Port the cylinder heads

 

I agree with Forcfed93. It's apart.....

 

If you're there and have the money no reason to not build it. Once and done, good luck with the build.

 

I would do rings also. IF you plan on doing any major power mods then yes upgrade your pistons and rods. LS engines are pretty stong to a point. My GTO has 600+hp at the crank with stock pistons and rods and I'm not afraid to push alittle more out of it. Seeing that there are folks pushing alot more than that at the wheels. Doing the rings is a longevity thing.

 

Maybe I read you incorrectly, but it sounded like being your DD you're not really contemplating power adders in the future. If so, I wouldn't do the forged internals. Feeling ridges with your finger nail on the bearings, however, would cause me to replace all of them for sure. Ques: Were you using any oil prior to the teardown? How do the bores look? If they've still got honing marks on them and there's no oil consumption, I'd leave the rings alone.

Again, if you're looking at more power, then a rebuild with a wider scope on replacing components would seem appropriate.

Good luck! You've got a lot of guys watching/supporting you!

 

Cam/springs/retainers/chromolly pushrods/ls7 lifters already in the mail. On top of that headers already showed up, and LS7 clutch/flywheel setup on its way too. The situation I'm in is that the crank must come out to be cleaned up, no doubt about that in my eyes. Its not terrible or anything, but certainly not perfect.

There seem to be so many variables in it. I figure my best and smartest bet is to take the shortblock to a shop and have them clean it all, polish the crank, install new bearings and rings and go from there.

 

Dropped the short block off at the machine shop today. Reason being the following:

Crank needs to be removed regardless to be polished. That being said all new bearings need to go in. If all new bearings need to go in the shop needs to have the rods too. If they need the rods, the pistons have to be removed from the block. At that point you've gotta do rings and to do rings you've gotta hone the block lightly to get the rings to seal. Its all basically a domino effect. Even if I just have them polish the crank its a two week turnaround time (coming into race season so they are backed up). Full assembly of the short block is only $300, so I'd rather just pay it to know its all done correctly and ready to just drop heads on and go.

They will be polishing the crank, cleaning the entire short block, providing and installing new main and rod bearings, honing the block and providing and installing new piston rings. They will install the oil pump, cam, timing chain, front and rear main seal and ARP rod bolts that I provide.

All of this is quoted to set me back under $1,000. Not my favorite way to spend money but in the end I've got a brand new engine.

Any input?

 

Have you ever had it on a dyno?

Good Luck!

 

Nope, bought the car 2 months ago with 89k miles. Fun stuff right?

 

Are they going to balance the rotating assy. as well?

 

Noob here, but think I might have the same problem in my sandrail engine. Did you have to replace the camshaft?

 

With the lifter tore up that bad, he would have had to replace the cam.

 

I would have thought so, just didn't see it in the thread. I'll find out this weekend where I stand when I pull the rocker covers and intake and drain the oil.

Got a feeling I'm in the same boat.

 

Anyone done this with a V?