Sneakin Deacon

Are the rears as bad as 10 bolts? I'm purchasing an 06 in the next couple days, the 8.8 conversion and a tire will be my first more if that's the case.

Also I haven't seen anything, but do I need to pull the stabilitrak fuse as well...I know it helped slightly in my TBSS.

I was just hoping these cars would do 1.80's out of the box...not 2.0+

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

You need to spend a little more time researching this car. Out of the box it is terrible from a dig and really not a drag racing vehicle. If you want a drag car either the 8.8 or gforce 9 inch are a must. The stock diff can/will shatter in a hard launch due to wheel hop

CTSV_510

iTrader: (1)

^^what he said

I got consistent 2.0's launching from idle, as soon as I tried a harder launch from 2500 rpms I wheel hopped and broke an axle cv joint. I have no wheel hop fixes, so that's pretty much what you can expect unless you build the rear end.

Isaacs

iTrader: (1)

Expect to replace the axles and diff on a regular basis or go ahead and make plans on a 8.8 or 9" swap.

Sneakin Deacon

It's more a dd for me, but would like to beat it on the track a couple times.

VeryWhiteDevil

iTrader: (9)

I beat on mine. I have DSS 1000hp axles only and frequent the dragstrip every chance I get. have a full kars kit III sitting on the floor of the garage.

I am pretty sure one of the fixes for shattering rears is when it starts to hop, let off the gas!

I definitely believe the axles help the harmonics and keep the hop away. Not 100% though.

kl2onik

iTrader: (3)

No way to really describe it but I assure you the first time you launch it you will see what all these comments are about. This car is a beast at 2nd, 3rd, 4thgear pulls but off a dig launching it makes you cringe...you can feel the pain your car is in!!!

DougNuts

iTrader: (1)

These cars don't take kindly to being beat on from a stop. They are heavy GT cars and require lots of $$ to truly beat on from a stop.

lollygagger8

iTrader: (7)

Just because you let off the gas, it doesn't make it stop hopping. I was about 5k when my first stock diff started hopping, let off, but it was too late. Kapow!! Looked underneath and there goes the fluid.

Next stop was a 9".

Sneakin Deacon

I'm debating what to do now...tbss and built tranny, or this and built rear end...I mean the 8.8 is pretty damn solid, no one has been having issues at 450rwhp right?

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

the stock diffs are junk.. i broke my original,,then two cv's (one with a stock axle and one with a g-force) and cracked a gen4 diff. when i pulled the gen4 i found the back lash was almost triple the max. the case is still in one peice but deff wore the pinion out. im pushing close to 500whp.

even from a second gear pull the rears after some time just cant take it. even with no hop. the gforce axles took about 80% of the hop away but still broke.

Sneakin Deacon

So the cv is the week point once the rear is addressed?

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

its the entire thing.. the early diffs grenade!! with the gen 4 diff the cv's break. it just goes down the line. thats why i bought the 8.8 kit with the race outter CV's as well.. im not taking anymore chances

CTSV_510

iTrader: (1)

Definitely a weak link back there...I have a gen 4 diff in my car and the wheel hop at the track last weekend killed a cv but left the diff intact. I'm at 450 rwhp and I'm sure it was just going to be one or the other and I got lucky.

shadyLS6

the cast AL case is the weakest link then CVs inner/outer then center drive shaft bearing.. the area around the pinnion is the weakest and the pinion slop is built in to absorb some of the force..

even the Solstice diff is stonger than a stock ctsv1

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

hmmm i never thought the soltice diff was iron..i always thought they were the same but with diff gears..unless that ones just painted to look like iron

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

yup just like i thought, its the same junk just painted

Sneakin Deacon

Okay that's a little better, for 4600 it was sounding like I was still going to be breaking things back there...

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

4600 is for the cobra aluminum diff.. i picked up an iron diff. ill be 33-3400 into the swap, all said and done with me building and setting up the diff.

Skidmarcx

Even with the new diff setup you'll have to address cradle ocsillation