Catch Can
10-08-2012, 09:31 AM
#22
If you have a better idea, try stating it instead of operating under your "all s**t no substance" (roughly paraphrased) modus operandi.
The purpose of a PCV return line is to route [airborne] blow-by contaminants back into the combustion chamber so that they doesn't settle into the oil. I assume (and this may be where I'm wrong) that the molecularized oil that gets pulled through the line along with those byproducts mixes with a percentage of them and that mix gets trapped within the catch can.
Those are surplus first generation Mike Norris catch cans. By the way, the contents of that cup are definitely more than 1/4 NOT oil. Is it possible to get coolant in the catch can without cracking the engine block?
The purpose of a PCV return line is to route [airborne] blow-by contaminants back into the combustion chamber so that they doesn't settle into the oil. I assume (and this may be where I'm wrong) that the molecularized oil that gets pulled through the line along with those byproducts mixes with a percentage of them and that mix gets trapped within the catch can.
Those are surplus first generation Mike Norris catch cans. By the way, the contents of that cup are definitely more than 1/4 NOT oil. Is it possible to get coolant in the catch can without cracking the engine block?
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 10-08-2012 at 09:37 AM.
10-08-2012, 10:02 AM
#23
Elite Engineering catch can here.....DO IT.
http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/
10-08-2012, 10:46 AM
#24
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PCV is Positive Crankcase Ventilation - this is simply to relieve the vapor pressure of any oil and blowby in the crank case so it does not push out through the valve covers / oil pan (and any other low pressure oil seal).
Routing it back into the intake is an evaporative emissions requirement - like having a fuel tank cap that seals (IE the CEL lights up the the cap is not on tight).
All you are doing is taking aerosolized or gaseous hydrocarbons (and a small amount of spent exhaust gases) and routing it back into your intake.
On an N/A vehicle, won't hurt it.
Force fed vehicles with a CAC - will hurt performance as you coat the inside of the heat exchanger, reducing the heat transfer capabilities.
Routing it back into the intake is an evaporative emissions requirement - like having a fuel tank cap that seals (IE the CEL lights up the the cap is not on tight).
All you are doing is taking aerosolized or gaseous hydrocarbons (and a small amount of spent exhaust gases) and routing it back into your intake.
On an N/A vehicle, won't hurt it.
Force fed vehicles with a CAC - will hurt performance as you coat the inside of the heat exchanger, reducing the heat transfer capabilities.
10-08-2012, 10:48 AM
#25
Looks like somebody has a blown head gasket, or even worse a cracked block...unless they fill the car with chocolate milk.
Elite Engineering catch can here.....DO IT.
http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/
Elite Engineering catch can here.....DO IT.
http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/
10-08-2012, 11:11 AM
#26
relax fuzzy nuts its internet banter
I have never seen that much blow by oil contamination from just normal condensation. i would guess one of the gaskets is weeping in high load situations. at least that's what happened to my friends 1.8t.. what makes you say its just condensation?
I have never seen that much blow by oil contamination from just normal condensation. i would guess one of the gaskets is weeping in high load situations. at least that's what happened to my friends 1.8t.. what makes you say its just condensation?
10-08-2012, 01:13 PM
#28
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05-07-2013, 02:44 PM
#30
Sd parts has the Norris catch cheaper then the mike norris site. picekd one up a year or so ago. works much better then the Home depot **** i had on it before and looks bad ***
http://sdparts.com/taxonomy/term/11153/all
http://sdparts.com/taxonomy/term/11153/all
05-07-2013, 02:54 PM
#31
Give them a call--the guy was very helpful. I think he might have more than one kind of bracket.
05-10-2013, 10:28 AM
#33
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05-10-2013, 10:35 AM
#34
How I ran my catch can. [IMG]
[/IMG]
That pictures really shows how the salt and chemicals of upstate NY winter roads ***** with your car.
Any way, Mike Norris catch can and I drilled and tapped for an extra brab fitting below the original, then just capped off the TB port. So both the valley and valve cover are going to the catch can before routing back into the manifold.
[/IMG]That pictures really shows how the salt and chemicals of upstate NY winter roads ***** with your car.
Any way, Mike Norris catch can and I drilled and tapped for an extra brab fitting below the original, then just capped off the TB port. So both the valley and valve cover are going to the catch can before routing back into the manifold.
05-10-2013, 12:53 PM
#35
There's an easy fix for that engine bay crud. Meguiar's sells a good long handled, soft-bristled brush. Autozone/Advanced Auto both sell cans of self-emulsifying engine degreaser. Buy one of each. Then spray down the engine bay, wait 10 minutes, scrub for 2-5 minutes, and rinse. Enjoy your squeaky clean engine bay.
05-10-2013, 03:49 PM
#37
No issues on my end. They say not to spray it on electrical equipment, but I've soaked electrical equipment (coil packs, the battery, the alternator) with that stuff and I don't have any sort of corrosion or degradation. Maybe it's because I rinse everything off well.
05-27-2013, 12:37 PM
#40