Suspension & Rear End Mod(s) Opinion's
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Suspension & Rear End Mod(s) Opinion's
I was planning on doing a DIY 8.8 swap this winter but my schedule this year is just not going to allow it so for now I'm going to do a bunch of bandaid's. Before I drop cash on stuff I wanted to get opinions on a few items to see if they are worth the cash.
To start I've already ordered up all of RevShift's bushing's (Diff, Cradle, Trailing Arms & Control Arms), all in Red. I recently installed Hotchkis sways with adjustable links and am running stock tire sizes.
I have Ksport Coilovers which come with 560# spring rates which I am planning on swapping out 700# in front and 750# in the rear. I'm currently running the rear springs in the stock perch but have heard a lot of talk about running them as full coilovers. I'm still lost on the benefits of this approach.
Any who thinking of something like these (haven't pulled and measured actual I.D. and length yet so these are just general reference links)
Front - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-2-Eibach...429c04&vxp=mtr
Rear - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-2-Eibach...ef0c70&vxp=mtr
The other item's I'm considering but not sold on yet are:
Any feedback on these items as bandaid's would be much appreciated! I haven't had much of an issue with wheel hop (maybe once or twice) with the stock setup which I attribute to my paranoia of gernading it, but I'm really looking for a firm solid planted cornering feel on the ride.
Thanks Fellas!!
**Side Note** check out my new mouse pad!
To start I've already ordered up all of RevShift's bushing's (Diff, Cradle, Trailing Arms & Control Arms), all in Red. I recently installed Hotchkis sways with adjustable links and am running stock tire sizes.
I have Ksport Coilovers which come with 560# spring rates which I am planning on swapping out 700# in front and 750# in the rear. I'm currently running the rear springs in the stock perch but have heard a lot of talk about running them as full coilovers. I'm still lost on the benefits of this approach.
Any who thinking of something like these (haven't pulled and measured actual I.D. and length yet so these are just general reference links)
Front - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-2-Eibach...429c04&vxp=mtr
Rear - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-2-Eibach...ef0c70&vxp=mtr
The other item's I'm considering but not sold on yet are:
- BMR Trailing Arms
- BMR Toe Rods
- Gefore Axles
Any feedback on these items as bandaid's would be much appreciated! I haven't had much of an issue with wheel hop (maybe once or twice) with the stock setup which I attribute to my paranoia of gernading it, but I'm really looking for a firm solid planted cornering feel on the ride.
Thanks Fellas!!
**Side Note** check out my new mouse pad!
Last edited by etcts-v; 01-20-2013 at 01:13 AM.
#2
I have ALL the suspension bushings and rear end bushings that Revshift makes(in blue) and have nothing but good things to say about them. The car is alot more stiff and responsive in cornering and between shifts etc. As for taking off hard, I haven't noticed any wheel hop like I had before the install of the bushings.
#4
The gforce axles eliminated 95% of my wheel hop. I can't comment on the cradle bushings by themselves however I believe they have also helped the wheel hop further. The ksports utilize 2.5" I.D. 8" front spring and 9" rear spring... Found that out the hard way when buying new springs. Running an 8" rear spring would really drop the car and take away from available wheel travel.
Also the only benefit of running the rears as coilovers is for ease of height adjustment. I.e. you only have to adjust the shock tube length. Also I'd recommend 650/700.
Also the only benefit of running the rears as coilovers is for ease of height adjustment. I.e. you only have to adjust the shock tube length. Also I'd recommend 650/700.
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IMO if you plan on doing an 8.8 swap then...you should just save your money until you can afford of have the time to. Thats what I did, babied the V until I saved enough for the swap. With the exceptions to all the bushings, those are just an upgrade to the car and will compliment everything. The trailing arms are good but, Im holding off until killernoodle goes back to modifying the stockers as they are alot better than the BMR's and not a whole lot more $. I'm also waiting for Fuzzylogic to come up with some type of toe rod that cheaper than BMR's. Also because the BMR's are hard to adjust once on the car (not that you would have to adjust them alot) but its something to consider.
