Black Friday/Cyber Sales?
11-22-2012, 08:41 AM
#61
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Is there really any reason not to go with the 95A for everything? Fuzzy, you seem to be very knowledgeable in this area (not saying other aren't!). What do you currently have for your cradle? What are you thinking for the cradle? (you hadn't decided). In terms of ride comfort, how much difference is there really between the 95A and the 80A? My car is my DD, but I'm use to driving mustangs and lifted trucks so I don't think a "firmer" ride will scare me away, especially if the handling capabilities of the car are enhanced.
The rear trailing arm bushings will work with aftermarket arms right? (ie: aftermarket arms dont require specific bushings)
Also, what do you guys think about the trans-mount insert vs. a complete new trans mount?
The rear trailing arm bushings will work with aftermarket arms right? (ie: aftermarket arms dont require specific bushings)
Also, what do you guys think about the trans-mount insert vs. a complete new trans mount?
Last edited by I8URSVT; 11-22-2012 at 08:46 AM.
11-22-2012, 09:53 AM
#62
I8URSVT, I just ordered red subframe and differential bushings.
I already have the 95A trailing arm bushings from TurninConcepts, the solid steel Ballistic Fabrication ball joints on the Killernoodle trailing arms, and the 87A Creative Steel differential bushing. Zero vibration gain from any of those modifications.
Where you see an immediate increase in vibration is when you install stiffer bushings on a large prime mover like your motor or transmission. Those are the only two places where I would recommend avoiding 95A bushings if you want a nice, smooth ride. Even with 80-87A motor mounts, you'll feel a difference in structure borne vibration over 60A rubber.
Couple of assorted notes:
- I would stay away from the Creative Steel transmission mount because it's simply too hard. Most people (myself included) contemplated removing our 80A Revshift transmission inserts because of the initial surge in vibration. Fortunately, that additional vibration goes away after several weeks as either (I'm still not sure which) the OEM rubber or the Revshift poly settles into the new configuration.
That said, if your transmission mount is too broken to accept the Revshift insert, I'd personally buy the Creative Steel part instead of buying the borked GM transmission mount again.
- The trailing arm bushings will work with any aftermarket trailing arm (BMR or Killernoodle). They're inserted into the lower control arm and simply replace your crappy, eroding rubber bushing. In other words, they use the stock bolt and won't influence your ability to upgrade your trailing arms later.
- Remember that softer mounts are more responsive to lower frequency vibration (e.g. motor and transmission RPM) than harder mounts, which are only responsive to higher frequency vibration but do not deflect as much under load.
Therefore, to properly select a mount, you need to consider the frequency of the energy being injected into the mount. Motor mounts and transmission mounts are directly attached to relatively low frequency sources of vibration. As a result, they need to be softer. Conversely, the subframe is subjected to extremely high frequency energy (e.g. texture of asphalt underneath tires) and can therefore be made much stiffer without introducing additional vibration into the cabin.
I already have the 95A trailing arm bushings from TurninConcepts, the solid steel Ballistic Fabrication ball joints on the Killernoodle trailing arms, and the 87A Creative Steel differential bushing. Zero vibration gain from any of those modifications.
Where you see an immediate increase in vibration is when you install stiffer bushings on a large prime mover like your motor or transmission. Those are the only two places where I would recommend avoiding 95A bushings if you want a nice, smooth ride. Even with 80-87A motor mounts, you'll feel a difference in structure borne vibration over 60A rubber.
Couple of assorted notes:
- I would stay away from the Creative Steel transmission mount because it's simply too hard. Most people (myself included) contemplated removing our 80A Revshift transmission inserts because of the initial surge in vibration. Fortunately, that additional vibration goes away after several weeks as either (I'm still not sure which) the OEM rubber or the Revshift poly settles into the new configuration.
That said, if your transmission mount is too broken to accept the Revshift insert, I'd personally buy the Creative Steel part instead of buying the borked GM transmission mount again.
- The trailing arm bushings will work with any aftermarket trailing arm (BMR or Killernoodle). They're inserted into the lower control arm and simply replace your crappy, eroding rubber bushing. In other words, they use the stock bolt and won't influence your ability to upgrade your trailing arms later.
- Remember that softer mounts are more responsive to lower frequency vibration (e.g. motor and transmission RPM) than harder mounts, which are only responsive to higher frequency vibration but do not deflect as much under load.
Therefore, to properly select a mount, you need to consider the frequency of the energy being injected into the mount. Motor mounts and transmission mounts are directly attached to relatively low frequency sources of vibration. As a result, they need to be softer. Conversely, the subframe is subjected to extremely high frequency energy (e.g. texture of asphalt underneath tires) and can therefore be made much stiffer without introducing additional vibration into the cabin.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 11-22-2012 at 10:34 AM.
