I signed up for the customer preferred program at AMSOIL and am placing my first order and wanted to snag a few opinions before I complete the order. Also if anybody needs anything I'm happy to order it up for you, the average discount is 25% off retail.

I signed up mainly to order a new air filter, the discount price on the EAAU6080 is $51.00 + shipping/tax if anybody else is interested.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...ction-filters/


First question is anybody use their synthetic racing grease? I'm ordering up some geforce axles tomorrow and was considering trying this AMSOIL grease for the CV joints, but also considering Red Line's CV. Any opinions?

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...racing-grease/

or

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=82&pcid=17


Second question is on Diff Gear Oil. I have one quart of Redline 75w90 that I was going to throw in but am now considering picking up 2 quarts of AMSOIL Severe Gear 75w90. My diff has no whine and I've been running Royal Purple with no issues but have read good things about both Redline and AMSOIL in other threads on here. Any opinions?

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...e-gear-75w-90/


I've considered trying their Coolant Boost, but I'm thinking with my 160 T-stat there is no need and I may run the risk of running to cold.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...coolant-boost/


Lastly, anybody ever use or try their Engine Tranny Flush? I've always stayed away from any flushes or solvents in my engine's, but wanted to hear thoughts for you guys. The potential risks always outweigh the benefits IMHO.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...mission-flush/

Thanks fellas!

 

I used Lucas coolant boost in both cars (99 aurora, 04 V), it lowered my coolant full operating temp by about 7-10 degrees.

If you're not due for a diff fluid change, leave it alone until you are, IMO.

I see no reason to run the engine tranny flush. I also see no reason to not. Seems like its kinda stuck in my own personal purgatory.

I have royal purple synthetic ATF in my transmission. I'll be changing it out for coastal brand dino ATF this weekend. After talking to the guy at thegearbox, he told me these t56's don't like synthetic or synthetic blend ATF, and dino gets you better results. I'll be in position to confirm this weekend.

 

Hahaha, welcome to my world! I'm way to **** about choosing the "best" products for everything on my car, spend way too much time trying to decide and researching before I buy anything...

That's all good feedback, I'll be interested to hear your results with the trans. I put Mobil 1 ATF in mine based on all the threads I read that said that was the only synthetic that Tremec recommended. But now I'm considering Synchromesh, maybe this?

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...n-fluid-5w-30/

 

As per usual, I recommend 3 qt Redline D4 ATF + 1 qt Redline MTL 70W80 GL-4 mix in transmission. Tried Royal Purple, Mobil 1 ATF, and a couple other community favorites and was very unsatisfied.

 

Listen to Fuzzy,

I had put in this recommended mixture in the tranny of my V1 and it shifted much more smoothly.

 

Sounds good I will give this a shot, after changing to the Mobil 1 ATF my shifting is terrible.

 

And I bet it sounds like a rock grinder at low RPM too.

 

Running Pennzoil Syncromesh and this stuff is great. It is what GM used to brand as GM synchromesh. my personal favorite atleast

 

I just did the same thing with amsoil. I got the severe 75W90 gear oil for the diff, the Torqdrive ATF for the trans and some dot4 brake fluid while I was at it since I have a set of SS lines to install and the stock fluid was looking rather dark. Won't be installing it until spring though. I just changed my engine oil before winter so I'll be keeping the mobile1 in there until it's time to change again. Never had any issues with the Mobile 1 engine oil and the longer delco filter.

 

Fuzzy, just wondering why u suggest to put the one bottle of MTL in with the 3 bottles redline 75w90? I ask because I'm about to do my tranny fluid change as soon as my 4 quarts redline 75w90 get here.

 

Because all ATFs are too slippery for proper manual transmission synchro engagement. If you've got an especially old and/or battered T56, you can up the ratio to 50/50, but don't go beyond that (the resultant mixture will be too thick for the T56).

 

Great tip! Thanks. My car has 73k on it currently and the shifting is a bit notchy sometimes, especially reverse that even grinds sometimes going in (even with a 4th to reverse shift). This is why I'm trying the synthetic to see if it clears up. What is the average life/mileage on one of these T56's?

 

P.S. It was really notchy with the katech short shifter that it came with. That may have been a bushing problem but I'm unsure. I had the dealer put a brand new stocker back in an it cleared up a lot. Still doesn't like to go into first at times, has even popped out of first before. Doesn't easily float in sixth either, wants to go into fourth from fifth. I have to really direct it into sixth. This is my first T56 so I don't know how they're supposed to feel.

 

The Katech shifter isn't causing the problems you're describing--it's merely making it more obvious. Your transmission probably needs a rebuild (your synchro teeth sound they're severely worn), but I suspect that a sagging transmission mount is also contributing to your problems. You may also need a new shift detent ball--the old one may be jammed.

I recommend picking up a Revshift transmission insert, the various shifter linkage bushing fixes, your Katech shifter, and installing all of it while you're doing the T56 oil.

 

Thanks fuzzy, ya if like to get that katech back in if it were working smoothly.

 

If you're getting grinding, you lost likely have a battered blocker ring.

 

If you're getting grinding, you have a worn out synchro.


DO NOT PUT GEAR OIL IN YOUR T56. EVER.

read this thread

 

How can it be possible that the designer and builder of our transmissions overlooked using regular gear oil? Answer: they didn't. Don't use gear oil cause you read it on the internet or because you have no skills to do anything to your car except change it's fluids. There are chemicals in gear oil that attack certain metals for lack of a better term. Here is a example: use GL-5 gear oil instead of GL-3 or 4 and your trans with brass synchros won't shift properly. Synthetic is a no no as by design there has to be friction involved in the shifting process. The synchro or blocker has to slow down the successive gear and match its speed so you can shift. If there is not enough friction shifting can become more difficult. This is not only from things I have read but from real world experience. There is no such thing as trans repair in a bottle and a new or fresh trans with plain ATF shifts way better than a old one full of magical snake oil, save your money for a overhaul/upgrade.

 

Blocking rings are a part of the synchronizer assembly. There's so much retardation in the thread you posted that I wouldn't recommend wasting your time reading any of it.

http://books.google.com/books?id=TsB...ed=0CDAQ6AEwAA

 

Interesting... I've been running AMSOIL Synthetic in my trans and I feel it could shift better... gonna try your combo... hope it works!