ZONick

shrader valve shows no fuel pressure. Relay clicks when I turn the key and I tried swapping it to. Looking at the top of the fuel pump assembly now and it looks perfect :-/. Guess I need to get a volt meter and see if there's power there and if not maybe bad fuel pump?

ZONick

How would I check this? I don't know anything about the CPS.

And thanks to everyone. I've tried about everything recommended so far including hitting the tank with a hammer lol. keep it coming! We are all in this together. Until my car is running again there is imbalance in the world...

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Well now that you have access to the tank yes check for power. Using a test light hooked to the fuel pump power wire turn the key on, should light for 2 seconds and turn off. Also listen and maybe feel if the pump is running. They are loud enough to where it should be obvious. With power and still no pumpy it is def the pump. Time to upgrade? Dont forget to change he filter as well!

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

"With power and still no pumpy it is def the pump".

NOT TRUE.

The connection could still be bad.

If power is there and no pump run, then you either drop the tank or cut a hole as you are gonna need to at that point.

ZONick

ok I'm waiting for my gf to get home to get my a ride to the auto parts store. I need a volt meter. I don't know what happened to mine.

and btw, hole is already cut. I cannot hear the pump running at all.

How do I test this connection with the volt meter? it has 4 holes and my volt meter will only have two. Can I just test different combinations of the holes?

Thanks guys

ZONick

One more question, Is anyone positive that I should be able to hear the pump? I have the hole cut and I hear the clicking in the back fusebox, but no pump.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

You would def hear the pump. Unless yiu have the radio on it makes a distinct sound.

And heavy if the connector is not visibly melted and appears fine? Are you saying that from the wires from the connector to the pump inside the tank could be bad? That i have never seen.

Also, with the hole cut why is it necessary to drop the tank? Just take it out the top.

ZONick

We'll wait until I get the volt meter to see if this is even possible. The connection looks brand new. if that plug is showing power and the pump still doesn't turn on I'm going to have to pull it all out and probably replace the pump.

I would be able to get the pump out from the top with the hole cut.

I was thinking I would swap the filter, but if the pump isn't running that means it's not the filter...

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

There could be a connection that went south without melting and that includes inside the pump.

If you want to see if the pump runs, unplug it and stick a pair of jumper cables to it.

The wire for the pump is the big thick one.

The others are for the level sensor.

ZONick

Well that makes sense why when I put the volt meter in a few configurations it started saying low fuel level. There was one however that when I plugged it in and turned the key it went to 12v for 2 seconds then turned off. I'm guessing that's the pump.

So... that means it's something past the connection. I guess I need to pull the whole assembly out and start replacing stuff.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

You ought to feel pretty slick!

At least you were able to troubleshoot and find it.

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I didn't expect this guy to turn out to be MagGuyver.

ZONick

Lol, hey, how do you remove those stupid fuel lines connector things? is there a trick to it? Looks like there's 4 little tabs inside, but I don't know how to push all of them at once...

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

There is a release tool for that.

ZONick

Awesome. Is there a known way to 'macguyver' it?

ZONick

or is this a tool that's readily available at like autozone or o'reilly?

tmonttt

iTrader: (10)

This is similar to what I used to disconnect my line at the fuel rail.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...fier=2356_0_0_

ZONick

Thank you for that. I actually got the first one off after just struggling with it for half an hour. Not fun. I went to o'reilly and got a similar package of disconnects. MUCH easier.

So, I did a test. I unplugged both of the fuel lines from the tank. put some rubber tubing on the connection so I wouldn't dump gas on the inside and turned the key to 'on' to see if any gas would come out. It did not. I'd say that would pretty definitively mean I need to continue pulling the basket out and test the pump.

Quesiton: if I hook the pump directly to the battery for a second as a test should it run? pumps are more expensive than I thought so I wanna make sure that's it.

Thanks,

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

You already proved that, but it won't damage anything.

CoSteve

iTrader: (1)

That's what I was thinking also.

Have you put a reader on to see if there are any codes?