11-22-2012, 10:16 AM
#63
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Alradco is having a Black Friday/Turkey Day sale until Sunday. $439 for the aluminum CTS-V radiator
http://alradco.com/index.php?page=sh...chk=1&Itemid=1
http://alradco.com/index.php?page=sh...chk=1&Itemid=1
11-22-2012, 11:40 AM
#65
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I8URSVT, I just ordered red subframe and differential bushings.
I already have the 95A trailing arm bushings from TurninConcepts, the solid steel Ballistic Fabrication ball joints on the Killernoodle trailing arms, and the 87A Creative Steel differential bushing. Zero vibration gain from any of those modifications.
Where you see an immediate increase in vibration is when you install stiffer bushings on a large prime mover like your motor or transmission. Those are the only two places where I would recommend avoiding 95A bushings if you want a nice, smooth ride. Even with 80-87A motor mounts, you'll feel a difference in structure borne vibration over 60A rubber.
Couple of assorted notes:
- I would stay away from the Creative Steel transmission mount because it's simply too hard. Most people (myself included) contemplated removing our 80A Revshift transmission inserts because of the initial surge in vibration. Fortunately, that additional vibration goes away after several weeks as either (I'm still not sure which) the OEM rubber or the Revshift poly settles into the new configuration.
That said, if your transmission mount is too broken to accept the Revshift insert, I'd personally buy the Creative Steel part instead of buying the borked GM transmission mount again.
- The trailing arm bushings will work with any aftermarket trailing arm (BMR or Killernoodle). They're inserted into the lower control arm and simply replace your crappy, eroding rubber bushing. In other words, they use the stock bolt and won't influence your ability to upgrade your trailing arms later.
- Remember that softer mounts are more responsive to lower frequency vibration (e.g. motor and transmission RPM) than harder mounts, which are only responsive to higher frequency vibration but do not deflect as much under load.
Therefore, to properly select a mount, you need to consider the frequency of the energy being injected into the mount. Motor mounts and transmission mounts are directly attached to relatively low frequency sources of vibration. As a result, they need to be softer. Conversely, the subframe is subjected to extremely high frequency energy (e.g. texture of asphalt underneath tires) and can therefore be made much stiffer without introducing additional vibration into the cabin.
I already have the 95A trailing arm bushings from TurninConcepts, the solid steel Ballistic Fabrication ball joints on the Killernoodle trailing arms, and the 87A Creative Steel differential bushing. Zero vibration gain from any of those modifications.
Where you see an immediate increase in vibration is when you install stiffer bushings on a large prime mover like your motor or transmission. Those are the only two places where I would recommend avoiding 95A bushings if you want a nice, smooth ride. Even with 80-87A motor mounts, you'll feel a difference in structure borne vibration over 60A rubber.
Couple of assorted notes:
- I would stay away from the Creative Steel transmission mount because it's simply too hard. Most people (myself included) contemplated removing our 80A Revshift transmission inserts because of the initial surge in vibration. Fortunately, that additional vibration goes away after several weeks as either (I'm still not sure which) the OEM rubber or the Revshift poly settles into the new configuration.
That said, if your transmission mount is too broken to accept the Revshift insert, I'd personally buy the Creative Steel part instead of buying the borked GM transmission mount again.
- The trailing arm bushings will work with any aftermarket trailing arm (BMR or Killernoodle). They're inserted into the lower control arm and simply replace your crappy, eroding rubber bushing. In other words, they use the stock bolt and won't influence your ability to upgrade your trailing arms later.
- Remember that softer mounts are more responsive to lower frequency vibration (e.g. motor and transmission RPM) than harder mounts, which are only responsive to higher frequency vibration but do not deflect as much under load.
Therefore, to properly select a mount, you need to consider the frequency of the energy being injected into the mount. Motor mounts and transmission mounts are directly attached to relatively low frequency sources of vibration. As a result, they need to be softer. Conversely, the subframe is subjected to extremely high frequency energy (e.g. texture of asphalt underneath tires) and can therefore be made much stiffer without introducing additional vibration into the cabin.
based on that, I'm going to go with the Red for diff mount, cradle and trailing arm bushings. The factory trans mount looks good, so i'm gona do the mount insert (blue). The car has 51k miles on it, and the motor mounts were replaced under warranty ~8k miles ago, so I'm going to hold off on motor mounts until I do long-tubes hopefully in the spring.
happy thanksgiving all!
11-22-2012, 11:47 AM
#66
Alradco is having a Black Friday/Turkey Day sale until Sunday. $439 for the aluminum CTS-V radiator
http://alradco.com/index.php?page=sh...chk=1&Itemid=1
http://alradco.com/index.php?page=sh...chk=1&Itemid=1
11-24-2012, 01:34 PM
#70
Advance Auto Parts is taking 20% off sitewide with coupon code NV24 [Exp 11/24]. Plus, receive a coupon for $50 off $100 with purchase of $100 or more. In-store pickup is available for most products, and orders over $75 ship free
