liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

Easy there Brian, I just havent seen many quick n/a v's


And a car built recently should be able to go 200k with some minor scheduled maintenance. I have an audi a4 1.8t with 240K on the clock with the stock turbo with zero issues engine wise.

JDB

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't compare the two... Audi 1.8T is a solid motor and needs no building even doubling its power. My previous car was a '01.5 with APR stage 3 (GT28R turbo) making 330hp on race gas that I tracked often. That motor starts at 150hp and 7 psi boost. '01 just turned up the wick with 10psi to make 170hp.

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

ohh i know a bit about these engines. I have built a few gt30 1.8 cars....but this is my wifes daily so its mostly stock.

JDB

iTrader: (2)

Which motor? AEB, ATW, or AWM?

Are you on QuattroWorld?

795MD

That's why I posted the video, I was wondering if it seemed normal. I have no measuring stick. I'm thinking new maf/air filter and plugs tommorow. I had a bouncy idle but cleaned the maf and throttle butterfly, smoothed it out some. Any other parking lot mateinance I should perform?

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

What you posted is about right for stock. Headers a a tune really wake these cars up, especially at higher RPM.

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

Wife has an ATW block but most of the cars i built were vw's (jettas and golfs). Mostly MIV if i recall that 2003 chassis

JDB

iTrader: (2)

Cool. Always wanted to go bigger than my off the shelf kit using a GT28R, but I liked the reliability ...it's now on its 4th car and ~100k.

I hope you've at least chipped it.

DMM

I wouldn't mess with the MAF, not unless you have a scan tool or logging equipment to see what it's doing. I would complete the modifications that you intend to do and have it tuned.

795MD

I just came in from plugs and maf. It really cleaned up my idle and throttle response, im excited to see if my mileage increased. I have read north of 25mpg on granny highway driving. The best I could muster was 22mpg. It feels quicker, one thing that still persistent when coasting with the car out of gear the throttle response is sluggish. Is this normal? What are the benifits/risk of getting the head milled down, bout to start the research on that. Im not sure if I want to build the rear end, and the power from the cam and headers will make it a nuke, correct?

Took me about 4 hours start to finish

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

Did you replace the MAF sensor or just the air filter?

DMM

The sluggish throttle response while coasting is normal if you do not have the clutch pedal fully depressed. Wheel hop is what kills the rear, although the CV's seem to break pretty regularly. I would get all of the RevShift bushings that are offered and install them. I just did the rear subframe and trailing arm bushings...night and day difference and will greatly help with wheel hop.

795MD

Maf sensor I actually just vaccumed the filter out, I think the dealer put a new one in before I bought it. I got the maf from the dealer for 260. Going to order the bushing now. I wont attempt installing them, am I looking at more than 3 hours shop time for all the bushings? My dif whines slighty at 50mph in 5th gear. And the tranny wines in 6th below 50. Normal I suppose. When I was under the car I noticed the bolt on the trans has a blue line painted on it to bolt, does that mean its from the factory mount? The motor mounts are brand new.

DMM

Going to order the bushing now. I wont attempt installing them, am I looking at more than 3 hours shop time for all the bushings?

Yes...much more. If you don't do them yourself you'll probably get raped. Call around is my only advise or take a weekend to get them done.

My dif whines slighty at 50mph in 5th gear. And the tranny wines in 6th below 50. Normal I suppose.

Yup...pretty much standard for a V1.

When I was under the car I noticed the bolt on the trans has a blue line painted on it to bolt, does that mean its from the factory mount? The motor mounts are brand new.

Is there a problem with it? I don't understand the significance or the question. If the mount is collapsed, RevShift has an insert for it on the cheap.



My ultimate advise...learn to wrench or get a second job...the V's aren't bad to work on really (especially with the assistance of people here on this forum), but it sure as hell costs A LOT when you don't do things yourself!

795MD

The question about the mount is wondering if its bad or not. When under the car on a lift I can push up on the trans and it wont move. Usually that means that the mounts are good. Im wondering if that is a result of the new motor mounts. When driving it feels like there is movement in the trans or not sure if clunky driveline. The car has a new driveshaft and rear end, so im thinking the mount is new and its cadillac install procedure. The po had everything done at caddilac. Can any one run the last 8 of vin for service history?

DMM

you can go to ANY GM dealer and they can run a GM VISS. However, it will only show what was completed under warranty...nothing done outside of the warranty period. It may show an open campaign for the rear subframe isolator inserts...don't worry about having it done...doesn't do anything.

odthetruth

iTrader: (4)

Those the blue lines in question? I believe those are on the stock mounts only. My mount was shot to hell and I put a revshift insert. Ended up feeling better then the CS mount I originally had in place.

Agreed.

795MD

Yes thats the exact lines im talking about. I get a a up down clunk noise hard to explain and I believe it is the mount. It happens when luggin the motor in a 1 to 2 shift I feel like I have to rev match every shift up or down to get a nice smooth shift. Was way worse before the fluid change. I can shift into first and 6th. Thanks for the picture really appreciate

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

Hey what's up guys... made this quick video for a comparison. I did not run it it out to 130 as I ran out of track but I stepped on it at about 62mph and WOT to about 105ish. 4th gear the whole time. Sorry for the shaky vid I'm not a pro.

Kooks headers, high flow cats, magnaflow exhaust, no tune, 95k miles. Only code is a P0420 as I think I have a slight exhaust leak just in front of the driver side cat. I never noticed how high the oil pressure gets at high rpms in 4th gear. Normal is 35-45psi cruising.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9hSt...ature=youtu.be

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

7 second 60-100 mph.