McLeod RXT Clutch - My Experience
#81
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
Huh, I must not have a speed bleeder then. My line is just a steel braided line with a brake bleeder at the end. There is no check valve. Just a remote bleeder. I suppose I still would not trust the speed bleeder/check valve. Call me old fashioned but I like to stick with methods that have worked for decades.
#84
TECH Resident
iTrader: (6)
Huh, I must not have a speed bleeder then. My line is just a steel braided line with a brake bleeder at the end. There is no check valve. Just a remote bleeder. I suppose I still would not trust the speed bleeder/check valve. Call me old fashioned but I like to stick with methods that have worked for decades.
#85
When filled to almost overflowing I get three pumps before having to refill. It worked this way with the original master and the new one so I have assumed this was normal.
#88
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
Anyways, that is just my opinion. I'm sure it's a nightmare and you're frustrated. Not trying to lead you down the wrong path.
#89
Yeah, it kind of seems like the seals on his master might be f---ed and allowing fluid to bypass. The only other thing I've heard of (emphasis on "heard") is the linkage getting bent and not permitting full utilization of the master.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 03-25-2014 at 03:17 PM.
#90
Thanks for the response guys but in speaking with McLeod they suspect that the slave is OVER extending the pressure plate fingers. The PP only needs .375" for full release and the LS7 slave is capable of .425" (approx my notes are not available right now).
To their expert this made sense because as the friction surfaces wore the problem got worse. This time around I shimmed it thinking the disengagement issue was the slave not extending far enough. I new it was tight (intentionally so) at 1/32". I will experiment with a pedal stop and see how that works. If it fixes the issue I will drop the trans, remove the shim under the slave, and readjust the stop.
My doubt concerning this potential solution is the clutch engagement appears to immediately off of the floor. I want to slowly extend the pedal and see what happens before declaring even possible victory.
To their expert this made sense because as the friction surfaces wore the problem got worse. This time around I shimmed it thinking the disengagement issue was the slave not extending far enough. I new it was tight (intentionally so) at 1/32". I will experiment with a pedal stop and see how that works. If it fixes the issue I will drop the trans, remove the shim under the slave, and readjust the stop.
My doubt concerning this potential solution is the clutch engagement appears to immediately off of the floor. I want to slowly extend the pedal and see what happens before declaring even possible victory.
#91
on the potential for fluid bypassing the seals... I don't think that is likely unless there is a manufacturing defect in part of the cylinder as the hydraulic system held 15 psi of pressure for an hour.
#92
Well I took it for s SHORT drive and i am just not believing that the slave is over extending. If it was I would think you could find a spot in the clutch travel where the clutch was fully disengaged. If there is a spot in the clutch travel where that happens I can't find it.
Back to the drawing board. Phili, when will that Tick adjustable be ready?
BTW - McLeod appears to be against using the Tick master with this clutch due to over extension of the PP fingers...
Back to the drawing board. Phili, when will that Tick adjustable be ready?
BTW - McLeod appears to be against using the Tick master with this clutch due to over extension of the PP fingers...
#93
I don't think the LS7 slave can overextend the McLeod RXT using the stock master cylinder. I've been playing with various clearances between the clutch and the slave, and I found that the maximum gap that the system will fully disengage the McLeod with is about 1/16". If the stock hydraulics were able to supply enough volume to fully extend the LS7 slave, I would be able to open that gap up a bit.
With the clearance set to 1/16", the clutch doesn't begin to engage until my foot is at least 3" off the floor, and full engagement doesn't occur until just after my heel leaves the floor.
I'm looking forward to Philistine's project because I still have to occasionally double-pump, despite the engagement points set where they are. It'll probably help in other ways, like tuning that engagement point to taste.
With the clearance set to 1/16", the clutch doesn't begin to engage until my foot is at least 3" off the floor, and full engagement doesn't occur until just after my heel leaves the floor.
I'm looking forward to Philistine's project because I still have to occasionally double-pump, despite the engagement points set where they are. It'll probably help in other ways, like tuning that engagement point to taste.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 03-25-2014 at 07:26 PM.
#94
I hear you. My engagement is still immediately off of the floor. Which doesn't track with what I was told but I wanted to believe it. I will pull it again this weekend and swap the slave again. If that doesn't work then I will be putting the tick in regardless (likely won't have time to wait for phili's solution).
#96
any of these issues get solved? Or figured out at least?
If I had to do it all over again I might not go with a dual disk clutch and would definitely at minimum step down to the RST. I also hear that Monster has a great new dual disk clutch. I do have one issue that I think is related to the light weight flywheel and low MOI clutch. When getting it rolling it wants to stall unless I punch it. I have tuned, tuned and tuned again and can't seem to find the fix for this but I did leave my idle at the stock 800 rpms even with this cam. I could likely up the idle speed and get rid of the stall but.... I like a challenge.
#97
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Thanks for keeping this updated, especially since the D-bag who started the thread never bothered to
Anyhow, I've been driving mine on decent distance trips looking at houses and the strangest thing has happened...it chatters when cold and in reverse only. Somehow, this damn thing completely reversed its tendencies. It still feels numb and now chatters as much in reverse as it did on initial take off, so I still hate this damn thing to its core.
I'm thinking about getting the LTx clutch to get drivability back. Also going to change the 3.55 gears to 3.90 since the new tranny is geared much steeper than the OE tranny. Right now I'm at 1700 RPM at 72 MPH with the 0.50 6th gear ratio.
Anyhow, I've been driving mine on decent distance trips looking at houses and the strangest thing has happened...it chatters when cold and in reverse only. Somehow, this damn thing completely reversed its tendencies. It still feels numb and now chatters as much in reverse as it did on initial take off, so I still hate this damn thing to its core.
I'm thinking about getting the LTx clutch to get drivability back. Also going to change the 3.55 gears to 3.90 since the new tranny is geared much steeper than the OE tranny. Right now I'm at 1700 RPM at 72 MPH with the 0.50 6th gear ratio.
#98
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
Well, I have to give a shout out to McLeod. I just now put my clutch on, from purchasing it over a year ago and turn out they sent me two top discs. So, they shipped out two new ones no questions asked. With a return label for the two I have. Can't ask for more really. But mine is the RST also.
#99
I also have the RXT, but my problem is that it wont disengage AT ALL. I have the Wilwood 7/8 MC and stock slave. With an inspection camera, i can see that the fingers are being pushed in what "seems" to be all the way. I have the Slave shimmed .145 and am using the included shims for the clutch. At this point I am lost.