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The gforce axles eliminated 95% of my wheel hop. I can't comment on the cradle bushings by themselves however I believe they have also helped the wheel hop further. The ksports utilize 2.5" I.D. 8" front spring and 9" rear spring... Found that out the hard way when buying new springs. Running an 8" rear spring would really drop the car and take away from available wheel travel.
Also the only benefit of running the rears as coilovers is for ease of height adjustment. I.e. you only have to adjust the shock tube length. Also I'd recommend 650/700.
Also the only benefit of running the rears as coilovers is for ease of height adjustment. I.e. you only have to adjust the shock tube length. Also I'd recommend 650/700.
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IMO if you plan on doing an 8.8 swap then...you should just save your money until you can afford of have the time to. Thats what I did, babied the V until I saved enough for the swap. With the exceptions to all the bushings, those are just an upgrade to the car and will compliment everything. The trailing arms are good but, Im holding off until killernoodle goes back to modifying the stockers as they are alot better than the BMR's and not a whole lot more $. I'm also waiting for Fuzzylogic to come up with some type of toe rod that cheaper than BMR's. Also because the BMR's are hard to adjust once on the car (not that you would have to adjust them alot) but its something to consider.
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#8
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Not finding any Eibach 9" length, what about these for the rear:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfi-9750/overview/
or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfi-9700/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfi-9750/overview/
or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfi-9700/overview/
#9
If you want to run the rear coilover setup 400 is the same as 750 about. I was going to run 650/350. Also for the rear coilover you need a significantly shorter spring either 7 or 8". 9" is way too long. Up front you can run as much as 10".
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(Thank you for your help on this, noob with suspension and still waiting for the "Performance Suspension" book I ordered a month ago to show up to educate myself on spring rates, lengths, etc)
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Ok here's another stupid question, I pulled my tires tonight to pull the springs and throw them up on e-bay do get a little cash towards the new springs. I didn't think about this until I actually looked at the setup but how does one covert the rears to a full coilover setup when there are no upper perches for the springs on the shock assembly? In the front the springs rest on the upper control arm assembly but in the rear the shocks just bolt straight to the body?
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Ok here's another stupid question, I pulled my tires tonight to pull the springs and throw them up on e-bay do get a little cash towards the new springs. I didn't think about this until I actually looked at the setup but how does one covert the rears to a full coilover setup when there are no upper perches for the springs on the shock assembly? In the front the springs rest on the upper control arm assembly but in the rear the shocks just bolt straight to the body?
It should be fairly simple, slide the collar or, thread the adjusting nut on etc and so forth. Just set them up similar to the front. I knwo the D2's the top of the rear shock acts as the mount for the spring.
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Well if I understand it right the D2's it is easy to just convert them. As for K-sport since the general consensus says they are the same as D2 (not sure) they should be the same way. Read the D2 coil over thread, a gentle man there had pictures of them converted to tru-coilovers with the parts that came with the kit.
It should be fairly simple, slide the collar or, thread the adjusting nut on etc and so forth. Just set them up similar to the front. I knwo the D2's the top of the rear shock acts as the mount for the spring.
It should be fairly simple, slide the collar or, thread the adjusting nut on etc and so forth. Just set them up similar to the front. I knwo the D2's the top of the rear shock acts as the mount for the spring.
Thanks for the help fellas!!
#16
Any benefit of going 7" vs 8" other than ride height? I imagine a longer spring would have more of spring affect on the ride? One reason I went to coilovers was my rear end on lowering springs was way too low so I'm thinking 8" would be the way to go.
(Thank you for your help on this, noob with suspension and still waiting for the "Performance Suspension" book I ordered a month ago to show up to educate myself on spring rates, lengths, etc)
(Thank you for your help on this, noob with suspension and still waiting for the "Performance Suspension" book I ordered a month ago to show up to educate myself on spring rates, lengths, etc)
As for coilover length I would buy both 7 and 8 from summit and return the one you don't like. It depends how low you want to go.
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