*pics added shes home* going to look at a 05 cts-v. what concerns should i have?
02-11-2013, 09:46 AM
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*pics added shes home* going to look at a 05 cts-v. what concerns should i have? ok i have a 00 z28. love the ls platform but with 2 kids need a better suited car. so i am going to look at a 05 cts-v with 112k on the clock. i am going to work it out to hopefully not be my DD, but it will be driven. what should i look at hard, and is there anything that needs to be replaced other than the normal consumables ie, plugs, wires, fluids, brakes, tires, etc. that i should budget in. not a newb to LS but definately new to caddy V's. i got to drive a 2013 V coupe this weekend and needless to say i am in love!
thanks!
thanks!
Last edited by bigti99a; 03-08-2013 at 03:35 PM.
02-11-2013, 09:57 AM
#2
Drive it! Listen for the rear end whine. Hit bumps to tell is the shocks are shot. Start off in 1st gear and intentiionally be jerky about it and listen for the differential bushing clunk.
Also that V2 is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy different compared to the V1.
Also that V2 is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy different compared to the V1.
02-11-2013, 10:29 AM
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so is the rear end the only problem area with the car? i wont be launching it at the track so if there is no whine and no klunking is it safe to say shes gonna stay that way?
02-11-2013, 10:33 AM
#5
its going to impossible to find one that doesn't clunk and whine.. its just the nature of the car. it has design flaws but it wont leave you stranded unless you launch it.. Its a great DD for being a 6spd
02-11-2013, 11:31 AM
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I believe that the best bandaid for the rear end is a new bushing for the front of the diff (revshift or CS), and maybe a set of anti wheel hop axles such as the gforce units. The best solution is going to be an 8.8 or 9 inch. Good reliable cars for the most, just be ready to change some bushings here and there.
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02-11-2013, 11:33 AM
#9
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Don't do the WH kits. Axles are the only way to go.
Besides normal stuff (leaking under motor/trans, dents in fenders, ketchup stains on all the seats, etc), listen to motor on engine shutdown. If it exhibits a pronounced shuddering, the motor mounts are probably shot. Not a deal breaker, but a negotiating point.
Good luck!
Besides normal stuff (leaking under motor/trans, dents in fenders, ketchup stains on all the seats, etc), listen to motor on engine shutdown. If it exhibits a pronounced shuddering, the motor mounts are probably shot. Not a deal breaker, but a negotiating point.
Good luck!
02-11-2013, 12:18 PM
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The shutter at shutoff is that turd of a heavy flywheel. Could also be motor mounts on top if that... I'd plan to replace the MMs and there are lots of options.
Find the PN on the rear diff, since many have been updated with the 25873498 diff. My '05 has it thanks to me whining about the whining it had at about 45-50 mph in 4th or 5th gear and it was replaced under CPO warranty along with a new bushing. ...didn't take long for that bushing to crack and I put in Creative Steel bushing and block. Much better.
If it clunks, bushing and the block put above the diff will clear up most of it.
You don't need axles, but that is the fix over any of the hop kits. Just don't launch it or do burnouts and you'll he fine...carefully pull away in the rain. The first time you rattle the rear end, you'll think every nut and boot just came out the back. Just don't do it and you'll be fine with whatever diff and axles are in there. Definitely recommend flushing fluid often though.
Get a short shifter, get a CAGS elimination if not done already.
Everything else is like any other used car purchase.
Find the PN on the rear diff, since many have been updated with the 25873498 diff. My '05 has it thanks to me whining about the whining it had at about 45-50 mph in 4th or 5th gear and it was replaced under CPO warranty along with a new bushing. ...didn't take long for that bushing to crack and I put in Creative Steel bushing and block. Much better.
If it clunks, bushing and the block put above the diff will clear up most of it.
You don't need axles, but that is the fix over any of the hop kits. Just don't launch it or do burnouts and you'll he fine...carefully pull away in the rain. The first time you rattle the rear end, you'll think every nut and boot just came out the back. Just don't do it and you'll be fine with whatever diff and axles are in there. Definitely recommend flushing fluid often though.
Get a short shifter, get a CAGS elimination if not done already.
Everything else is like any other used car purchase.
Last edited by JDB; 02-11-2013 at 08:04 PM.
