NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Huh, I must not have a speed bleeder then. My line is just a steel braided line with a brake bleeder at the end. There is no check valve. Just a remote bleeder. I suppose I still would not trust the speed bleeder/check valve. Call me old fashioned but I like to stick with methods that have worked for decades.

silver1r

iTrader: (1)

Its been spring since I did it last so I can't remember exactly how many pumps, but I was more or less stating my technique. But Now that you say it, I think it was 1 or 2.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

The old man over on the Cadillac forum will beat you over the head with this when the time is right.....

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

It looks like a standard bleeder screw, the check valve is a small ball bearing and spring assembly inside. There's nothing black magic or hokey about them and are a great tool for a one man operation. I saved a lot of time and frustration bleeding brakes before a track day, bleeding between sessions, and flushing fluid the day after by myself with speed bleeders.

Sssnake

When filled to almost overflowing I get three pumps before having to refill. It worked this way with the original master and the new one so I have assumed this was normal.

Sssnake

STATUS UPDATE - Power bled and old school bled (closing the speed bleeder after each down stroke) with no improvement. Calling McLeod.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

philistine

iTrader: (2)

Noway! Sorry Charles but I can't get past my suspicion that it's hydraulic related. Perhaps it's because of my mini-project and massive research across multiple platforms regarding aftermarket clutches and replacing the stock clutch master with something more robust. To be clear, I'm thinking the stock system as designed is weak...no matter if you put a new clutch MC or the old.

Anyways, that is just my opinion. I'm sure it's a nightmare and you're frustrated. Not trying to lead you down the wrong path.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, it kind of seems like the seals on his master might be f---ed and allowing fluid to bypass. The only other thing I've heard of (emphasis on "heard") is the linkage getting bent and not permitting full utilization of the master.

Sssnake

Thanks for the response guys but in speaking with McLeod they suspect that the slave is OVER extending the pressure plate fingers. The PP only needs .375" for full release and the LS7 slave is capable of .425" (approx my notes are not available right now).

To their expert this made sense because as the friction surfaces wore the problem got worse. This time around I shimmed it thinking the disengagement issue was the slave not extending far enough. I new it was tight (intentionally so) at 1/32". I will experiment with a pedal stop and see how that works. If it fixes the issue I will drop the trans, remove the shim under the slave, and readjust the stop.

My doubt concerning this potential solution is the clutch engagement appears to immediately off of the floor. I want to slowly extend the pedal and see what happens before declaring even possible victory.

Sssnake

on the potential for fluid bypassing the seals... I don't think that is likely unless there is a manufacturing defect in part of the cylinder as the hydraulic system held 15 psi of pressure for an hour.

Sssnake

Well I took it for s SHORT drive and i am just not believing that the slave is over extending. If it was I would think you could find a spot in the clutch travel where the clutch was fully disengaged. If there is a spot in the clutch travel where that happens I can't find it.

Back to the drawing board. Phili, when will that Tick adjustable be ready?

BTW - McLeod appears to be against using the Tick master with this clutch due to over extension of the PP fingers...

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I don't think the LS7 slave can overextend the McLeod RXT using the stock master cylinder. I've been playing with various clearances between the clutch and the slave, and I found that the maximum gap that the system will fully disengage the McLeod with is about 1/16". If the stock hydraulics were able to supply enough volume to fully extend the LS7 slave, I would be able to open that gap up a bit.

With the clearance set to 1/16", the clutch doesn't begin to engage until my foot is at least 3" off the floor, and full engagement doesn't occur until just after my heel leaves the floor.

I'm looking forward to Philistine's project because I still have to occasionally double-pump, despite the engagement points set where they are. It'll probably help in other ways, like tuning that engagement point to taste.

Sssnake

I hear you. My engagement is still immediately off of the floor. Which doesn't track with what I was told but I wanted to believe it. I will pull it again this weekend and swap the slave again. If that doesn't work then I will be putting the tick in regardless (likely won't have time to wait for phili's solution).

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

any of these issues get solved? Or figured out at least?

Sssnake

In my case yes, hydraulics. The stock master just didn't have enough ooomph to properly disengage the clutch. I went to the Tick MC and and the problem went away. I later changed to the PMC and again had no problems. I do still get occasional chatter and I am not loving the feel of the clutch but it holds well. I also get a stiff clutch pedal from time to time that goes away as soon as I drop the hammer on the accelerator. I have no idea why but that seems to free it up any time it gets stiff. This is likely why I had to buy new rear tires when it looks like I have at least 50% of the tread left on the fronts. BTW - the Potenza R71s look nice. Hopefully I can report back on those after the 4th.

If I had to do it all over again I might not go with a dual disk clutch and would definitely at minimum step down to the RST. I also hear that Monster has a great new dual disk clutch. I do have one issue that I think is related to the light weight flywheel and low MOI clutch. When getting it rolling it wants to stall unless I punch it. I have tuned, tuned and tuned again and can't seem to find the fix for this but I did leave my idle at the stock 800 rpms even with this cam. I could likely up the idle speed and get rid of the stall but.... I like a challenge.

DMM

Thanks for keeping this updated, especially since the D-bag who started the thread never bothered to

Anyhow, I've been driving mine on decent distance trips looking at houses and the strangest thing has happened...it chatters when cold and in reverse only. Somehow, this damn thing completely reversed its tendencies. It still feels numb and now chatters as much in reverse as it did on initial take off, so I still hate this damn thing to its core.

I'm thinking about getting the LTx clutch to get drivability back. Also going to change the 3.55 gears to 3.90 since the new tranny is geared much steeper than the OE tranny. Right now I'm at 1700 RPM at 72 MPH with the 0.50 6th gear ratio.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Well, I have to give a shout out to McLeod. I just now put my clutch on, from purchasing it over a year ago and turn out they sent me two top discs. So, they shipped out two new ones no questions asked. With a return label for the two I have. Can't ask for more really. But mine is the RST also.

Cashed240

I also have the RXT, but my problem is that it wont disengage AT ALL. I have the Wilwood 7/8 MC and stock slave. With an inspection camera, i can see that the fingers are being pushed in what "seems" to be all the way. I have the Slave shimmed .145 and am using the included shims for the clutch. At this point I am lost.