The actual D2 coilover group buy!
#63
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I've done a good bit of research and I have to agree, these are not made for track!
I almost got on the group buy for KW's but I decided to make my car a trailer queen.
My understanding is that they perform well for everyday use. I also agree that those pictures need some explaining. I've owned imports for years and most of the kids on the honda sites are ignorant, stupid or both!
I almost got on the group buy for KW's but I decided to make my car a trailer queen.
My understanding is that they perform well for everyday use. I also agree that those pictures need some explaining. I've owned imports for years and most of the kids on the honda sites are ignorant, stupid or both!
#64
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Unless D2/K-Sport's coilover durability on our 4000 lb platform is significantly better than it has been on 2500 lb imports, some of you may be in for a world of pain. Snapped adjustment rings, pitted shafts, rusted springs, sheared mounting tabs...sometimes after only days of use. That said, I hope that you provide me wrong. Best of luck, guys. ![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...aron060ys8.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...k/brokenD2.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3..._5383311_n.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i35/oogystick/f2.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...l24/temp_5.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...l24/temp_6.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...t/PICT0548.jpg
http://members.home.nl/m.gankema/var...mp/ks_ra_4.jpg
http://members.home.nl/m.gankema/var...mp/ks_ra_5.jpg
http://members.home.nl/m.gankema/var...perstangen.jpg
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/4422/imag1083t.jpg
http://volvospeed.com/Pics/Review/20...ver_broke1.jpg
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...aron060ys8.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...k/brokenD2.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3..._5383311_n.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i35/oogystick/f2.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...l24/temp_5.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g3...l24/temp_6.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...t/PICT0548.jpg
http://members.home.nl/m.gankema/var...mp/ks_ra_4.jpg
http://members.home.nl/m.gankema/var...mp/ks_ra_5.jpg
http://members.home.nl/m.gankema/var...perstangen.jpg
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/4422/imag1083t.jpg
http://volvospeed.com/Pics/Review/20...ver_broke1.jpg
1. Looks like a crash. Nothing to do with coil over construction.
2. Look like uncontrolled horizontal movement. No way could it shear like that with just verticle movement.
3. The whole strut tower is destroyed; therefor no suspension component would have survived this impact.
4. Not even d2 colors, looks like a ground control ring to me.
5. K-sport strut which probably had a top mount lock up and fail (or installed wrong) causing the power steering to sheer the strut body.
6. Same picture as 5.
7. K-sport definitely installer caused problem.
8. Looks like either weld slag hit it or possibly bad Chinese metal. It is the world we live in. **Looking again now this is def weld slag hitting it** Look at the spring (weld slag all over it) and the top of the shock body (weld slag everywhere) That has idiot all over it.
9. Same picture as 8.
10. Same picture as 8 and 9 plus looks like a rebuild able shock. Easy enough to replace.
11. Again, does not look like a D2 product. Cropped picture cannot tell who makes them. By the looks of the top of the shock body they do not look like D2’s
12. Strut with a sway bar attachment, does not apply to the V.
Hope this helps.
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Last edited by NIKDSC5; 01-14-2013 at 05:08 PM.
#67
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Look forward to tracking your install, grab some pics! I still don't have my ksports where I want them, dialing these in has been a biotch without a lift, curious to see how others go about it.
Plan on a corner balance and alignment as soon as I'm where I want to be.
Plan on a corner balance and alignment as soon as I'm where I want to be.
#68
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gonna be some time before I put them on. Still have to get different front spring rates and I plan on doing these along with brake lines and sway bars, as well as revshift control arm bushings front and rear. All of which I still have yet to purchase. So If I have these on by summer I will be happy!
#69
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gonna be some time before I put them on. Still have to get different front spring rates and I plan on doing these along with brake lines and sway bars, as well as revshift control arm bushings front and rear. All of which I still have yet to purchase. So If I have these on by summer I will be happy!
Do you know what springs you're getting? I would like to do the same.
#70
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Great minds think a like! That's exactly what I did Hotchkis sways, SS brake lines and bushings (control arm, diff, cradle, trailing arm) from revshift all at the same time. I still haven't been able to get the brake's stiff again, bled the ever loving **** out of them...
Do you know what springs you're getting? I would like to do the same.
Do you know what springs you're getting? I would like to do the same.
Also I like to make project weekends, where I tear it down and rebuild it with several items. This way I only waste one weekend, and Im not touching the same hardware (bolts etc) again in the future doing other projects. One and done.
*wish my 8.8 came out that way* building another rear with different internals now to shut that thing up.
#71
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I think im going to run 700's up front and the 550's that come with the D2 kit out back. They say the 550 will be too stiff for the rear but I have my doubts. Crawling under there and looking at how far the spring moves out/ gains a leverage advantage is not alot. I have been told to run 400's out back but...money is always an issue thus why I plan on trying out the 550's I already have and decide from there. And again it is easy enough to change rear shocks and spring on these cars to where I can change them quick and easy if I dont like them (especially if they are ran as a true coil over setup).
Also I like to make project weekends, where I tear it down and rebuild it with several items. This way I only waste one weekend, and Im not touching the same hardware (bolts etc) again in the future doing other projects. One and done.
*wish my 8.8 came out that way* building another rear with different internals now to shut that thing up.
Also I like to make project weekends, where I tear it down and rebuild it with several items. This way I only waste one weekend, and Im not touching the same hardware (bolts etc) again in the future doing other projects. One and done.
*wish my 8.8 came out that way* building another rear with different internals now to shut that thing up.
#73
TECH Enthusiast
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I've had mine for a few days now. Hopefully gonna try installing them this weekend. I'm still a bit unclear on how to set them up initially (as in starting length/height) but I suppose we will work that out as we go.
#75
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He also provides a excel sheet where you input all the suspension geometry and it will tell you the effective wheel rate and frequency. a sports car is generally tuned to 1.4 Hz up front and 1.5Hz out back. Tuning for those frequencies and our suspension geometry you get 700# up front and if you were to do the coilover rear setup up roughly 400#. If you were to maintain the original spring location closer to 750#. I used corner weights from another post in cadillac forums.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...tor%20V6.4.xls
Use this if you want to custom tune your suspension setup.
#78
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I am impressed with them for the few months they have been on. I run them on the softest "track" setting which is 9 clicks back from the stiffest setting. The springs are definitely too soft. I have taken them too the track and coming downhill on an off camber turn they would tend to compress enough to allow the tire to rub the inner fender well. I will be switching soon to either 650/700 or 650/(350 or 375) as a true coil-over setup in the rear. They do not compromise ride quality either. They are firm but not harsh.