in there to turn it out.

 

Do you have a welder? Or is there a welding shop around? You could have someone come over and weld a nut to the broken bolt. The heat from welding will help it come loose. A friend of mine has a welding shop and a portable TIG he goes to the local dealerships and removes broken bolts all the time. You can do the same thing with a MIG welder. Don't pull the head.

 

Do not pull the head! Mine was 2 threads in and we welded this onto is and it came right out. Take your time and it works great.

 

LOL

 

Only problem is their is nothing sticking out,heres a pic:



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can it still be welded onto until their is something to grab onto?

 

There does not have to be something sticking out for a good welder to get in there and weld a head on to back it out. I know this doesnt help you where you are, but there is a local guy here that charges about $75-100 to come out an pull that out. Turned wrenches for 7 years and had him out numerous times. Success every time. Call around and find a mobile welder or call some local shops and ask who they use. Trust me, It is well worth what it costs to have some one come out. Saves on towing and u still have to pay for the labor.

Now here is very important info, DO NOT DRILL IT. The bolt has been heat cycled and you can not drill it straight, i dont care if you have diamond bits, you just cant keep it straight. o what happens is you screw up the threads in the heads and maybe even punch a hole throguh to the water jacket, seen it done on a 351 Cleveland in an older F-250.

 

ah man,i was going to attempt to drill it tonight too,was looking like my only option at this point.maybe i should hold off on that though...
i called my buddy who does welding im going to see if he can come by and check it out to see what he thinks.

 

Use an easy out kit or just leave it

 

Just weld a nut on it. I've done this for other people about 5 times. It has never failed, even on flush studs

 

If you can't get it welded and end up having to pull the head its a good opportunity for a top end refresh. Depending on how many miles you have on the motor it may be a good idea either way. New gaskets, and bolts would run roughly 250, and another 100-150 to have a machine shop pull the bolt and deck the heads. Get some arp header studs and never have this issue again.

 

we did this on a 4.0 jeep back in the day, used a dremmel to cut a slot in the bolt

 

Weld it ! Works like a charm....

 

i had the machine shop pull one for me for 35 bones

 

An easy out will almost always break, and then you're in deep deep ****. My dad was a machinist, and I have never heard more bitching than when he got ahold of one someone broke one of those off in. They're too damn brittle and unless you keep em perfectly straight... Snap! The welding thing almost always works. My dad did it for me hundreds of times at the shop I work at.

 

A head shop did mine for $20, but i had to take them the head. Mine was the very rear bolt on the passenger side. You're lucky it's the front bolt. You can likely get it off while still mounted in the car.

 

Yea,already have the ARP header stud kit waiting for install.
Its still sitting there,just been busy w work and life,debating on what to do with it.
I'm tempted to just pull the head off and get it fixed at a machine shop,but then ill be wanting to drop more money into it(pull other head,get some work done etc).
Wanting to just drill and do an easy-out but now you guys are making me second guess that..

 

Just my 2 cents: don't use an easy out. Tried this before on LT1 heads..didn't work

dremel a slit and use a good flat head, or have it welded and backed out