New clutch install - problems!
#1
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New clutch install - problems!
Hey guys,
Have a 2004 V and I just swapped in a new clutch, pressure plate and single mass flywheel. I reused the stock slave (no leaks or issues) and installed the kit supplied spacer. Everything went in fine but now I have some issues...
- engine off, I can get into all gears easily
- engine running, resistance getting into all gears
- engine running, could initially get into reverse but now it just grinds, can feel the shaft spinning. Can only use reverse if I shut it off, select reverse, then fire it back up.
- when I first discovered this, bled the system repeatedly, it got into gear a bit easier but reverse got worse
- pedal feels good
- clutch engages pretty close to the floor
- engine running, clutch pedal in, if I push the shifter into a gear (say 1st), the car will rock forward a bit
So I don't know if there is anymore air in the system but the clutch definitely isn't completely disengaging. Should I keep bleeding more, any tips? My only other thought is I need a shim or thicker spacer for the slave. Any other ideas?
I haven't driven the car yet, only just back and forth in the garage. Part of the issue is my driveway is long and still has a bunch of snow/ice on it. The V only has summer tires. I'll be able to get to the road but I won't be able to get back up. So I'm not sure if some miles will help the problem at all.
Thanks!
Have a 2004 V and I just swapped in a new clutch, pressure plate and single mass flywheel. I reused the stock slave (no leaks or issues) and installed the kit supplied spacer. Everything went in fine but now I have some issues...
- engine off, I can get into all gears easily
- engine running, resistance getting into all gears
- engine running, could initially get into reverse but now it just grinds, can feel the shaft spinning. Can only use reverse if I shut it off, select reverse, then fire it back up.
- when I first discovered this, bled the system repeatedly, it got into gear a bit easier but reverse got worse
- pedal feels good
- clutch engages pretty close to the floor
- engine running, clutch pedal in, if I push the shifter into a gear (say 1st), the car will rock forward a bit
So I don't know if there is anymore air in the system but the clutch definitely isn't completely disengaging. Should I keep bleeding more, any tips? My only other thought is I need a shim or thicker spacer for the slave. Any other ideas?
I haven't driven the car yet, only just back and forth in the garage. Part of the issue is my driveway is long and still has a bunch of snow/ice on it. The V only has summer tires. I'll be able to get to the road but I won't be able to get back up. So I'm not sure if some miles will help the problem at all.
Thanks!
#2
Your clutch is not fully disengaging. You're damaging your transmission with every shift (ask me how I know).
I've said this so many times that I apologize if I come off as irritable, but here it is: never EVER buy the Katech spacer. It's not long enough. Not only that, the throw-out bearing on the LS2 slave is narrower than the throw-out bearing on the LS7 slave, resulting in uneven pressure plate actuation and vibration. The solution:
1. Get a LS7 slave. PowerTorque CS2529 from O'Reilly ($92).
2. While you're down there, check your torque settings on the pressure plate. If you go beyond 52 ft-lbs, the fingers on the pressure plate will begin to retract and prevent you from fully disengaging the clutch. I know that a lot of people get by without paying heed to torque settings, but this is one area where it really, really matters.
I've said this so many times that I apologize if I come off as irritable, but here it is: never EVER buy the Katech spacer. It's not long enough. Not only that, the throw-out bearing on the LS2 slave is narrower than the throw-out bearing on the LS7 slave, resulting in uneven pressure plate actuation and vibration. The solution:
1. Get a LS7 slave. PowerTorque CS2529 from O'Reilly ($92).
2. While you're down there, check your torque settings on the pressure plate. If you go beyond 52 ft-lbs, the fingers on the pressure plate will begin to retract and prevent you from fully disengaging the clutch. I know that a lot of people get by without paying heed to torque settings, but this is one area where it really, really matters.
#3
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The only way to know that your clutch with function properly is to measure the offsets before you install - exactly what Fuzzy is getting at. Do a search on Clutch "A" and "B" measurements. Something is off and you will kill your tranny in short order if you keep driving it the way it is.
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Definitely get the LS7 slave. I just did my swap to single mass and torqued my PP to 54 ft lbs, and I also get a small "rock" engaging first gear only. No grinding, everything else is smooth, but when I get time in the next month or so, I'll probably tear it back down and re-torque to 52 ft lbs.
#6
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Definitely get the LS7 slave. I just did my swap to single mass and torqued my PP to 54 ft lbs, and I also get a small "rock" engaging first gear only. No grinding, everything else is smooth, but when I get time in the next month or so, I'll probably tear it back down and re-torque to 52 ft lbs.
#7
Definitely get the LS7 slave. I just did my swap to single mass and torqued my PP to 54 ft lbs, and I also get a small "rock" engaging first gear only. No grinding, everything else is smooth, but when I get time in the next month or so, I'll probably tear it back down and re-torque to 52 ft lbs.
Everyone on this forum should have one of these in the end of their remote bleeder to aid in solo bleeding:
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