Gen 1 CTS-V Engine Removal/Pull R&R LS6
03-22-2013, 09:22 AM
#24
Teching In
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: UK
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would do rings also. IF you plan on doing any major power mods then yes upgrade your pistons and rods. LS engines are pretty stong to a point. My GTO has 600+hp at the crank with stock pistons and rods and I'm not afraid to push alittle more out of it. Seeing that there are folks pushing alot more than that at the wheels. Doing the rings is a longevity thing.
03-22-2013, 10:25 AM
#25
TECH Fanatic
Maybe I read you incorrectly, but it sounded like being your DD you're not really contemplating power adders in the future. If so, I wouldn't do the forged internals. Feeling ridges with your finger nail on the bearings, however, would cause me to replace all of them for sure. Ques: Were you using any oil prior to the teardown? How do the bores look? If they've still got honing marks on them and there's no oil consumption, I'd leave the rings alone.
Again, if you're looking at more power, then a rebuild with a wider scope on replacing components would seem appropriate.
Good luck! You've got a lot of guys watching/supporting you!
Again, if you're looking at more power, then a rebuild with a wider scope on replacing components would seem appropriate.
Good luck! You've got a lot of guys watching/supporting you!
03-22-2013, 01:30 PM
#26
That is a bummer. I can honestly say that I've never seen a lifter failure like that before. It's a good thing you tore it down though.
As far as what to do, it all depends on what your goals are. If you want it to remain a fun reliable daily driver, I'd just freshen it up with new bearings and I'd probably do rings since you're in it that far anyway. Since you have to replace the cam, might as well get a nice mild cam for it too. That'd get you a good 20+rwhp, an entirely fresh motor and stay on the relatively cheap side. Then once you have it back together, any bolt-ons you do will get further benefit from the cam already in there.
If you're wanting to do it big even if it weren't in the immediate future, now is the time to do it.
As far as what to do, it all depends on what your goals are. If you want it to remain a fun reliable daily driver, I'd just freshen it up with new bearings and I'd probably do rings since you're in it that far anyway. Since you have to replace the cam, might as well get a nice mild cam for it too. That'd get you a good 20+rwhp, an entirely fresh motor and stay on the relatively cheap side. Then once you have it back together, any bolt-ons you do will get further benefit from the cam already in there.
If you're wanting to do it big even if it weren't in the immediate future, now is the time to do it.
Cam/springs/retainers/chromolly pushrods/ls7 lifters already in the mail. On top of that headers already showed up, and LS7 clutch/flywheel setup on its way too. The situation I'm in is that the crank must come out to be cleaned up, no doubt about that in my eyes. Its not terrible or anything, but certainly not perfect.
There seem to be so many variables in it. I figure my best and smartest bet is to take the shortblock to a shop and have them clean it all, polish the crank, install new bearings and rings and go from there.
03-22-2013, 09:16 PM
#27
Dropped the short block off at the machine shop today. Reason being the following:
Crank needs to be removed regardless to be polished. That being said all new bearings need to go in. If all new bearings need to go in the shop needs to have the rods too. If they need the rods, the pistons have to be removed from the block. At that point you've gotta do rings and to do rings you've gotta hone the block lightly to get the rings to seal. Its all basically a domino effect. Even if I just have them polish the crank its a two week turnaround time (coming into race season so they are backed up). Full assembly of the short block is only $300, so I'd rather just pay it to know its all done correctly and ready to just drop heads on and go.
They will be polishing the crank, cleaning the entire short block, providing and installing new main and rod bearings, honing the block and providing and installing new piston rings. They will install the oil pump, cam, timing chain, front and rear main seal and ARP rod bolts that I provide.
All of this is quoted to set me back under $1,000. Not my favorite way to spend money but in the end I've got a brand new engine.
Any input?
Crank needs to be removed regardless to be polished. That being said all new bearings need to go in. If all new bearings need to go in the shop needs to have the rods too. If they need the rods, the pistons have to be removed from the block. At that point you've gotta do rings and to do rings you've gotta hone the block lightly to get the rings to seal. Its all basically a domino effect. Even if I just have them polish the crank its a two week turnaround time (coming into race season so they are backed up). Full assembly of the short block is only $300, so I'd rather just pay it to know its all done correctly and ready to just drop heads on and go.
They will be polishing the crank, cleaning the entire short block, providing and installing new main and rod bearings, honing the block and providing and installing new piston rings. They will install the oil pump, cam, timing chain, front and rear main seal and ARP rod bolts that I provide.
All of this is quoted to set me back under $1,000. Not my favorite way to spend money but in the end I've got a brand new engine.
Any input?
04-10-2014, 04:13 PM
#33
Teching In
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would have thought so, just didn't see it in the thread. I'll find out this weekend where I stand when I pull the rocker covers and intake and drain the oil.
Got a feeling I'm in the same boat.
Got a feeling I'm in the same boat.