02-11-2013, 02:21 PM
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Check the motor mounts (the stock ones will leak and it will look like the guy drove through mud underneath if they are broke bad enough), the radiator for leaks (common issue), the clutch fluid condition/level and the rear diff for leaks or shot mounts/bushings. I would not walk away from a car because of these issues, but I would factor any fixes into your price (my car needed most of these items addressed when I bought it with a lot less miles).
02-11-2013, 05:00 PM
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TEST DRIVE CHECKLIST
• Check dashboard to ensure CEL light works, and all lights work. Check signals for hyperflash (fast signal blink), etc. Put the key in, but only move it to the first position (the ON, not the RUN or IGNITION positions). This should light up the whole dash, and show the CEL light up as well, even if there are no codes. This is to ensure light works.
• Check interior… Do all windows work? Is all interior trim in decent condition? Check driver\passenger mirrors\lights in mirrors, etc. Is the trim stock, or does it look like someone put sticker woodgrain in it? This shows maturity of previous owner… and odds are a younger owner will beat the car harder. Same applies to exterior with fake vents, etc.
• Check all seats, handles and make sure all cupholders, fold-up bits, etc work.
• Visual inspect wheels, rotors, brakes, tires, etc. Check to see treadwear on tires with a quarter and penny.
• If you can, get one of those magnet pens and get a piece of felt. Put the felt over the magnet pen and hold it there with a rubberband or something. Run it around the body. It should magnetize to every fender, etc. If it doesn't, the car has had body work in that area, and obviously been in an accident. (The bumpers don't count, as they are normally plastic)
• Check under hood. Look for leaks especially. Check coolant. If it looks milky, brownish, oily… car may have head gasket issue, which is never a simple job.
• Ask when was the last time all fluids were changed? Ask what kind of fluids.
• Check oil in engine on dipstick. Black? Could be Mobil1. Did owner say this was the case? Smell burnt? Oil being dark doesn’t mean its burnt. Mobil1 normally turns black within 1k miles, but still holds up like new.
• Start engine and let it idle for 10 minutes. Listen for any noises. Let the car warm up.
• While car is warming up, turn the steering wheel from 1 side, all the way to the other a few times. Do you hear a whining sound? Power steering pump may be on the way out.
• Test drive for about 30 minutes if possible. Drive hard, see if car seems to be holding up. Sometimes, issues don’t pop up until the engine is at its operating temperature.
• When up to highway speeds… do you feel vibrations? Do you feel vibrations when braking at highway speeds (40-60mph)? If so, rotors or wheels may be damaged and warped. Does the car pull to 1 side? If so, tie rods may need replacing.
• Get 1 opportunity, hopefully in an empty lot, to brake hard from 40 to 0. Does it stop in a straight line? Pull to the sides?
• Make a 1 point U-turn (not a 3 point). Do you hear clicking in the turn? If it’s a FWD car, the CV joints may be bad, which can sometimes require a full axle change.
• Ask about any types of warranty included, at least 30 day if its at a dealership. Make it VERY clear what it is for, make it even clearer that you WILL bring the car back if there is an issue
• Once you are done driving it, pop the hood and turn the car off. Check for any leaks. Dealerships will often power-wash an engine to remove any residue or obvious leaks so the car looks to be in better shape then it is.
• It may not be possible, but if it is, get it on a jack stand. Check to see if anything appears to be leaking. Grab the front wheels at a 3 and 9 o clock position. Shake them. Does it feel like its moving too much? Could be tie rods or wheel bearing. Grab at 12 and 6 and shake. If it feels like its moving too much, it could be a ball joint or control arm bushing. Grab sway bars and try moving them. If they move, sway bar links and bushings may need to be replaced.
And V specific:
Get up to 45mph in 5th and get up to 55ish, Do you hear whine? Shift to 6th and listen for whine as well. Some diff whine is normal. Too much \ too loud is no good.
Drive up to about 20mph in 1st and then clutch in and go to 4th. Does it clunk? Diff bushing is shot.
How hard is it to get into Reverse? Trans mount might be shot.
Check diff for leaks (vent leak or axle seal leak), and check engine rear seal if possible for leak.
