etcts-v

Dealer told me our stock alternators were 150 amp and so did Manic Electric whom I bought my 200amp one from a few years back.

http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/hioualcacts.html

98cobra

iTrader: (32)

My money is on the stock alternator lasting longer then any aftermarket rebuilt truck alternator. 99% of the non oem rebuilds are junk.

98cobra

iTrader: (32)

I want to say you are right on this too, but I'm not 100% sure...

DMM

Anyone else hoping for just one more EE to weigh in on the matter? Someone had to say it lol.

While this has been a very informative thread, I don't see a benefit from the alternator change unless you have installed additional high current consuming equipment. I would think 150 amps is more than adequate for our applications with the upgraded wiring that you have specified and a really good battery as the majority of higher current accessories do not fall under continuous use.

This reminds me of the '95 Chevy S10 Blazers. Being the first model year, the GM Engineers (in their infinite wisdom) decided to source three separate high current accessories from a single fusable link as they anticipated all three would never be used at the same time. Thank god they have come a long way since then.

Edit: The PCM controls the regulator through "L" terminal duty cycle. Maybe HPT or EFI Live could be asked to include this parameter.

etcts-v

Reason I had mine replaced (beyond the fact that I have 4 audio amps, head rest monitors, aftermarket video head unit and lighting upgrades) was my OEM one kept throwing a "battery not charging" code on the NAV screen, had it in the stealearship 4 times trying to find out why, alternator was charging so they replaced all the PCM wiring up to the alternator but it kept throwing the codes so they told me the circuit board on the alternator itself was bad. The 200 amp one fixed the issue and has been running like a champ since 2008.

Sssnake

Yes, I resemble that remark but I also have done high power car audio for decades at this point (professionally for a couple of years - very little CONSISTENT money in installation)and HO alternators, battery isolators, battery banks, and power/ground distribution is something that I have worked for a long time. The pure DC assumption tends to get you in trouble when you are building systems at 10KW or more.

I definitely agree in almost all apps. I have been trying to decide how big to go with my battery once I get it relocated. 2KW of class D power for the audio and a blower/cam/heads/exhaust/tune mean that I need something to make sure the voltage doesn't drop at the fuel pump and lean out the mix if the stereo is up. Now most of the time if I am beating on it the stereo is OFF but there are a few road trips to the dragon, cherohala, moonshire 28, and etc. where I like to have some tunes while doing some somewhat spirited driving. So in my case a larger battery and BAP seem prudent. I will likely go with a larger alt because I can (adds safety margin) once mine dies.

One more comment on this, the "stock 150 amp" alt is likely down around the 105 A Fuzzy mentioned. It is not uncommon for the Big 3 auto manufacturers to rate their alts under "ideal" conditions which are rarely seen in use.

Good to know. I haven't jumped in on electrical yet as I am trying to finish up the hp mods right now. I knew the Hondas (and my wifes Saturn Vue Redline which has a Honda engine and tranny from the factory) used a computer controlled charge signal but was unsure about the V. I am still doubtful that it would adjust quickly enough to prevent knock/detonation but maybe...

BAPs aren't that expensive and are a LOT cheaper than having to rebuild the bottom end. As I haven't gone forged bottom I am just a little risk averse at this point.

DarkCharisma

Thread dig ...

Anyone ever successfully used this altnerator and an adapter bracket on a LS6?

54inches

iTrader: (4)

What he said.

I would rather a thread dig/necro than a million of the same questions asked over and over.

You can teach an old dog new tricks, but not a newb. They are so dumb.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

I just got my "new" alternator:

http://fastlanepartssupply.com/shop/...mp-alternator/

Here is the deal, the V1 alternator is unique (swell!) and the only thing they could do was take the OEM housing and fill it with new guts and bearings.

I don't care as long as it puts out the juice as advertised.

At least I know it will fit.

DarkCharisma

Thanks ... I think?

Any thoughts on the LS6 situation with an aftermarket alt like this?

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Thoughts; I think anything better for our cars is cool. I don't seem to need it right now, but I will need to replace the alternator very soon as I am at 125k and everything else seems to be letting go. lol

DarkCharisma

hah well I guess I will just have to maybe order one of these brackets and compare it to the existing alt bracket to see if it'll work. Thinking since maybe Fuzzy's application is for the LS2, which uses a diff alt (and presumably a different bracket), it might not work for us LS6 guys to buy the aftermarket--and much less expensive alt and throw it on a bracket.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

I thought about doing that to and now understand your question. Sorry about that.

Or find a core and try to switch out the internals as previously mentioned.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Holy thread resurrection but thus is good stuff.

Just to sure up a few things for us simple folk....

The ad244 upgrade might not work on the ls6 cars and if we want something beefier we'll have to build it ourselves. Any way to easily upgrade an ls6 to an ls2?


The big 3 are going to be a given if you're installing an Aftermarket fuel pump or big stereo.

Don't spill ps fluid on your alternator if doing a pump change.

Abandon the stock charging wire running from the alternator to the battery and huge seems to be about big enough. Route it over the engine instead of behind so your headers won't cook it.

My snap-on ring terminal crimpers have been totally outclassed and I'll probably have some of my cables professionally crimped at my local auto electric rebuilder in lieu of breaking into Area 51 to use their stuff.

What is the deka upgrade?

54inches

iTrader: (4)

What about these guys.....

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/most-popular-products.html

cliffyh

I bought my Alternator from ohio generator.
Call them up, tell them what your have and your power goals for stereo, they can custom build you one. I forget what i paid for mine but it comes with build sheet. Worked amazing.

http://www.ohiogen.com/

I want to get a few other basic upgrades for my car before i upgrade alt but plan on doing it eventually. have alpine type x components to swap into front and rear of car along with 2 12w7 subs.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

It was mentioned on another thread that the ad244 doesn't have provisions for the extra alternator bracket that comes on the V1. There has been some discussion as to whether or not that bracket is really needed but I think most of feel that GM wouldn't have wasted the money on it if it didn't serve some purpose.

So....one of the members had an alternator built for his application and it came with a slightly smaller pulley to turn it a bit faster at idle. He said he had good success with this setup and the big 3. I'll post a link if I can find it......

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

It might have been mine.

The bracket is a very bad way for grounding and the rear mount prevents the bracket from flexing and provides a better mount and ground.

MANTECH sticks a slightly smaller pulley on it to help with charging at idle.

xenergyx

iTrader: (3)

or you guys could just be bosses and get a 300A alt from ohio gen who specialize in car audio aftermarket alts my birth cert with my alt is 303

69-chvl

iTrader: (11)

Thread revival.

I have a question for those in the know....

The OE charge wire coming off the alternator on all my GM vehicles is a small(er) fusible link wire. Same thing on my 96 Mustang...its actually 2 fusible links for redundancy. The GM alternators are 145a and the Stang 130a. Why are we putting oversized wires when the factory doesn't seem to feel its needed?