FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Figured I'd give this thread a nudge to see how you guys are doing. I wanted to do my bushings and POR-15 underbody coating today, but it's too cold.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

I would like to see the first post updated on what exactly came with an 8.8 31 spline posi. Also while the explorers had an 8.8 in it the housings are way different. They only have one front flange. I have searched the world over for a junk yard 31 spline posi and found nada.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Update:

If you around Houston tonight and want to see what we have built then come up to K1 Speed on 290.

I am bringing the housing and Gulf is bringing the brackets, just for ***** and giggles.

Here are the applications for both 28 and 31, front and rear:

Aviator: 2003 - 2005 (Rear)
B3000: 1991 - 2002 (Rear)
B4000: 1991 - 2002 (Rear)
Bronco: 1987 - 1996 (Rear)
Capri: 1986 - 1986 (Rear)
Cougar: 1988 - 1996 (Rear)
Crown Victoria: 1992 - 2006 (Rear)
E150: 1983 - 2006 (Rear)
E250: 1983 - 1998 (Rear)
Expedition: 1997 - 2003 (Front)
Expedition: 1997 - 2003 (Rear)
Explorer: 1990 - 2003 (Rear)
F150: 1959 - 1987 (Rear)
F150: 1983 - 2006 (Rear)
F150: 1997 - 2006 (Front)
F250: 1997 - 1999 (Front)
Mark LT: 2006 - 2006 (Front)
Mark VI: 1980 - 1983 (Rear)
Mustang: 1986 - 2005 (Rear)
Navigator: 1998 - 2005 (Front)
Navigator: 1998 - 2006 (Rear)
Ranger: 1990 - 2005 (Rear)
Thunderbird: 1987 - 1995 (Rear)
Town Car: 1981 - 2005 (Rear)


I am still researching the 31 spline only, but until I get a definite answer; Cobra.

IH8FORD

iTrader: (6)

I have an aluminum mark VII 8.8 irs. from what I read it the unit has 28 spline diff. Can I just put a 31 spline diff in it or will that not work?

54inches

iTrader: (4)

It won't work, just give it to me.

Yeah, That will work!

IH8FORD

iTrader: (6)

Thanks. And great thread cant wait to get started on my swap.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

You are most welcome!

This thread was made for you and everyone esle, so we could help the community!

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Well, I know everyone has been waiting on an update.

The last 3 weeks has been crazy at work for Gulf and myself. We have barely spoken/texted at all.

We have had some normal setbacks; one being, a local diff guru who is GREAT threw us a financial curve.

Soooo, I just dropped some serious coin, for me anyways, and bought all of the appropriate tools to start setting up carriers & gears....

I am going to build a table top fixture based on the 8.8 so I can start building these myself......

I also just scored a complete Solid Axle 8.8 with a 31 spline posi in it for $60; I just need a case and cover now, but that is in the works as well....

We should have two units completed in the next month or so.

Neither will be mine as I am out of money now for the halfshafts, rebuild kit for the 8.8 and the Driveshaft adapter.

Oh well, back to work! lol

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

What kind of financial curve?

54inches

iTrader: (4)

They just quoted us a good price for gear setup and then when I got there, they jumped it another $100 plus some additional setup fees....No worries, I will just stop promoting them.

GulfM3

iTrader: (14)

I missed it in your text, but I don't think that carrier going to work. Solid axle carriers don't have the groove for the C clip that holds in the axle stub.

Can't wait to get this thing in my car already.

On a side note, Andy with Squash performance emailed me and has shipped the prototype double pumper fuel setup, using a 2010 Camaro fuel bucket. Keeps all stock options, including siphon from the driver side and fuel level sensor. Should support ~800 on E85 and ~1000 on regular fuel.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

The carrier will work.. I used one out of an explorer solid rear. The clips lock on the inside of the spider gears. Only down fall is u have to remove the clips before u try to get the stub back out.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

can you elaborate on this? take the c=clip off of the cv axel stub? If it clicks in it is designed to click out no? I have read alot of different topicks on this and the solid axel carrier is the same and should work fine. If it does not work I would think you would just have to change the side and spider gears to the IRS ones. The carrier itself is def the same.

Haha I need to know this as I just took out an explorer carrier yesterday myself!

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

It shouldn't cost more than $150 to rebuild the diff and set up the gears. Someone who does that stuff all the time should be able to do it in a 1 1/2 hours. All you need is a good impact to crush the crush sleeve.

I also have a extra aluminum diff and stock axles from a Lincoln and a complete CTS-V rear cradle so if I can help let me know. I can send you some parts.

DMM

How cute...maybe the two of you can set aside some time next weekend for a mani/pedi together or some ****...hahahaha

*******! Give us the full rundown on this when you get everything in hand if you could. I'm interested like everyone else. Any idea of a price range?

You guys are doing a hell of a job! Keep up the good work!

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Sweet! Couldn't I just leave the C-clips out, I mean the axles are already captured?

That deos suck.....total disassembly....

Not completely true...There are several specialty tools that make the install easier and more precise. An impact is useful, but it is better to use a dialed torque wrench. and a dial indicator to get the runout exact.
Here is what I have found as far as pricing:

Rebuild kit is about $100 at the most.
Oil is about $20-$30....
so they have to charge more than $20-$30 for labor....

Let me know how much you want for the Housing and Cover.

Thanks bud!

We are too busy for that, but when we aren't, you can damn welll bet, we will be treating ourselves to a SPA DAY!

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

Not total disassembly but u do have to remove the cover. Problem being the clips that come on the dss axles tend to bend pretty easily. So trying to pop the stub out tends to distort them. What I did was installed the inner stubs in the diff, got it in the car and bolted the axles to the stubs.

By the way all the 8.8 31 spline spiders are the same for both solid and irs! Only time they are different is if it open or LSD.

Schitzo

iTrader: (6)

Smart move rebuilding the units yourself. Ford calls for a case spreader but it is not absolutely necessary. You can however, make one yourself pretty easily (see the link below).
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...g-fixture.html

If you are using OEM Ford gears, be aware they are now made by Face Hobbing so adjusting the pattern is a little bit different than the older gears or aftermarket gears. These are what I used for reference when adjusting the pattern
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5717.pdf
http://departments.weber.edu/automot...rpretation.pdf

Finally, I highly recommend going with a solid pinion spacer in place of the crush collar. I went with the kit made by Yukon. Ratech also makes one.

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

Labor is labor and parts are always seperate. You do not use a torque wrench to crush the sleeve as the number that it takes is different in every case. You have variables in play like friction between the nut and washer and differences in crush sleeves themselves. If you do those every day you can do them fast. As far as run out goes the crush sleeve has nothing to do with it, runout is the amount of difference in the ring gear from center to several points around its diameter and has nothing to do with how you torque the pinion nut. Preload is what you are doing there and as tight as you have to get it (300+ FT LBS) even with a impact you aren't moving it much.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

So if the gears are the same between irs and solid then the axel should pop in and out like a cv is designed to? Maybe call the DSS and talk to them about this? I will see what they say. I just feel like it should work as designed is all.