DarkCharisma

I've been reading on the "other" forum where apparently the LS7 clutch is a less-than-liked replacement for a stock-ish V1, which contrasts pretty sharply from it's generally positive reception here.

I am in need of a clutch, and was originally sold on the LS7, but now I'm wondering if I'd be making a bad choice ...

So is there any good reasons to not get the Luk clutch and factory 20.4lbs flywheel for a V1 that's a daily driver, pushing stock power, by somebody who just enjoys having a buff car? Is there anything else in the same price range that's a better option?

Dmax/04V

Ls9x clutch from katech FTW, love mine.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

You'll be fine with the LS7. Plenty of people running them trouble free. Always a few bad eggs spoiling the bunch.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

If ur under 500 it'll be plenty and drivability is better than stock. I'm at 485/480 and its holding just fine. Once I push it a little more I'm gonna go with the ls9

Mn800r

I replaced a moster stage 3 with over 30K on it with the LS7 due to cost and regretting it big time!. My biggest complaint is it grabs just off the floor as the monster was at 1/2 to 2/3 off floor. Running 440 @ the wheels about 1500 miles on this LS7 and so far so good, trying to roast it as I want the monster back, and yes it's bled out. Good luck

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

You may need a shim for your throw out bearing. Since you changed the flywheel and clutch the distances are different. Check out this thread. I just measured the MN12 in my Chevelle with my new Zoom dual disc with this method.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html
And the guys at Tick Performance know their stuff.

Mn800r

Thanks for that, did the shim and was way wrong, spent many hrs searching on the other site and no shim with LS7 slave is your only option going with this clutch.

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

I was speaking in addition to the stock slave cylinder. Also I used a Cts-V slave and I used this: http://store.katechengines.com/cts-v...pacer-p95.aspx Made up for the difference in height with the dual disk. Now as to your slave what was wrong? No pedal free play or did it slip? Just curious

Mn800r

I had that spacer at the install, Trans wouldn't even bolt up...nothing wrong with the slave that was in there, just didn't want to take a chance of it failing is all.

Take a look at the huge cut out I did when I had the spacer in place..

DarkCharisma

If yours is holding up, I'd imagine one would hold up fine with my 80mph cruise-control commute every day.

nfl2008

iTrader: (-1)

Its perfect for under 500 hp as others have said Luke at Lindsay had the while kit. I love mine going on 50000 miles on it hard driven with 450 hp here

Stone17

iTrader: (3)

I order my clutch from GM Parts Direct. $418.79 plus $24.99 shipping.

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...c6ls7clutchkit

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

I'm pushing 500 rwhp through mine, and it doesn't really slip, although my pedal gets sucked to the floor when I wind out 4th.

Ls9x clutches break in these cars with 500+ rwhp. Pisnuoff broke many straps that hold the discs together causing some legit messes, on 2 or 3 clutches. If you're spending the money, get something better than ls9.

Mn800r

Scoggins dickey has a great price on there LS7 kit w/ Ram alum flywheel less slave for around 500 if I remember right, just don't get the $95 spacer, get the LS7 slave with the clutch.

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

I used the same setup in your pic for my Chevelle cause I had a brand new CTS-V TOB and the LS7 ones are on back order at O'reilly. In the article on measuring for a spacer it mentions you need 1/8 to 1/16 "preload". I think what they are saying is that you need that to mke your clutch pedal have the proper amount of free play. Sorry if I am beating a dead horse, I wanna make sure I understand all this correctly before I do mine.

BTW my Chevelle has a modified CTS-V trans with a F Body tail housing and GTO mainshaft. I ended up trimming my bell housing for the spacer and remote bleeder.

01_SuperSlow

iTrader: (7)

The Katech spacer should only be used with the CTS-V slave, not with the LS7 slave in that picture. That will never work.
The LS7 slave is taller, eliminating the need for the spacer.

Mn800r

^^^yes that's what I'm saying but,, the info I had at the time was use all ls7 components for it will not work other wise. Wish I had known the stock CTS-V slave would have worked!, wonder where the pedal would have engaged at?. Either way it's in as of late July and still engages just off the friggin floor..

minytrker

iTrader: (13)

I just put a LS7 clutch in with CTS-V slave and the spacer from Katech yesterday. I also installed a remote bleeder while I was there. I got sick so I havent tried it out yet but it all went in very easily with no problems.

Mn800r

Should be interesting to see where your engagement is at?, what flywheel you using? How much for the clutch ,slave and spacer.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I'm an expert on this, having bled, sweat, and cursed my way through 7 transmission removals in one summer trying to single-handedly figure out why I couldn't shift properly. I've utilized the standard CTS-V slave with the Katech spacer, the Tick 3-spacer set, and the regular LS7 slave. You should just read this, but the bottom line is:

1. The special short-travel slave that the CTS-V came with is designed for its unique dual-mass clutch and should not be used with any other clutch. The Katech spacer will get you limping along, but you'll find yourself grinding the clutch because it's not quite long enough. The force of the hydraulics will eventually make that Katech spacer fuse with the slave. When I replaced it with a LS7 slave, I tried to separate the two for an hour before giving up. I wasn't about to try to cut it out, since that would've destroyed the resale value of the spacer in the process.

2. The LS7 slave doesn't require a shim--not even the small Tick ones. I did the measurements.

3. Whenever you install a clutch, be extremely conscious of the pressure plate bolt torque spec. Overtorquing those bolts will cause the clutch fingers to retract inward, resulting in low engagement.

I highly recommend the PowerTorque CS2529 LS7 slave, sold at O'Reilly. It's $92. If your CTS-V is not your daily driver and you still have the transmission out of the car, pause the installation and buy it. Return the Katech spacer while you can, or just recycle it.