REVSHIFT Rear Cradle Busings
11-26-2012, 08:31 AM
#62
If your goal is to eliminate all the slop in the stock driveline then yes this definitely helps. how noticeable is it? I would say not super noticeable car seems to react a little quicker to throttle inputs but that could be placebo. If you do end up upgrading the whole rear end you can always resell it.
11-26-2012, 10:36 AM
#63
If your goal is to eliminate all the slop in the stock driveline then yes this definitely helps. how noticeable is it? I would say not super noticeable car seems to react a little quicker to throttle inputs but that could be placebo. If you do end up upgrading the whole rear end you can always resell it.
11-26-2012, 11:45 AM
#64
Will it cure that wind-up boom we get sometimes? You know, when you feather the throttle from a start, manage NOT to wheelhop, figure you've got great traction, then stomp on it. Every now and again I'll get a boom. I figured it was something rubberized in the driveshaft twisting up then releasing.
11-26-2012, 12:20 PM
#65
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If your goal is to eliminate all the slop in the stock driveline then yes this definitely helps. how noticeable is it? I would say not super noticeable car seems to react a little quicker to throttle inputs but that could be placebo. If you do end up upgrading the whole rear end you can always resell it.
11-26-2012, 12:55 PM
#66
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11-26-2012, 01:49 PM
#68
They posted up the instructions online: https://www.revshift.com/bushinginstallation.php
11-26-2012, 01:57 PM
#69
Ya when the rear cradle is out of the car of course it is easy. they should do a typical writeup where one has to work in cramped spaces to make sure you still can get the same access to the mounting spots for the bushings. Also bushing removal would be a good one to add in their instructions..
11-26-2012, 02:16 PM
#70
Ya when the rear cradle is out of the car of course it is easy. they should do a typical writeup where one has to work in cramped spaces to make sure you still can get the same access to the mounting spots for the bushings. Also bushing removal would be a good one to add in their instructions..
11-26-2012, 03:48 PM
#72
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Dropping the rear cradle is actually child's play, remove the lower shock mounts (1 bolt each side) then 4 bolts holding the cradle to the body and viola!
Depending on how low you want to drop it you should also remove the drive shaft which can be a touch more challenging with 1 person but still not hard.
Depending on how low you want to drop it you should also remove the drive shaft which can be a touch more challenging with 1 person but still not hard.
11-26-2012, 08:49 PM
#74
They give you clear instructions on how to remove the bushings on the website-
Prior to installing the Revshift cradle bushings, the oem rubber bushings must be removed. This can be done a few different ways. A web search for "subframe bushing removal" will give you several results including pictures and how-to videos on the topic.
Ha, I cant wait till someone on here does it and does a write up.
Prior to installing the Revshift cradle bushings, the oem rubber bushings must be removed. This can be done a few different ways. A web search for "subframe bushing removal" will give you several results including pictures and how-to videos on the topic.
Ha, I cant wait till someone on here does it and does a write up.
11-26-2012, 08:58 PM
#75
They give you clear instructions on how to remove the bushings on the website-
Prior to installing the Revshift cradle bushings, the oem rubber bushings must be removed. This can be done a few different ways. A web search for "subframe bushing removal" will give you several results including pictures and how-to videos on the topic.
Ha, I cant wait till someone on here does it and does a write up.
Prior to installing the Revshift cradle bushings, the oem rubber bushings must be removed. This can be done a few different ways. A web search for "subframe bushing removal" will give you several results including pictures and how-to videos on the topic.
Ha, I cant wait till someone on here does it and does a write up.
11-26-2012, 09:04 PM
#76
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Too funny...A cousin of mine (Lawyer that graduated at the top of his class) had a futon that sat in his living room boxed up for 3 years b/c he said it was missing parts. I put it together on a bet while I was completely annihilated after getting back from the bar. It took me 20 minutes and I used my keys as a screwdriver, LOL!
11-26-2012, 10:57 PM
#77
Went ahead and pulled the trigger 15 minutes before the close of the sale. Picked up the MM's with heat jackets and the diff bushing both in 80A blue. Figured I'd hold up on the cradle bushings until I hear some reviews and how hard the install actually will be.
Glad I did, and I hope these motor mounts solve some of my dieseling on shutdown, etc.
Glad I did, and I hope these motor mounts solve some of my dieseling on shutdown, etc.
11-27-2012, 03:15 AM
#79
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I've done it both ways. Oxy-Acetylene Torch and Sawzall.
Sawzall through the rubber
Sawzall to cut through the sleeve (JUST the SLEEVE)
Fold sleeve in on itself
Repeat.
I like that way better because I'm not left tryna clean up burnt rubber chunks off the floor. Either way is effective. Pick your poison.
Sawzall through the rubber
Sawzall to cut through the sleeve (JUST the SLEEVE)
Fold sleeve in on itself
Repeat.
I like that way better because I'm not left tryna clean up burnt rubber chunks off the floor. Either way is effective. Pick your poison.
11-27-2012, 09:04 PM
#80
I will probably use the sawzall method but the car will sit all winter so I can wait on a writeup
I will be doing trailing arm bushings and motor mounts as well... I picked them all up
I will be doing trailing arm bushings and motor mounts as well... I picked them all up