FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys,

I'm beginning the installation of an aftermarket signal integrator and amplifier, and wondered if anyone knew which color wires went to each speaker before I start cutting. I have the following two diagrams, which don't appear to specify wire colors (unless "WH" = white, "TN" = tan, "YE" = yellow", "L-GN" = light green, etc):





Also, I'm planning on ripping out that horrible plastic tray riveted into the rear deck, and wondered if anyone ran into any issues with that. I plan on applying a layer of dynamat over the entire deck, and then mounting my subwoofer with a MDF ring. I don't know how well these rings handle stress, so any advice as far as mounting hardware selection (bolts and washers) would be appreciated.

Thanks!

rbsurfer

For a signal use positive and negative off stock sub. Buy a line out converter that will convert your sub pos and neg into rca for you amp signal. Now to power your amp pull out the bottom of your back seat and pull the carpet forward. There will be wires running between the 2 fuse boxes in those wires 2 will be thicker and they will be red with a black stripe. Those are direct battery so those will be spliced into for power to amp. Ground to any bolt I used seat bolt and for remote turn on I used ecu fuse I think any that only turn on when the car is on will work...... that is how I did mine its the most simple way to do it in my opinion. I hope this helps you bro.

rbsurfer

and in order to put a 10" sub in the rear deck you will have to trim some of the hole. as for removing the plastic thing i left mine in and never really thought about it but i didnt use dyno mat at first and it was a huge mistake use dynomat on the top and bottom of the rear deck and you should be good. i didnt see a need to splice into a big wiring harness, i just used what i did in other cars used a loc (line out converter). if you have any more questions feel free to ask

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Already did that, rbsurfer. Long time ago. But thanks!

rbsurfer

Oh what were you trying to do ? Redo your whole sound system with a separate amp?

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Signal integrator, then separate amplifier.

rbsurfer

Ohh well I can't help on that I normally just turn wrenches but can do some basic wiring and stuff but not all that lol but good luck bro should be sweet once you get it going

LAYGO

iTrader: (10)

I cut the part that held the stock sub off & put an MDF wooden thing in it's place. I put some rubber gasket (aka mousepad material) between the MDF & rear deck. I didn't put enough dynamat on top, but I've got it coated on the bottom. When I had the Kicker 10" dropped in, the body shop snipped some of the metal so it'd fit in the hole. I'm TOTALLY happy with it except there is a specific freq that REALLY resonates that rear deck & vibrates the **** out of that plastic tray that's left. I want to get in on the top side & abandon that tray.

s-cam

I used a audiocontrol LCQ-1 and tapped into all the wires just like the stock diagram showed ( picture 2 in the post above) and just after the amp - then ran a 4 channel and a mono sub amp off of the audio control and then connected the outputs back to the stock harness so I did not have to run new wires to the doors. I am very happy with the audio control piece and with the alpine pdx amps and type r speakers I have some midbass back in my front doors. the trick with the mids tweets for the front doors was to use a mid that had a built in cross over and then a tweet that just used an inline cross over- its one of the biggest reasons I went with the alpines.

Previously I did a free air alpine in the rear deck and was not happy, then a jl 10w6 in a box ( with too small of amp) and blew it up ( stupid) and now I am running 2- 10" alpine type r subs in a fiberglass box in the rear wheel well and I am very happy with it.

I dynamated the complete trunk floor and rear seat area but it was more to try to deaden the sound of the fuel pumps then anything else.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Ah, the typical mistake. Dynamat (or B-quiet, which is better and cheaper) is a CLD (constrained layer dampener), whose job it is to absorb relatively low-frequency structureborne vibrations that can couple with another material and create airborne noise. What you need is a CCF MLV, like Luxury Liner Pro , which attenuates high-frequency airborne noise, or some combination of the two. CLD + CCF MLV, when properly applied, can be very effective at combating noise.

For starters, putting a layer between your bottom seat cushion and the sheet metal (right on top of your old Dynamat layer) will cut the noise down some. The next step is to cut a slot in your bottom seat cushion and put another layer in there (you can't install two layers of Luxury Liner Pro below the rear seat because it won't latch down afterwards). Finally (and I may put up a DIY thread on this), you'll want to install four pieces of MLV in the sides and center sections of your back seat--between the steel backing plate and the inner foam.

If you want to get really crazy, you can also cut a piece of MLV that fits between the trunk lid and the inner liner, and one for each of the side trunk liners. After removing the plastic piece on the rear deck, do one or two layers of Dynamat/B-quiet followed by one or two layers of MLV between the top of the rear deck and the deck cover, and you'll be golden--at least with respect to the rear end of the car.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I cut the plastic tray in half threw away the speaker ring and left the XM unit side in. To quiet it down I shoved some pieces of loose foam padding I had laying around underneath it and put a couple pieces of deadener on key parts. I used an MDF baffle to mount the speaker in the stock location. I still get some bottoming out from my sub, and I'd like to create an enclosure on the underside with fiberglass.

BiggSalDaBarber

what did you connect the remote wire from the aftermarket amplifier to?