Check clutch fluid. If its black and has particles floating in it, but the driver never 'drove it hard', he's full of ****. LOL
• Check dashboard to ensure CEL light works, and all lights work. Check signals for hyperflash (fast signal blink), etc. Put the key in, but only move it to the first position (the ON, not the RUN or IGNITION positions). This should light up the whole dash, and show the CEL light up as well, even if there are no codes. This is to ensure light works.
• Check interior… Do all windows work? Is all interior trim in decent condition? Check driver\passenger mirrors\lights in mirrors, etc. Is the trim stock, or does it look like someone put sticker woodgrain in it? This shows maturity of previous owner… and odds are a younger owner will beat the car harder. Same applies to exterior with fake vents, etc.
• Check all seats, handles and make sure all cupholders, fold-up bits, etc work.
• Visual inspect wheels, rotors, brakes, tires, etc. Check to see treadwear on tires with a quarter and penny.
• If you can, get one of those magnet pens and get a piece of felt. Put the felt over the magnet pen and hold it there with a rubberband or something. Run it around the body. It should magnetize to every fender, etc. If it doesn't, the car has had body work in that area, and obviously been in an accident. (The bumpers don't count, as they are normally plastic)
• Check under hood. Look for leaks especially. Check coolant. If it looks milky, brownish, oily… car may have head gasket issue, which is never a simple job.
• Ask when was the last time all fluids were changed? Ask what kind of fluids.
• Check oil in engine on dipstick. Black? Could be Mobil1. Did owner say this was the case? Smell burnt? Oil being dark doesn’t mean its burnt. Mobil1 normally turns black within 1k miles, but still holds up like new.
• Start engine and let it idle for 10 minutes. Listen for any noises. Let the car warm up.
• While car is warming up, turn the steering wheel from 1 side, all the way to the other a few times. Do you hear a whining sound? Power steering pump may be on the way out.
• Test drive for about 30 minutes if possible. Drive hard, see if car seems to be holding up. Sometimes, issues don’t pop up until the engine is at its operating temperature.
• When up to highway speeds… do you feel vibrations? Do you feel vibrations when braking at highway speeds (40-60mph)? If so, rotors or wheels may be damaged and warped. Does the car pull to 1 side? If so, tie rods may need replacing.
• Get 1 opportunity, hopefully in an empty lot, to brake hard from 40 to 0. Does it stop in a straight line? Pull to the sides?
• Make a 1 point U-turn (not a 3 point). Do you hear clicking in the turn? If it’s a FWD car, the CV joints may be bad, which can sometimes require a full axle change.
• Ask about any types of warranty included, at least 30 day if its at a dealership. Make it VERY clear what it is for, make it even clearer that you WILL bring the car back if there is an issue
• Once you are done driving it, pop the hood and turn the car off. Check for any leaks. Dealerships will often power-wash an engine to remove any residue or obvious leaks so the car looks to be in better shape then it is.
• It may not be possible, but if it is, get it on a jack stand. Check to see if anything appears to be leaking. Grab the front wheels at a 3 and 9 o clock position. Shake them. Does it feel like its moving too much? Could be tie rods or wheel bearing. Grab at 12 and 6 and shake. If it feels like its moving too much, it could be a ball joint or control arm bushing. Grab sway bars and try moving them. If they move, sway bar links and bushings may need to be replaced.
And V specific:
Get up to 45mph in 5th and get up to 55ish, Do you hear whine? Shift to 6th and listen for whine as well. Some diff whine is normal. Too much \ too loud is no good.
Drive up to about 20mph in 1st and then clutch in and go to 4th. Does it clunk? Diff bushing is shot.
How hard is it to get into Reverse? Trans mount might be shot.
Check diff for leaks (vent leak or axle seal leak), and check engine rear seal if possible for leak.
Check clutch fluid. If its black and has particles floating in it, but the driver never 'drove it hard', he's full of ****. LOL
02-11-2013, 06:10 PM
#14
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02-11-2013, 07:33 PM
#15
02-11-2013, 10:37 PM
#16
Also, make sure all electric locks work! You'll find in some V's that the back seats don't work and have to manually be unlocked.
make sure the CD changer works as well as the DVD navigation and disk...
make sure the CD changer works as well as the DVD navigation and disk...
