shadyLS6

lots of extensions and a universal.. check lolly's thread on the monster clutch install.. good luck

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

Unbolt the cross member take drive shaft out and let weight of transmission pull engine back as you lower the jack. I actually have a 3 1/2 foot extension with a swivel impact socket I use. If you let the engine tilt back you can get the bolt.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Use a gearwrench and remove the windshield wiper assembly if you want space.

If the transmission is disconnected from the driveshaft, lower the thing and use long extensions and a 15mm socket.

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

I didn't have to remove the wiper assembly but I did remove the trash can lid. I can't recall if it made a difference..

+1000 on the gear wrench.

01_SuperSlow

iTrader: (7)

I got the top bellhousing bolt from the top behind the intake manifold with a gearwrench. Piece of cake if you do it that way.

01_SuperSlow

iTrader: (7)

If he's asking about the bellhousing bolt, I hope both the transmission and driveshaft are off the car

Stone17

iTrader: (3)

I gave up on the bellhousing right now. All I have left is the one 12 o'clock bolt and 3 o'clock bolt.


This is all new to me.
I'm replace the isolator cup with bronze Upgraded cup.





Front case was leaking and I order a new shaft seal.
Im going to RTV the front case.

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

You couldn't lower the back of the transmission with the driveshaft and cross member in the car. I admit I haven't taken mine out YET but I have done countless other cars that way. On the older cars you typically remove the distributor cap and or unbolt fan shroud. It also helps that I have a nearly 4 foot extension that fits a 1/2inch drive impact and uses 3/8 drive impact sockets on the other end. One of the best tool investments I have ever made.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

What do you have to do to get at the isolator cup? I've been considering upgrading to a bronze cup. Hoping to tighten up the shifter a little bit.

Steve01SS

iTrader: (43)

Make sure that case is squeaky clean before resealing it. No RTV remnants, no fluid etc... must be dry. I'd let the good RTV set up overnight before refilling.

I have fought a rear case leak twice in my C5 T56.

MyFirstLS1

iTrader: (8)

Not sure if you removed the pilot bearing but you may want to get the right tool.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

I learned that the hard way on my C5, detroyed the pilot bearing and ended up pushing needles and shrapnel into the motor through the plug behind the pilot bearing and hole in the crank.

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

You can't just use grease and a old input shaft to get the pilot bearing out? I had no idea the crank was hollow and there is a plug in the bottom of the bore.

01_SuperSlow

iTrader: (7)

^^ I would definitely NOT do that.
There is a plug in the crank not very far behind the pilot bearing that could be pushed in and you would be royally screwed.
Get a blind hole puller. It was literally a 10 second job with it.

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

you have to pull the trans, remove the 4 bolts holding the shift rod assembly plate and there it is... I found that it was about the same as the plastic from a freeplay perspective but it was firmer/notchier/more precise. The plastic is actually very hard and durable. I accidentally stepped on it and it didn't break..

I got my cup from thegearbox.com


Stone17,

don't forget to lube the cup well before you seal it up...not even sure what you'd use... I added a tiny bit of lithium grease just so the shift rod would pop in and move smoothly when I reinstalled it..but added nothing more before I reinstalled my trans. I didn't realize this until I was completely done...and obviously wasn't going back in to check at that point. I was hoping the trans would throw fluid up in there and help, but I'm not sure if it does...seems like it's harder to shift than when I had it out of the car...then again my 'new' clutch (flywheel actually) is fubar, so maybe that's the issue.

regarding the bellhousing bolts, easiest way is just to reach back behind the engine to get the top one...it's pretty easy you just have to find it. For the other one you just snake your hand up there from the bottom and get it with a wrench. The second time around I think I got to them both with extensions and a swivel socket connector..

Stone17

iTrader: (3)

WOW. Thanks for all the help guys.

This morning I removed the last two bell housing bolts. I had to remove the clutch to get the bell housing out. Only took 2 hours to remove
Fly wheel fell on my hand but it's all good, some what.



Now I'm just waiting on money

If you must see what happen to my hand.
That thing is heavy. Slipped out of my hand.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y14.../WP_001478.jpg

Stone17

iTrader: (3)

Im going to lube the cup with Mobil 1 Synthetic grease.

This is the first picture I took when I removed the cover. It's look to get lube up.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Stone, sorry to hear about your hand. I've been there...not in exactly the same way, but when I was tightening my harmonic balancer bolt (requires 250 ft-lbs of torque) via a long torque wrench with a pipe over it, I was giving it everything I got when the socket slipped off the end and I whacked my funny bone on the fender so hard that my entire right arm went numb for about 2-3 minutes.

Does the cup pop right out by hand, or do I need to acquire special tools and/or instructions to get it out?

Stone17

iTrader: (3)

My cup was on the shifter lever.

Like this.

01_SuperSlow

iTrader: (7)

Mine was inside its spot in the tranny, slid right out with finger pressure.