Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

LS7 clutch ... What are the potential downsides?

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Old 12-02-2012, 08:03 AM
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That is good advice. I did not even consider that the CTS-V slave cylinder has a shorter travel. I have 2 LS7 slaves on order from O'reilly but they are apparently on a national back order, that has been 2 weeks so far. I will swap the one out in the Chevelle again and just sell the stock CTS-V one. As far as pressure plate torque I never heard that one before. It is critical to torque them evenly and in a criss cross pattern but once the plate contacts the flywheel I would think that over tightening them could only break or compromise the fasteners.
Old 12-02-2012, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Bowtie70SS
That is good advice. I did not even consider that the CTS-V slave cylinder has a shorter travel. I have 2 LS7 slaves on order from O'reilly but they are apparently on a national back order, that has been 2 weeks so far. I will swap the one out in the Chevelle again and just sell the stock CTS-V one. As far as pressure plate torque I never heard that one before. It is critical to torque them evenly and in a criss cross pattern but once the plate contacts the flywheel I would think that over tightening them could only break or compromise the fasteners.
If you don't want to overtorque the bolts in the name of sicence, try tightening the bolts on one side of the pressure plate and leave the others off. Half of the fingers will be at a different height than the others.
Old 12-02-2012, 08:32 AM
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Where is your pedal engaging at ? I just know that the monster had about 1/4 in. Shim with I don't know what slave in there set up (purchased car that way) and the pedal is at like I said 1/2-2/3 let off. The con VS the LS7 was the amount of force it took to push the pedal, not a deal breaker. Good info as always with trials and tribulations from the fuzz.
Old 12-02-2012, 08:48 AM
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The earliest hint of clutch engagement begins at 1/4 (letting you manage stop-and-go situations) and the clutch is significantly engaged at 1/2. Complete engagement is about 2/3-3/4 of total travel. The last 1/4 doesn't do much.

Did I mention that I changed my plans for the clutch to succeed my current LS7? For a while, I thought I was going to go with the $650 multi-friction F1 Racing setup that's rated for 625/578 crank ($450 if you have a flywheel), but I ran across a set of 800 and 1000 crank horsepower McLeod RST clutches for $720 and $900 respectively that might go well with my 418 CID LS3 and TVS2300 next year. Linkage below--I'd be interested in anyone's opinion of these clutches.

McLeod RST 800 HP Clutch

McLeod RXT 1000 HP Clutch

Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 12-02-2012 at 11:15 AM.
Old 12-02-2012, 09:09 AM
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If any of you need a LS7 clutch, i can get the part number off the one i have. I work at a dealer, and came across this BRAND new 07(I think) Z06 clutch kit. I will sell it for 200 shipped, or make offers.
Old 12-02-2012, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
If you don't want to overtorque the bolts in the name of sicence, try tightening the bolts on one side of the pressure plate and leave the others off. Half of the fingers will be at a different height than the others.
I did say evenly lol. Also if you plan on reusing or selling the old pressure plate then you should loosen them in the same fashion.
Old 12-02-2012, 09:21 AM
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These are the descp. And #'s that were on my invoice from scoggins ...

CTS-V Parts list:
Clutch slave # 24237634
Pilot brg. # 1255-7583
ARP FLY bolt kit# 330-2802
Clutch(Luk)GM# 24255748 (2007 vette 6.0)
Ram flywheel # 2552
Old 12-02-2012, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
The earliest hint of clutch engagement begins at 1/4 (letting you manage stop-and-go situations) and the clutch is significantly engaged at 1/2. Complete engagement is about 2/3-3/4 of total travel. The last 1/4 doesn't do much.

Did I mention that I changed my plans for the clutch to succeed my current LS7? For a while, I thought I was going to go with the $650 multi-friction F1 Racing setup that's rated for 625/578 crank ($450 if you have a flywheel), but I ran across a set of 800 and 1000 crank horsepower McLeod RST clutches for $720 and $900 respectively that might go well with my 418 CID LS3 and TVS2300 next year. Linkage below--I'd be interested in anyone's opinion of these clutches.

McLeod RST 800 HP Clutch

McLeod RST 1000 HP Clutch
First one is organic, second rated for 1K HP is ceramic and not rated for racing but street, I would be Leary.
Take a look and read on this...http://marylandspeed.com/monster-clu...ii-p-2085.html save a few bucks to boot,just a thought
Old 12-02-2012, 10:05 AM
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another option thrown out there:
http://www.diamondclutch.com/
Old 12-02-2012, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Mn800r
First one is organic, second rated for 1K HP is ceramic and not rated for racing but street, I would be Leary.
Take a look and read on this...http://marylandspeed.com/monster-clu...ii-p-2085.html save a few bucks to boot,just a thought
Originally Posted by vmapper
another option thrown out there:
http://www.diamondclutch.com/
The disadvantage of those single disc systems is that their moment of inertia is higher than a twin disc system.

If you look at the RST/RXT kits and some of the user-produced installation guides, you'll note that these things are much narrower than a traditional clutch, which is why each kit includes an adapter plate for standard size flywheels.
Old 12-02-2012, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Bowtie70SS
That is good advice. I did not even consider that the CTS-V slave cylinder has a shorter travel. I have 2 LS7 slaves on order from O'reilly but they are apparently on a national back order, that has been 2 weeks so far.
I order my LS7 Slave from O'reilly Nov. 21 and it came in Nov. 29.
Must have got lucky on my order
Old 12-02-2012, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by fast89stang
If any of you need a LS7 clutch, i can get the part number off the one i have. I work at a dealer, and came across this BRAND new 07(I think) Z06 clutch kit. I will sell it for 200 shipped, or make offers.
I'm interested if you still have it.. As long as it's the correct parts. ( I just asked a guy about one recently and it was a take off from a crate engine, but didn't have the right flywheel or something)
Old 12-02-2012, 06:33 PM
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If you have the coin, this clutch setup should hold your supercharged 418 LS3 pretty easily.

https://www.vengeancerd.com/ecart/pr...-Carbon-Clutch

or this

https://www.vengeancerd.com/ecart/pr...-Carbon-Clutch
Old 12-02-2012, 06:39 PM
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Seems massively overpriced relative to the competition.
Old 12-02-2012, 08:06 PM
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When I was looking into the RST, I learned that it drives pretty much like stock, with a softer than stock pedal and that it holds really well. Downsides I read about it were some light chatter and some rattling noise when in neutral, believed to be coming from the floater plate. I was very close to getting it myself.
Also, the general consensus is that if you are going to track your car often, to go with the RXT.
Old 12-06-2012, 09:45 PM
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I have money in-hand right now, and am wondering if this is a good option? I have seem similar "kits" thrown around here ... this seems similar:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/LUK-CLUTCH-K...ff0109&vxp=mtr
Old 12-06-2012, 10:00 PM
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I put the LS7 clutch/flywheel, and slave, and I love it, better driveability over stock for sure
Old 12-06-2012, 10:06 PM
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It's a good deal, the slave alone is $210, comes with pilot brg $25. And alignment tool. For a stock motor that's a buy!.
Old 12-06-2012, 10:06 PM
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GM uses LUK clutch parts. LUK is high quality stuff and that isn't a bad price
Old 12-06-2012, 10:47 PM
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Excellent. Ordered, thank you gentlemen.


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