Proper rotor change technique
05-08-2013, 09:55 AM
#22
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I just checked ebay for that service & I couldn't find it. I thought about it. I just ordered a set for $373. Now that I know how it's done, it should be no problem.
07-07-2013, 08:31 AM
#27
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Brake work is actually pretty simple. Why your friend thought that removing bolts on the caliper that don't attach to the steering knuckle itself would get the caliper off is beyond me though. Definitely a move someone who never worked on brakes would make.
Rebuilding the calipers on the V is a little different than some other fixed caliper cars in that you DON'T split the calipers. On the 370Z I previously owned, you split the calipers to rebuild them.
As for a rotor swap, these are the steps (without a lot of details for each):
1) place car on jack stands
2) remove wheels
Working on one corner at a time from start to finish from here on...
3) remove brake pads
4) disconnect brake line from back of caliper and plug to prevent fluid leakage
5) unbolt caliper from steering knuckle
6) the rotor should be loose and can be slid off the wheel studs. If it's stuck, tap it with a rubber mallet to break it loose (due to corrosion)
7) apply a little anti-seize to the hub (NOT THE WHEEL STUDS) and slide on the new rotor.
8) Bolt the caliper back onto the steering knuckle
9) reconnect the brake line to the back of the caliper
10) replace the brake pads.
Do all 4 corners and then bleed the system in the following order: RR, LR, RF, LF
Replace wheels and lugs, get the car off the stands, and torque the lugs.
Done
Rebuilding the calipers on the V is a little different than some other fixed caliper cars in that you DON'T split the calipers. On the 370Z I previously owned, you split the calipers to rebuild them.
As for a rotor swap, these are the steps (without a lot of details for each):
1) place car on jack stands
2) remove wheels
Working on one corner at a time from start to finish from here on...
3) remove brake pads
4) disconnect brake line from back of caliper and plug to prevent fluid leakage
5) unbolt caliper from steering knuckle
6) the rotor should be loose and can be slid off the wheel studs. If it's stuck, tap it with a rubber mallet to break it loose (due to corrosion)
7) apply a little anti-seize to the hub (NOT THE WHEEL STUDS) and slide on the new rotor.
8) Bolt the caliper back onto the steering knuckle
9) reconnect the brake line to the back of the caliper
10) replace the brake pads.
Do all 4 corners and then bleed the system in the following order: RR, LR, RF, LF
Replace wheels and lugs, get the car off the stands, and torque the lugs.
Done
07-08-2013, 05:48 PM
#29
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Looking at Spearfish post, i don't know why the brake lines were disconnected. The calipers will easily move up out of the way WITHOUT disconnecting. just wire tie or bungie the caliper to something to hold it.
07-10-2013, 11:56 PM
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I agree..no need to even bleed brakes if done properly...When u change the rotors though there are I believe 2 or 3 small tq bolts on the rotor.. Heat them up and they break loose easily...or u will strip them.
