Originally Posted by brack86svo

To do a spacer, isn't that going to throw off the alignment of the jackshaft? The back of the shaft bolts to the HU but, the front bolts to the manifold. How are you going to make everything line back up? I like the idea. More volume should make more power.

Originally Posted by punishmentcycle

wont really know till i get it apart.. i can machine new brackets if i have to or sneak a spacer on both side between the lower mani and heads..wont know until i start the r&d

Originally Posted by punishmentcycle

Sweet man.. Deff interested in using the brackets for measurements. I changed my jack shaft bearings when I did my pulleys.. Ended up going with a bearing rated at 22k. The Maggie bearings are only rated to 12k. No wonder they go out from time to time lol

Originally Posted by brack86svo

It's back together. I'm just shy of 8 psi with a 3.1 front pulley. I wish I would have done this without breaking anything but, that's part of game.

I'm going to throw the 2.8 pulley on the front and see what the AFR's do. I'm at 11.49 with the 3.1, so I may be ok.

Originally Posted by 2007V

So are your rears 1:1 or something different? Stock head/cam/exhaust ls6? I think just around 8 or 8.5 will be a good boost pressure to shoot for. How does it feel?

Edit: my two, 3.2 rear pullies came in yesterday. The tool and front 2.9 pulley should be in on Tuesday. If I get some free time this weekend ey are going on!

Originally Posted by punishmentcycle

That's a pretty big step down.. Watch those afr's! 1:1 rears right?

Originally Posted by kyoytey1693

Wow! Some cool stuff going on in here. I'm about to add swap out my 241 heads for some 317's, a Speed Inc SI9 cam, and some meth to cool things down. I was worried about losing boost and this talk of swapping the rear pulleys sounds promising.

Is this the tool you guys are talking about for removal/install on the rear pulleys? I cant see my rear pulleys but I can feel a hole in the center shaft on them both. I assume they are tapped just for this purpose?

I was also thinking of sandblasting all of the blower pulleys and possibly adding an overdrive crank. Any thoughts on the sand blasting?

Also, I've always wanted to get a little more belt wrap on my nose pulley. If you watch the scrolling pics on the home page of this site, it looks like these guys may have made a bracket/pulley setup that may help us mp112 guys out. I realize this is on a tvs but it looks promising. Anyone know about what they offer? The site isn't too helpful.

Also, someone mentioned bearings good for more rpm. Do we have any part numbers or links? Might as well do those if I am going to swap pulleys.

Keep up the good work guys!

Originally Posted by kyoytey1693

Wow! Some cool stuff going on in here. I'm about to add swap out my 241 heads for some 317's, a Speed Inc SI9 cam, and some meth to cool things down. I was worried about losing boost and this talk of swapping the rear pulleys sounds promising.

Is this the tool you guys are talking about for removal/install on the rear pulleys? I cant see my rear pulleys but I can feel a hole in the center shaft on them both. I assume they are tapped just for this purpose?

I was also thinking of sandblasting all of the blower pulleys and possibly adding an overdrive crank. Any thoughts on the sand blasting?

Also, I've always wanted to get a little more belt wrap on my nose pulley. If you watch the scrolling pics on the home page of this site, it looks like these guys may have made a bracket/pulley setup that may help us mp112 guys out. I realize this is on a tvs but it looks promising. Anyone know about what they offer? The site isn't too helpful.

Also, someone mentioned bearings good for more rpm. Do we have any part numbers or links? Might as well do those if I am going to swap pulleys.

Keep up the good work guys!

Originally Posted by punishmentcycle

I'd grab someone to sit there and watch the wide band and let the motor rip.. That 10.9 might just be the tip in with the way the 2 bar is set up. I didn't go boost enrichment for the simple fact that its alot harder to tune and get drivability down using a ecu that wasn't designed for boosted apps. By adding in the boost enrichment your gonna have one hell of a time getting all the tables right.

Originally Posted by brack86svo

The 10.9 was at about 5k, so I know I'm safe up till there. When I was tuning in open loop, I never got it above 90kpa, and still couldn't seem to get the VE table worked out. It has something to do with the IFR. Magnuson said the injectors are Mototron s107 60lbs. If I plug in the IFR for those injectors, with the stock VE table, the car should run reasonably well. Instead, it's way lean and I have to jack the VE table all around just to get it to idle.

Originally Posted by punishmentcycle

i put a million bucks you have 42lbers. whats the injector cycle looking like? what color ring is around the base of the injector?

Originally Posted by punishmentcycle

one other thing is im a firm believer in NOT raping the PE table but it does need some work over stock!

Originally Posted by punishmentcycle

hey man, did you remember to zero out the maf and maf fail freq?

Originally Posted by brack86svo

That's what my tuner assumed. They are the ones with the blue ring at the bottom. Everything I've seen points to them being 60# but, I'll be damned if I can get the setup right. I bought the Greg Banish DVD, so hopefully that will help me with the things I still don't understand.



I haven't touched the PE table.



I did do that. I have the calibration before the rear pulleys flashed over the 2 bar OS and it's running decent. I'm pulling rich on the decel, between 11 and 12 AFR, so that has me believing the injectors aren't setup right.

I logged a 3rd gear pull leaving work. The AFR's for WOT are as I was seeing before - 11.8 and going to 10.9 by redline. I'm seeing just over 9 psi at the beginning and falling to 8psi by redline. I'm logging this with the map sensor, and it should be close. My IAT by redline was 158* - scary. I have no knock, and overall timing at redline is 18 degrees. I need to double check to make sure all the air is out of the IC since pulling the blower.

A side not - I pressed the TVS hub off the front of my old shaft, and it's the exact same ID as the rear pulleys. Essentially, swapping to a rear TVS pulley by getting two of the front hubs, seems very viable. This opens the door to multiple pulley combinations, and rear cog drive systems.

Originally Posted by 98cobra

Blue ring at the bottom? Those sound like 80lb injectors.

Originally Posted by brack86svo

My IAT by redline was 158* - scary. I have no knock, and overall timing at redline is 18 degrees. I need to double check to make sure all the air is out of the IC since pulling the blower.