T56 Bandaids Prepped - Ready to Rock!
11-25-2012, 02:11 AM
#21
I highly doubt that the stock shift rail is deflecting under torsion, it is really only loaded this way when you push it sideways for 1st/2nd or 5th/6th, this is a light force (x the shift moment arm length difference) if it was deflecting too much stock it would fail in fatigue eventually (unless they were right under the endurance limit for the steel, but it would be so easy/no cost for them to design around that) The most benefit may come from the U shaped end at the transmission, but once you have the brass bushings fitted there the clip fits in fairly tight that it shouldn't be giving up a whole lot there. I would just look at welding that end onto the stock bar.
- When I snap the shifter through the 2-3 and 4-5 transitions (where you move diagonally), I can feel *something* in the linkage rapidly flex and rebound as the shifter catches in the slot.
- When I row the shifter through the 1-2, 3-4, and 5-6 transitions, I can also feel a pulse traveling back and forth along the center linkage two or three times as the shifter slams home.
The effect may be subtle, but I consider it unacceptable. I expect the transmission to feel like a fine bolt action rifle...right now I feel like I'm reloading a Nerf gun.
For all I know, JB welding that pin and installing new bushings might solve most of the problem, but given the time required to drop the transmission and put it back, I'm hedging my bets and doing everything I can humanly do at the same time. Avoids rework.
I'm curious to see how you like the car with the addco front bar, it might bring the balance a little more towards neutral/stock (but less roll). But so far I like the Hotchkis setup seems like they added a little more rear bar than front which really controls the roll well all around but allows the rear to rotate a little easier/more predictable than stock
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 11-25-2012 at 02:28 AM.
11-25-2012, 10:43 AM
#22
I think once you get all your mods done you will find the shifter is a lot better (It may not be perfect, as I think some feel is going to be lost when you have a "remote shifter"). I did everything but JB weld the pin (I looked at mine and that felt as tight as i thought it would ever be) I don't know how much if effects things, but if you are trying to get it super firm (which it sounds like you have a sensitive feel for shifting) you may want to look for a B&M shifter that gets rid of the rubber isolation built into the stock shifter and has a spherical bearing as a pivot.
11-25-2012, 11:24 AM
#23
Once I replace everything else in the linkage with harder material (i.e.: Delrin, brass, steel, and PVC), I expect that I'll need to apply a single damper layer on the center linkage to counteract some of that vibration. Stay tuned for driving impressions.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 11-25-2012 at 01:49 PM.
11-25-2012, 12:29 PM
#24
I have the second generation Katech shifter, and I love it. It differs from the one-piece, first generation Katech shifter in that it's split into two pieces to include a 95A urethane isolation bushing between the two sections.
Once I replace everything else in the linkage with harder material (i.e.: Delrin, brass, steel, and PVC), I expect that I'll need to apply a single damper layer on the center linkage to counteract some of that. Stay tuned for driving impressions.
Once I replace everything else in the linkage with harder material (i.e.: Delrin, brass, steel, and PVC), I expect that I'll need to apply a single damper layer on the center linkage to counteract some of that. Stay tuned for driving impressions.
11-30-2012, 08:06 AM
#25
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So what was the deal with the shift linkage he sold you? I would think the round tube would be more ridged than a flat piece of steel in both torsional and push/pull.
11-30-2012, 08:39 AM
#26
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That stock shift link tubing is thin walled an hollow, I could see how the amount of mechanical leverage placed on it during hard shifts would cause some deflection.
12-02-2012, 02:09 PM
#28
There really is not a huge force on the shift linkage. You figure that you push on the shifter with maybe 20lb max, there is probably a 3-4x lever arm difference so you are looking at 100lb load. Really not that big.
06-22-2013, 11:58 AM
#30
Quick recap/update (pictures below):
Sorry for the lack of proper chronological documentation--it started raining and I just wanted to get the effing thing finished.
Fresh center shifter linkage bushing vs 7 year old bushing
View into T56 shifter assembly with neither the plastic or brass #95 cup installed. Note how clean the Redline oil mixture is, even after 10,000 miles.
Home Depot side front linkage rail bushings vs rubber OEM
UUC side rear linkage rail bushings (installed) versus Creative Steel
- As previously stated, the center linkage arm in my original picture is not required to eliminate 99% of shifter slop and would not fit anyway (was designed for the CTS).
- Based on the advice provided by the BMR shifter thread on LS1Tech, I subjected the center linkage pin to extreme scrutiny. On my shifter, the pin barely moved in its hole, so I did not feel that welding it in place was necessary.
- I replaced the plastic shifter cup with the #95 brass cup. Unless your cup is broken, it shouldn't have any effect on shifter slop. It is "merely" a durability upgrade.
- I also evaluated the "Anti-Venom" mod. After looking at the shifter detent assembly and experimenting with several copper crush washers, I came to the conclusion that any deviation from the stock design would result in very sloppy shifting characteristics. My detent ball and spring were in excellent condition. If yours is seized, I would buy a whole new assembly instead of just the ball and spring, since it's not obvious how to service the detent assembly. I looked and looked for instructions to no avail.
- The big two winners were the Home Depot mod and PISNUOFF's brass replacement bushing for the rear part of the center linkage arm. They really, really tightened up the shifter and added zero additional vibration. Advice: even though you only need four bushing pieces from Home Depot, buy 6-8. You'll find that their manufacturing tolerances result in some pieces that fit like a glove and others that are just a touch looser than you'd like. They're only like 48 cents apiece, so you can afford to buy a few extra.
. Also, having a press on hand (e.g. a $30 bench vise) is very useful when it comes to jamming the metal cores from the stock rubber bushings into the PVC Home Depot bushings. - The Creative Steel shifter bushings are terrible. Get the UUC ones from Luke @ Lindsay Cadillac. I bought a set of Creative Steel bushings in advance to compare to my old UUC bushings and was stunned at how poorly fabricated and soft the Creative Steel units were. They might actually be worse than stock!
Sorry for the lack of proper chronological documentation--it started raining and I just wanted to get the effing thing finished.
Fresh center shifter linkage bushing vs 7 year old bushing
View into T56 shifter assembly with neither the plastic or brass #95 cup installed. Note how clean the Redline oil mixture is, even after 10,000 miles.
Home Depot side front linkage rail bushings vs rubber OEM
UUC side rear linkage rail bushings (installed) versus Creative Steel
06-26-2013, 01:12 PM
#31
For those of you who still aren't sure which PVC reducers to get, I took a picture of them last night. It's the half-inch ones in the middle, they're on the electrical aisle where you'd find things like conduit and breaker boxes.
