GREG O.

iTrader: (4)

Installed a new LS7 clutch kit...and used an LS7 slave...seems logical, but if I remember correctly I must use an LS2 or LS1.Does that sound correct, cause after bleeding I am haveing trouble getting gears...With the new UCC bushings and the home depot fix with the engine off it goes into all gears really good......HELP
PS: 6.0 iron block or LS2 NOT 5.7

CTSVBiggie

iTrader: (1)

I was told just a LS7 slave to account for the size difference between the stock dual mass and a normal flywheel.

Let me know what you find out. Might need shimming

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

You need a LS7 slave because of its longer reach and larger diameter throw-out bearing. If you're having trouble finding gears, that means either a) you did not torque the pressure plate bolts to 48-52 ft-lbs on the final pass, b) you did not follow the star of david pattern, or c) you still have air in the clutch lines. My money is on a) because that's what most people have done. This is one of those scenarios where a torque wrench is not optional.

The best slave is still the PowerTorque CS2529, sold by O'Reilly.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

My vote is C.

I used a PowerMotive setup and got all of the air out.

GREG O.

iTrader: (4)

I hope the answer is C....the pressure plate was torqued star of david , starting at 15lbs. then 35lbs.then finished with 52lbs.with blue locktite. Might have to get something like the PowerMotive setup, cause no more air is coming out. Every part is new. I sure hope I don't need a spacer. I need a Bud Light.. Back with u'all later.................
ps: calling Lindsay again today..With the holiday I didn't get a return call...

GREG O.

iTrader: (4)

Is this the one used.....Has anyone else used it or know the proper part#? Don't need to buy the wrong one.. thanks GREG O. is still the PowerTorque CS2529, sold by O'Reilly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 54inches
My vote is C.

I used a PowerMotive setup and got all of the air out

Motive Products Power Bleeder Fits most late model GM cars and trucks : Amazon.com : Automotive

Motive Products Power Bleeder Fits most late model GM cars and trucks : Amazon.com : Automotive

Fuzzy_Wuzzy

iTrader: (8)

Air... you will not see air coming out, but keep bleeding... mine took me hours... even with a mityvac, speedbleeder and not running it dry (heck it took me forever to even get a pedal, then to get it to feel right)

54inches

iTrader: (4)

That's the one I have brother; with several different adapters for all vehicles.

Literally took like 20 minutes.....

GREG O.

iTrader: (4)

We have good pedal with just 10 mins of bleeding and no air..It was getting better and better, and since there was no more air coming out of the tick remote bleeder, which we did from up top the engine compartment we gave up.....We are using some good fluid it's blue..might be called AM or ame, not quite sure but expensive. used up half of it already....ready to order the Motive...I was told by my friend who is helping me to order it at autopartstomorrow....get it in one day for about 75/80bucks shipped. It's gettting late so I gotta go and order that..can't hurt..thanks guys. $$$$$$$ mo money, mo money YeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeHa..

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

You're talking about ATE Super Blue DOT 4. If you think it's expensive, look up Motul RBF 600. That's a solid upgrade and recommended for cars that see track time.

DMM

Greg..

The only way I have found to properly bleed any hydraulic clutch is to open the bleeder and have someone push the pedal with the bleeder open. The bleeder must be closed before the pedal bottoms out, however. Once you have a decent pedal, pump the pedal about 15 times and then repeat opening the bleeder and then pushing the pedal, closing the bleeder before the pedal bottoms.

Vacuum bleeders have never worked for me on any clutch system...ever.


Good luck buddy!

GREG O.

iTrader: (4)

V is just a grocery getter...and hell, I just wanna see some street time. 800 miles in 2 1/2yrs. doesn't get it...I ordered the Motive bleeder from Amazon. paid xtra for 2nd day delivery. so Friday, hopefully this LS7 clutch job will be done.plus, I can use it again after I destroy the lower tq. LS7 clutch.

GREG O.

iTrader: (4)

Well, I already ordered it...and what u said about the bleeder must be closed before the pedal bottoms out was what my one friend said, but for some reason we didn't do it...I will check into that with them and get back to ya....thanks for the reminder..

54inches

iTrader: (4)

I have heard people say this about bleeding clutches, but they are in the minority or are doing it different.

I have had great luck with the typical bleed.

Hell, both ways probably works!

Scott96LT1

iTrader: (2)

I bled mine manually with my LS7 setup and had no issue. I do have a Mity Vac but I doubt I'll use it for this. I forget which speedbleeder I have, I want to say its the East Coast Corvettes version and I did notch the bellhousing.

07CTS-V

iTrader: (6)

I use the Motive Power bleeder. I've had issues like this before and it seems random when the clutch just starts working properly.

If you think the Motul RBF is expensive try the Castrol SRF. That's the only fluid I don't have to flush once a month.