TEST DRIVE CHECKLIST
• Check dashboard to ensure CEL light works, and all lights work. Check signals for hyperflash (fast signal blink), etc. Put the key in, but only move it to the first position (the ON, not the RUN or IGNITION positions). This should light up the whole dash, and show the CEL light up as well, even if there are no codes. This is to ensure light works.
• Check interior… Do all windows work? Is all interior trim in decent condition? Check driver\passenger mirrors\lights in mirrors, etc. Is the trim stock, or does it look like someone put sticker woodgrain in it? This shows maturity of previous owner… and odds are a younger owner will beat the car harder. Same applies to exterior with fake vents, etc.
• Check all seats, handles and make sure all cupholders, fold-up bits, etc work.
• Visual inspect wheels, rotors, brakes, tires, etc. Check to see treadwear on tires with a quarter and penny.
• If you can, get one of those magnet pens and get a piece of felt. Put the felt over the magnet pen and hold it there with a rubberband or something. Run it around the body. It should magnetize to every fender, etc. If it doesn't, the car has had body work in that area, and obviously been in an accident. (The bumpers don't count, as they are normally plastic)
• Check under hood. Look for leaks especially. Check coolant. If it looks milky, brownish, oily… car may have head gasket issue, which is never a simple job.
• Ask when was the last time all fluids were changed? Ask what kind of fluids.
• Check oil in engine on dipstick. Black? Could be Mobil1. Did owner say this was the case? Smell burnt? Oil being dark doesn’t mean its burnt. Mobil1 normally turns black within 1k miles, but still holds up like new.
• Start engine and let it idle for 10 minutes. Listen for any noises. Let the car warm up.
• While car is warming up, turn the steering wheel from 1 side, all the way to the other a few times. Do you hear a whining sound? Power steering pump may be on the way out.
• Test drive for about 30 minutes if possible. Drive hard, see if car seems to be holding up. Sometimes, issues don’t pop up until the engine is at its operating temperature.
• When up to highway speeds… do you feel vibrations? Do you feel vibrations when braking at highway speeds (40-60mph)? If so, rotors or wheels may be damaged and warped. Does the car pull to 1 side? If so, tie rods may need replacing.
• Get 1 opportunity, hopefully in an empty lot, to brake hard from 40 to 0. Does it stop in a straight line? Pull to the sides?
• Make a 1 point U-turn (not a 3 point). Do you hear clicking in the turn? If it’s a FWD car, the CV joints may be bad, which can sometimes require a full axle change.
• Ask about any types of warranty included, at least 30 day if its at a dealership. Make it VERY clear what it is for, make it even clearer that you WILL bring the car back if there is an issue
• Once you are done driving it, pop the hood and turn the car off. Check for any leaks. Dealerships will often power-wash an engine to remove any residue or obvious leaks so the car looks to be in better shape then it is.
• It may not be possible, but if it is, get it on a jack stand. Check to see if anything appears to be leaking. Grab the front wheels at a 3 and 9 o clock position. Shake them. Does it feel like its moving too much? Could be tie rods or wheel bearing. Grab at 12 and 6 and shake. If it feels like its moving too much, it could be a ball joint or control arm bushing. Grab sway bars and try moving them. If they move, sway bar links and bushings may need to be replaced.
And V specific:
Get up to 45mph in 5th and get up to 55ish, Do you hear whine? Shift to 6th and listen for whine as well. Some diff whine is normal. Too much \ too loud is no good.
Drive up to about 20mph in 1st and then clutch in and go to 4th. Does it clunk? Diff bushing is shot.
How hard is it to get into Reverse? Trans mount might be shot.
Check diff for leaks (vent leak or axle seal leak), and check engine rear seal if possible for leak.
Check clutch fluid. If its black and has particles floating in it, but the driver never 'drove it hard', he's full of ****. LOL
• Check dashboard to ensure CEL light works, and all lights work. Check signals for hyperflash (fast signal blink), etc. Put the key in, but only move it to the first position (the ON, not the RUN or IGNITION positions). This should light up the whole dash, and show the CEL light up as well, even if there are no codes. This is to ensure light works.
