never

Hey guys,

Have a 2004 V and I just swapped in a new clutch, pressure plate and single mass flywheel. I reused the stock slave (no leaks or issues) and installed the kit supplied spacer. Everything went in fine but now I have some issues...
- engine off, I can get into all gears easily
- engine running, resistance getting into all gears
- engine running, could initially get into reverse but now it just grinds, can feel the shaft spinning. Can only use reverse if I shut it off, select reverse, then fire it back up.
- when I first discovered this, bled the system repeatedly, it got into gear a bit easier but reverse got worse
- pedal feels good
- clutch engages pretty close to the floor
- engine running, clutch pedal in, if I push the shifter into a gear (say 1st), the car will rock forward a bit

So I don't know if there is anymore air in the system but the clutch definitely isn't completely disengaging. Should I keep bleeding more, any tips? My only other thought is I need a shim or thicker spacer for the slave. Any other ideas?

I haven't driven the car yet, only just back and forth in the garage. Part of the issue is my driveway is long and still has a bunch of snow/ice on it. The V only has summer tires. I'll be able to get to the road but I won't be able to get back up. So I'm not sure if some miles will help the problem at all.

Thanks!

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Your clutch is not fully disengaging. You're damaging your transmission with every shift (ask me how I know).

I've said this so many times that I apologize if I come off as irritable, but here it is: never EVER buy the Katech spacer. It's not long enough. Not only that, the throw-out bearing on the LS2 slave is narrower than the throw-out bearing on the LS7 slave, resulting in uneven pressure plate actuation and vibration. The solution:

1. Get a LS7 slave. PowerTorque CS2529 from O'Reilly ($92).

2. While you're down there, check your torque settings on the pressure plate. If you go beyond 52 ft-lbs, the fingers on the pressure plate will begin to retract and prevent you from fully disengaging the clutch. I know that a lot of people get by without paying heed to torque settings, but this is one area where it really, really matters.

Bacon

The only way to know that your clutch with function properly is to measure the offsets before you install - exactly what Fuzzy is getting at. Do a search on Clutch "A" and "B" measurements. Something is off and you will kill your tranny in short order if you keep driving it the way it is.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

what clutch did u get?

Zexell

iTrader: (1)

Definitely get the LS7 slave. I just did my swap to single mass and torqued my PP to 54 ft lbs, and I also get a small "rock" engaging first gear only. No grinding, everything else is smooth, but when I get time in the next month or so, I'll probably tear it back down and re-torque to 52 ft lbs.

pearsonmx6

Really you think 2 ft lbs is going to make any difference at all?

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

It will move a tenth or two from 46 ft-lbs, depending on the manufacturer. Given the issue you're having, I recommend torquing to 46-48 ft-lbs and using blue LOCTITE on the bolts.

Everyone on this forum should have one of these in the end of their remote bleeder to aid in solo bleeding:

never

What are you guys getting for your A (and B) measurement on your clutch setup?

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I didn't record mine, but I remember that my clutch fingers and slave throwout bearing were only about a millimeter apart when the pedal was totally released.