Schitzo

iTrader: (6)

Read my posts in the link below. Should keep you from FN hanging further.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=24441181#post24441181

GulfM3

iTrader: (14)

I called RCV before ordering from DSS. RCV is either no longer making the stubs or just too busy to mess with it, because the turned me to DSS.

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

Creative Steel has $600 off their complete kit right now, guess someone is watching. Also the basic brackets are now $500.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

They've had $600 off their kit and $100 off their bracket since approximately the start of the serious DIY 8.8 discussion, which dates back to earlier this summer (not the same thread). Coincidence? I don't know.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Not sure if this has been said here before (at least I have not read it) but it is a good idea to drill/tap and install a 3/8 NPT plug into the bottom of the 8.8 housing for these cars. Most of the rear covers do not come with a drain plug, just a fill, and the CS just comes with optional cooler ports. So in order to drain the fluid and change it will require you to remove the pumpkin from the car and either take off the rear cover or stand it up and drain it from either of the holes on the rear cover. So unless you would like to have to remove your CV's and unbolt the drive shaft, then the rear end just to change fluid by all means. And yes, I thought of this after having mine completely installed

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

You could prob dril and tap it in the car couldnt you?

jmargo

iTrader: (10)

I just suck out the oil with a cheap fluid pump.

Dmax/04V

vacuum pump and patience should do the trick.

GulfM3

iTrader: (14)

Little update back on topic, I found a DS from a 06 mustang GT at the local junk yard for cheap. One way or another I'll figure out how to use the stock CTS-V drive shaft with parts from the Mustang driveshaft for a very cheap solution.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

i used a mac cover that has a drain port, but before that i drilled and tapped the very bottom of the cover itself (stock) and used a large set screw as a drain plug.. take a few minutes for all the oil to drain out of the small hole but it works just fine.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, I guess. I am not sure why you are being a dick as I was just messing with you bud.

I guess you were kidding?

Like mentioned, I that has been like that for about 9 months. It has nothing to do with us, but I am sure it has to do with other factors.

Thanks for the reminder brother. Gulf and I have talked about it and I meant to do it when I was blasting his diff and cover, but we never talked about it.

I prefer the drain hole method to the suction method as the metal usually falls to the metal and the drain location, SHOULD remove it.

Adding to the top post. Location will be updated, when I install the gears in the next week or so.

Gulf, are the parts back from Powdercoat?

54inches

iTrader: (4)

These stubs were from RCV.

Schitzo

iTrader: (6)

can dish not take! I was kidding as well but I guess I should have added one of these

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

I would not recommend it, you'd be drilling into it and pushing metal shavings into your rear end. With no effective method to ensuring you get all the shavings out, I would not do it in the car.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

That doesn't make sense, unless you're assuming that the thing is assembled while you're tapping it.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

"in the car" not sure who installs the differential in the car with it not being assembled?

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

I have put helicoils in aluminum heads while on the car. Just use grease on the tap. While drilling keep blowing the chips out. I can't imagine you would get more than a few slivers of aluminum in there. Just wash it out with brake parts cleaner. A couple of small aluminum shavings wouldnt kill it anyway people worry way too much.

jmargo

iTrader: (10)

This ^^^
Its a pretty common way to drill and tap on the vehicle. Lots of thick grease to catch the majority then flush it with old fluid because any stragglers will be right by the hole.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

while that may be, thats no guarantee you are getting them all, and on the heads there is nothing you are drilling or tapping that can go into the crankcase to damage bearings (unless you're under the valve covers) everything else either goes into coolant (who cares), intake (no no), or exhuast (who cares). Using a blow gun in this situation would only blow shavings into the housing where they should not be. Also do you apply grease to the drill bit? I dont see that catching many shavings. Also alot of the guys here are using cast iron housings not aluminum. Then there is using gear oil as a flushing fluid, which I can only imagine is very effective in doing so. It is not worth the risk IMO. Too much hassle if something did go wrong, and $. With all that said, yes it could be done. I however will not be doing it.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

No worries at all brother. Thanks for our help. PM me what you spent on the inners.

Agree 100%, but grease on a tap DOES work wonders.

I attached a pdf graph showing MPH v. RPMs using 3.31s, 3.55s & 3.73s.

Someone had mentioned that our gear was too deep for our tires.

I tend to disagree. The Final drive ratio is a little low in first gear as optimum for Drag Racing is around 12.0-12.5 IIRC.

I know, I know, these are not drag racing vehicles.....lol

Anyways, 275s fit fine and that is ALOT of tire.

For all around driving, 3.55s look really good and 3.31s look great too.