• Check interior… Do all windows work? Is all interior trim in decent condition? Check driver\passenger mirrors\lights in mirrors, etc. Is the trim stock, or does it look like someone put sticker woodgrain in it? This shows maturity of previous owner… and odds are a younger owner will beat the car harder. Same applies to exterior with fake vents, etc.
• Check all seats, handles and make sure all cupholders, fold-up bits, etc work.
• Visual inspect wheels, rotors, brakes, tires, etc. Check to see treadwear on tires with a quarter and penny.
• If you can, get one of those magnet pens and get a piece of felt. Put the felt over the magnet pen and hold it there with a rubberband or something. Run it around the body. It should magnetize to every fender, etc. If it doesn't, the car has had body work in that area, and obviously been in an accident. (The bumpers don't count, as they are normally plastic)
• Check under hood. Look for leaks especially. Check coolant. If it looks milky, brownish, oily… car may have head gasket issue, which is never a simple job.
• Ask when was the last time all fluids were changed? Ask what kind of fluids.
• Check oil in engine on dipstick. Black? Could be Mobil1. Did owner say this was the case? Smell burnt? Oil being dark doesn’t mean its burnt. Mobil1 normally turns black within 1k miles, but still holds up like new.
• Start engine and let it idle for 10 minutes. Listen for any noises. Let the car warm up.
• While car is warming up, turn the steering wheel from 1 side, all the way to the other a few times. Do you hear a whining sound? Power steering pump may be on the way out.
• Test drive for about 30 minutes if possible. Drive hard, see if car seems to be holding up. Sometimes, issues don’t pop up until the engine is at its operating temperature.
• When up to highway speeds… do you feel vibrations? Do you feel vibrations when braking at highway speeds (40-60mph)? If so, rotors or wheels may be damaged and warped. Does the car pull to 1 side? If so, tie rods may need replacing.
• Get 1 opportunity, hopefully in an empty lot, to brake hard from 40 to 0. Does it stop in a straight line? Pull to the sides?
• Make a 1 point U-turn (not a 3 point). Do you hear clicking in the turn? If it’s a FWD car, the CV joints may be bad, which can sometimes require a full axle change.
• Ask about any types of warranty included, at least 30 day if its at a dealership. Make it VERY clear what it is for, make it even clearer that you WILL bring the car back if there is an issue
• Once you are done driving it, pop the hood and turn the car off. Check for any leaks. Dealerships will often power-wash an engine to remove any residue or obvious leaks so the car looks to be in better shape then it is.
• It may not be possible, but if it is, get it on a jack stand. Check to see if anything appears to be leaking. Grab the front wheels at a 3 and 9 o clock position. Shake them. Does it feel like its moving too much? Could be tie rods or wheel bearing. Grab at 12 and 6 and shake. If it feels like its moving too much, it could be a ball joint or control arm bushing. Grab sway bars and try moving them. If they move, sway bar links and bushings may need to be replaced.
And V specific:
Get up to 45mph in 5th and get up to 55ish, Do you hear whine? Shift to 6th and listen for whine as well. Some diff whine is normal. Too much \ too loud is no good.
Drive up to about 20mph in 1st and then clutch in and go to 4th. Does it clunk? Diff bushing is shot.
How hard is it to get into Reverse? Trans mount might be shot.
Check diff for leaks (vent leak or axle seal leak), and check engine rear seal if possible for leak.
Check clutch fluid. If its black and has particles floating in it, but the driver never 'drove it hard', he's full of ****. LOL
02-12-2013, 01:03 PM
#17
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holy cow. great info. i did not ask the owner if he was on tech. i did not see the car in the for sale section here though, so i am guessing he is not. it is a 100% stock car by the looks of it and most of us here find a way to make the car their own instead of leave **** alone. it is a private sale so i want to be sure of what i am getting as there will be no returns.
02-12-2013, 03:35 PM
#18
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I have an '05 V for sale and the rear and motor mounts were replaced under warranty at 46k. Very nice solid car check out my Craigslist add. I am in PA about 2 1/2 hours away.
None of the issues these guys listing!
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/3610330786.html
None of the issues these guys listing!
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/3610330786.html
02-18-2013, 11:07 AM
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just wanted to say thanks. checked the car out. everything works. new rear. no whine. very good condition. good service records. i made an offer, he made one back and it seems fair and now paperwork just needs to be done.