Chrismikeb

iTrader: (2)

Thats a good idea. I ended up buying it from advanced auto, but that sucker is not coming off with a wrench. Now I need to rent an Impact gun.

Chrismikeb

iTrader: (2)

Won't come off with a cordless impact either. Looks like I'm fucked. I'm not even sure it that seal is even bad. When I drained the fluid exactly 4quarts came out of the tranny. Isn't it supposed to be a little less like 3.75? It wasn't super old maybe it was over filled and it was forcing itself out around that seal when it gets hot?

triangle123

I currently need to replace the rear shaft seal and am all the way down to that triangular piece, i have a 30mm deep socket but can not in any way or form remove that huge bolt. Is there something i am missing or any advice to be given? That fact that I am so close is frustrating, any help is appreciated again, thanks.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

Get a real impact gun.. You can try to put the trans in gear and use a long breaker bar or make a yoke holder out of flat stock.

Chrismikeb

iTrader: (2)

That's the same point I got stuck at. It doesn't help the nut is so shallow. I didn't have enough room to get good leverage, no compressor for a impact, had to give up and took it to G-Force. Was pretty pissed about it though...

ryridesmotox

If you have a compressor, an air driven impact is much more powerful. I have a middling 1/2 inched drive and it has like 650lbsft of torque at peak. That's like minimum that will take bolts like that off

gatesjeff33

The Tool Shop brand corded electric impact driver at Menards managed to take off the 30mm nut no problem. Then it was put to the test and managed to take that nut off a second time with red loctite on it. I managed to get one for $35 on sale. They run $70 normally.

I also used it to remove the pinion nuts on my front and rear diffs on my Jeep wrangler with no issues. I have been very pleasantly surprised by this impact driver. It's only drawback is it's heavy and really big.

gatesjeff33

Also, I almost forgot some important advice! The reason that I had to remove that nut a second time is because I dented the seal when install it. It didn't take much to mess it up.

You need to use a seal installation tool. I have found that 2" PVC piping fits perfectly.

Also, You will need some grey RTV(high torque stuff) to use on the splines of the shaft to prevent any leaks there. You will see remnants of the old grey stuff on there.

Oh, and those exhaust rubber hangers come off way easier if you spray them with some penetrating oil or silicone lubricant.

Oh, and you will probably need to torch the exhaust bolts until they are glowing orange to get those removed. A 15mm rachet wrench is the perfect wrench for those bolts, but not necessary.

Oh, and if the bolts that connect the drive shaft to the differential are completely threaded and have no shoulder on them, you should discard them and replace them with new bolts that have shoulder. They are M10 course threaded 50mm length and take a 8mm allen socket to remove.