Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

Best place to locate IAT sensor? Also, best drag tire for stock rim?

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Old 05-06-2013 | 08:31 AM
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Default Best place to locate IAT sensor? Also, best drag tire for stock rim?

So I want to relocate my IAT and just do not know where the best location would be? Near the filter? or closer to the intake? In the intake pipe? or actually in the intake (front of Fast 90 where the removable EGR hole is)?


Then, I just bought an extra set of rims that will be strictly for drag tires and just wanted to grab some opinions on tires? The will have to be able to go over the road as I do not plan on taking tires on and off at the strip. Thanks!
Old 05-06-2013 | 09:51 AM
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Searched the IAT, Fuzzylogic put it in his air filter. Seems like a good spot, any other opinions on this?
Old 05-06-2013 | 09:57 AM
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id stick it in the intake piping, but our iat sensor is actually built into the maf. so unless you use a separate and/or better sensor i dont see much gains from moving it. ideally u want it in the coldest/freshest air u can find.
Old 05-06-2013 | 09:58 AM
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I've used M&H 275/45/18 they hooked good and are street friendly
Old 05-06-2013 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by NIKDSC5
Searched the IAT, Fuzzylogic put it in his air filter. Seems like a good spot, any other opinions on this?
The reason why you want to put the sensor in the airbox, regardless of whether you choose to go the Omega thermistor route, is to get the sensor away from the radiator. Less heatsoak --> more accurate IAT readings in stop and go traffic.
Old 05-06-2013 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by NEED MO POWA!
I've used M&H 275/45/18 they hooked good and are street friendly
Same tire I have on my car. Works great and hooks about 675ish whp in 4th In my car
Old 05-06-2013 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
The reason why you want to put the sensor in the airbox, regardless of whether you choose to go the Omega thermistor route, is to get the sensor away from the radiator. Less heatsoak --> more accurate IAT readings in stop and go traffic.
Do you have a link to that sensor?
Old 05-06-2013 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by NIKDSC5
Do you have a link to that sensor?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/16592376-post14.html

Just get the three things on the linked list I provided. The sensor is the second item. $22 and change.
Old 05-06-2013 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
https://ls1tech.com/forums/16592376-post14.html

Just get the three things on the linked list I provided. The sensor is the second item. $22 and change.
Don't need the weld in 3/8" NPT bung? Not going to weld it to the filter? How did you get yours to work?
Old 05-06-2013 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by NIKDSC5
Don't need the weld in 3/8" NPT bung? Not going to weld it to the filter? How did you get yours to work?
The bung is just to give the threads on the sensor something to screw into on the other side of the air filter. You can throw out the plug.

The rest of the kit is just plug and play. You'll probably want some tie wraps to make your routing look clean. That harness comes with a lot of unnecessary slack.
Old 05-06-2013 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by NEED MO POWA!
I've used M&H 275/45/18 they hooked good and are street friendly
319$ a piece any suggestions for a little cheaper version?

Also, Fuzzy I see you loacted the IAT right next to the intake pipe in the filter. I plan on mounting mine on the other side in the middle of the filter (directly accross from the intake pipe). Any thoughts?
Old 05-06-2013 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by NIKDSC5
319$ a piece any suggestions for a little cheaper version?

Also, Fuzzy I see you loacted the IAT right next to the intake pipe in the filter. I plan on mounting mine on the other side in the middle of the filter (directly accross from the intake pipe). Any thoughts?
Nothing other than that you might have to get creative with your cable routing to ensure you have enough cable length to reach that far. Might also make it harder to remove the filter if you don't have a lot of slack.
Old 05-06-2013 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by runsfromdacops
Same tire I have on my car. Works great and hooks about 675ish whp in 4th In my car
M&H 275/45/18

which rims do you have those tires mounted to?
Old 05-06-2013 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by vmapper
M&H 275/45/18

which rims do you have those tires mounted to?
Stock wheels.
Old 05-06-2013 | 08:19 PM
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Use Fuzzy's advice on the IAT,I ran mine similar to his when I did my heads and cam,worked great for me too.
Old 05-07-2013 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
The reason why you want to put the sensor in the airbox, regardless of whether you choose to go the Omega thermistor route, is to get the sensor away from the radiator. Less heatsoak --> more accurate IAT readings in stop and go traffic.
Is it the IAT sensor that gets heatsoaked or is the whole intake? It seems to me that moving the IAT sensor further away from the TB and intake manifold would be tricking the ECU to think theres cooler air coming than there actually is if the whole intake pipe gets heatsoaked. Does a retune need to be done? If this mod works with success it's something I wouldn't mind doing, but I don't want to hurt the engine any for a couple extra ponies.
Old 05-07-2013 | 03:43 PM
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You want the computer to think the air is cooler; that is the point.

It is a sensor that is collecting data that the computer reads and makes other engine changes based on the readings of said sensor, so no you should not need a tune.
Old 05-07-2013 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by MichaelSuch
Is it the IAT sensor that gets heatsoaked or is the whole intake? It seems to me that moving the IAT sensor further away from the TB and intake manifold would be tricking the ECU to think theres cooler air coming than there actually is if the whole intake pipe gets heatsoaked. Does a retune need to be done? If this mod works with success it's something I wouldn't mind doing, but I don't want to hurt the engine any for a couple extra ponies.
While the intake pipe maybe heat soaked, the incoming air is not. Though the pipe maybe hot, it would not be a good transfer of heat to the air (the pipe is not a "good" heater). So like Fuzzy did is he put the sensor (a better, quicker than stock sensor) Into the air filter. Which is the best possible location to get thee most accurate reading of the actuall incoming air temperature.
Old 05-07-2013 | 04:00 PM
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TPIS, used to sell a kit for L98/LB9 cars to locate it from under the actual intake, into the bung that was in the stock air intakes on the 90-92 F-bodies.

It was $20 and was a harness extension and a threaded plug.

Worked great.

Need to do this mod.
Old 05-07-2013 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 54inches
You want the computer to think the air is cooler; that is the point.
I disagree.
the point is to give the proper IAT to the ECM. This allows good tuning of the VE / Virtual tables for calculating fuel.
There should be no reason one wants to 'trick' the ECM into colder air, or more air. Its not beneficial, and a tuner will just end up skewing the values to compensate for 'that day' hotter air being ingested when the sensor reasds x.x° cooler. One has then just introduced 'error' into the tables, as you started with error in your data (the delta of air temp). Its actually no different than heat soaked, but just the other way...


Reason for relocating is to avoid 'improper' values used in calculating fueling and to get the most accurate, ideally the 'actual injected temp' The Omega sensor allows for quicker response as well.

Sensor placement ideally should be intake before throttle without head soak, this usually means relocating to front bumper or airbox for closer values. Unless you use the Hitachi slot (which is less prone to head soak)

However, if one uses Meth or dry nitrous, then this must be downstream to the injection point... usually closer to the throttle.


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