Monster level 2 Clutch?
#1
Monster level 2 Clutch?
Any body used this clutch in there caddy? Or is there a better clutch out there for less money.
http://www.shop.gforce1320.com/product.sc?productId=247
http://www.shop.gforce1320.com/product.sc?productId=247
#2
I run this. I got a killer deal on it around XMas w/ Aluminum Flywheel. Otherwise, I would've gone with the LS7/RAM Flywheel option. I have no issues with it. Have around 3K on it. Followed break in procedure...no problems. Grabs quick and strong, a little chatter, but nothing I'm going to bitch about. Stock engagement point...only issue that people with the LS7 clutch have had is engagement is right off the floor for some.
#3
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from what I have read I don't understand why anyone would go with anything but a LS7 Clutch, especially for half the price?? Is it horsepower related or something? I thought ls7 was good for around 500
#5
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On FuzzyLogic's advice, I got the F1 LS7 clutch kit from the Gripforce seller on ebay. It comes with a 20.4 lbs cromoly flywheel:
www.ebay.com/itm/F1-STAGE-2-CLUTCH-KIT-SLAVE-FLYWHEEL-CORVETTE-C6-6-0L-LS2-6-2L-LS3-Z06-7-0L-LS7-/151059134647
Incidentally, it is listed at $609 shipped, but I offered $550 shipped and they accepted.
I also picked up the Tick speed bleeder. I called tick and they said the one for the 2010 V8 Camaro would fit the LS7 slave:
www.tickperformance.com/tick-performance-remote-clutch-speedbleeder-line-for-2010-v8-camaro/
www.ebay.com/itm/F1-STAGE-2-CLUTCH-KIT-SLAVE-FLYWHEEL-CORVETTE-C6-6-0L-LS2-6-2L-LS3-Z06-7-0L-LS7-/151059134647
Incidentally, it is listed at $609 shipped, but I offered $550 shipped and they accepted.
I also picked up the Tick speed bleeder. I called tick and they said the one for the 2010 V8 Camaro would fit the LS7 slave:
www.tickperformance.com/tick-performance-remote-clutch-speedbleeder-line-for-2010-v8-camaro/
#6
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Did you get arp flywheel and pressure plate bolts? I have been thinking about getting one of these clutch kits off ebay but don't want extra stuff/costs to make it more expensive.
Any other added costs?
Any other added costs?
#7
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No, I didn't get any bolts. I will leave that to my mechanic. I'm in the middle if a move and too busy to do this myself.
But besides the bolts, I can't think of any other costs.
The clutch kit just arrived and inside is a friction disc with a sticker that says "LS1 2150", a LUK pressure plate part no. 817 03, an FTE slave w cast part no. 68016 ( and also UR 03) and stamped 0751162. There is also an F1 brand chromoly flywheel that looks like it's had metal drilled out of the center an perimeter to lose weight. I weighed it at 20.6 lbs. also a GM alignment tool and pilot bearing.
But besides the bolts, I can't think of any other costs.
The clutch kit just arrived and inside is a friction disc with a sticker that says "LS1 2150", a LUK pressure plate part no. 817 03, an FTE slave w cast part no. 68016 ( and also UR 03) and stamped 0751162. There is also an F1 brand chromoly flywheel that looks like it's had metal drilled out of the center an perimeter to lose weight. I weighed it at 20.6 lbs. also a GM alignment tool and pilot bearing.
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#8
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I've run the Monster level 2 and 3. The 2 is a lot more street friendly and can be driven a little more normally, but you do get a little more chatter if you don't beat on it a little. When it starts to chatter just do a few rolling clutch drops and it will go away. The level 3 is more of the same, but more extreme, ie if you don't beat on it every day it will chatter really badly.
#10
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What do you guys recommend for someone who's clutch grabs hard and good but there is some serious chatter going on? My clutch grabs great and powershifts tuff but what ever happens when you push the clutch in (the chatter sometimes) is pretty ridiculous.
I want the benefits of the light flywheel and stuff but just not sure if it is worth it right now when my clutch is still great (appears to be) Just the noise. Not sure if I should go with the ls7 or ride stock clutch/dualmass for a long while
I want the benefits of the light flywheel and stuff but just not sure if it is worth it right now when my clutch is still great (appears to be) Just the noise. Not sure if I should go with the ls7 or ride stock clutch/dualmass for a long while
#11
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I believe mine has a level 2 Monster Clutch in it. I thought it was fine until I drove a LS7 clutched CTS-V, gear change engagement from the clutch was smoother and less tedious. I can drive my own car perfectly well, some passengers in the rear assume it's an automatic. But it requires much more thought and effort than the ls7 clutch. I'll put it this way, after 20,000 miles I would not replace it with another Monster.
#12
#13
Don't know, as I do not have the LS7 clutch. The part I find odd is only some have issues with the engagement point. The threads I've read describe using the same parts (LS7 Slave, no shim). Ones that reuse the CTS-V Slave and shim have stock engagement point. I really don't understand why only some have issues if using the same parts.
#14
I bought the Monster stage 2 clutch, LS7 slave and steel flywheel with speed bleeder. Its still in the shop but I doubt I will have chatter with the steel flywheel. I can understand with the aluminum. Anyone disagree?
#16
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But my chatter is terrible, passengers are like wtf is that. I have to say it is my bunk 50k Caddy (new)
#17
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I am not sure but from what I have read the chatter is from the dual mass flywheel (not sure if that is what you mean by aluminum) Even in my friends G35 with the dual mass there was chatter. He got rid of it for a lightweight and says it is night and day difference. He said his was so bad he can move the 2 parts of the flywheel and see what was causing the noise. I would assume ours is the same way
But my chatter is terrible, passengers are like wtf is that. I have to say it is my bunk 50k Caddy (new)
But my chatter is terrible, passengers are like wtf is that. I have to say it is my bunk 50k Caddy (new)
What fun (clearing the codes was to!).