FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Just to let you know, I'm in the process of doing a Big 3 upgrade and a new alternator, and figured I'd list a couple of things that I found:

- It's easy to find a remanufactured AD244 on eBay for about $80. Just make sure you get the correct bracket style. Compared to the stock alternator, which I believe is a 105 amp, CS130 or equivalent, the AD244 rated for 145 amps. While this may not sound like a whole lot of difference, the key is how much power those alternators can deliver at X RPM.



Typically, the CS130 puts out 20 amps at 1000 alternator RPM (crank pulley = 5", alternator pulley = 2" --> 500 engine RPM = 1250 alternator RPM), 60 amps at about 1900 RPM, and doesn't reach its rated 105 amp output until much later--about 5000 RPM.



By contrast, the AD244 is more like the CS144, but even better because it was designed to work with lower-RPM truck motors. Since I couldn't find a OEM AD244 curve, take this CS144 graph and mentally shift it down by 250 alternator RPM:



- For wire, get stranded 1/0 copper welding wire. Skip the audio stuff-it's all cheap and overpriced. I recommend Royal Excelene 1/0, which you can buy from WireandSupply.com for $2.25 per foot (linkage here). This is what I'm using for cable lengths for the moment--to be safe, I purchased 10 feet of red cable and 5 feet of black cable. Probably overkill, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.



- Stainless steel sleeving is optional, but adds mechanical protection and a certain cool factor. This thread identifies that 1/2" sleeving is appropriate for 1/0 cable. I wound up purchasing Flexo Stainless Steel XC from WireCare.com. Since it also provides good EMI protection, I may eventually use it on my spark plug wires.



- The last, and hardest part (translation: I'm still trying to figure it out) is finding terminals for the battery and ground connections. I'd love to just throw up some Thomas & Betts silver plated, solid copper cable lug part numbers (MIL-STD stuff), but those are intended to make connections to busbar--not batteries and car bodies. I also need to find brackets. When I know more, I'll try to update this thread.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Correction/clarification: the stock alternator is a AD230, which is functionally equivalent to the CS130. Both are rated for 105 amps. Both have approximately the same power output curve.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Word to the wise: be leery of ucpautoproducts on eBay. They sold me a AD244 that was missing the rear bearing, and then when I complained, they sent me another AD244 that someone had apparently attempted to spray-paint. In both cases, I had to send them back.

I may need to amend this post to say something like, "just buy an new, upgraded 200 amp AD244 for $140."

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

Fuzzy, is the point of this to safely allow a UD balancer?

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

No. I suppose you could, but there would be no point, since a bigger alternator will require more force to turn. You'll be back where you started.

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

I see. This is an impressive write up, but for what purpose would one want an upgraded alternator?

DougNuts

iTrader: (1)

Probably in order to power enough onboard computers to land a 60's era spacecraft.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

As you know, the heavier gauge cable reduces voltage drop from the alternator to the battery by about a volt. Depending on which model AD244 you get, the voltage regulator set point will be 14.2 VDC (D202XHD) or 14.8 VDC (D200XHD)--slightly higher than the 13.8 VDC setpoint on the stock AD230 regulator.

Capacity is also a big one. On my car, this is mostly an upgrade to support lighting and dual inline fuel pumps. Right now my battery voltage is hovering around 12.7 VDC and I've killed two batteries in the last year. That indicates that my alternator can't keep up. Here's what I'm using to calculate the required rating of the new alternator:

- 250W for all standard onboard electronics
- 2x55W headlight ballasts
- 2x35W foglight ballasts
- 6x10W CCFL ballasts
- 4x25W LED brake lights
- 4x12W LED side markers
- 2x12W LED license plate lights
- The 9500ci draws about 50W at idle
- The upgraded stereo, including a PA15-VETTE, draws about 250W when active
- A Walbro GSS 342 (255 lph) draws 120W at full power and an Aeromotive 11142 (340 lph) consumes 165W at full power. When supercharged, I will probably end up running dual Aeromotive pumps (330W).

With everything on, the car should draw 1292W (97.88A @ 13.2VDC) at WOT. For longetivity, I want 50% margin on the peak RPM power rating of the alternator, which means that I need 97.88A * 1.5 = 146.82A. A standard 145A AD244 should just be able to provide that at 1800 engine (4500 alternator) RPM.

DarkCharisma

Tagged. My alt started whining off and on since temps have been fluctuating; I always like to upgrade when replacing, and if I can save some money in the process that's a big plus.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

yup. I'm on board with this. That is, once my stocker ***** the bed. May do the battery relocate at the same time.

garrettg

iTrader: (1)

Is the stock alternator not really 150amp?
ACDelco 25766345

UnsafeAtAnySpd

Wish I would've known about this before. I've killed two alternators (one was just wear and tear, the other was my fault. Spilled PS fluid all over it swapping out my PS pump for the first time. That was broke too).

54inches

iTrader: (4)

I like it fuzzy. With my stereo alone, I am sure to kill a battery and alternator fairly soon.

01_SuperSlow

iTrader: (7)

Yes. The stock alternator and all aftermarket replacements for the V have an output amperage of 150.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

The most typical aftermarket replacement for the stock alternator is the Tuff Stuff 8232 (105A). The older AC Delco replacements are also 105 amps. I don't know when they upgraded the internals to 150 amps (probably just rounding from 145 amps), but based on the available evidence, our alternators appear to be 105 amp units.

When I yank the alternator again, I'll check the rectifier bridge and let you know what the amperage is. It's probably just the old DR44001. What you want is the D150120, which is good for over 200 amps when paired with a suitable rotor. The DR4002HD is also acceptable--it's good for 145 amps, and it's what I received in those refurbished units.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Hi-jack:

And for those not hip:

Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. Some people replace the factory wiring; others add additional cables to the factory wiring. This instruction is to add cables to existing OEM wiring.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I'm not going to leave the stock wiring running in parallel.

While the equivalent impedance would be even less (read: lower voltage drop), the effect would be minor because the impedance differences between the parallel paths would be huge and Ohm's Law would dictate that barely any current would flow in the stock wiring. Also, the resultant mess of wiring and questionable durability of the stock grounding connections would make future diagnostics difficult.

Plus, the EMI shielding benefit contributed the stainless steel sheathing would be negated by the (I assume) unshielded stock wiring.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

I agree, but unless you have the engine out and spend alot of time staring at ground wires; leaving the stock grounds would be fine for most people.

It also provides SOME insurance in case there was catastrophic failure, albeit it rare, in your new lines.

With that said, if I was cleaning up the engine bay and moving/hiding my computers or something of that nature; then yes, removal and replacement would be imminent.

Hell, I don't even know where the grounds are on these vehicles.

Without replacing the alternator, how much V gain at idle do you think you would get in your application; theoretically of course. .5-1volt? No need to talk to Mr. Ohm; just bench racing here.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Stuff I found:

alternators with dual/triple rects:
http://alternatorparts.com/ad230-ad2...44-alternators

Conversion on S10:
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f27/ho...r-80-a-376788/

Skidmarcx

Nice info here... I think steady output at idle is key.... Better for virtually everything on the car... Correct me if I'm wrong, but can't too big of a wire drop the voltage? If there is a higher potential for flow that is?