Towing/trailer questions
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Towing/trailer questions
I am in the market for a car hauler/trailer and wanted to get a couple of opinions. I really don't want to pay for towing anymore and I know a nice trailer is good to have around. I won't tow that much but I do buy broken hondas and fix them and when other stuff breaks I would be nice to tow my own stuff instead of paying a tow company.
I have a 2004 Sierra Denali Quadrasteer with a v8 rated at 10k to tow, I would like the trailer to be low enough to tow lowered cars, my v but also big enough to tow my truck if needed. So I'm thinking 7000k gvwr will work to tow my truck/caddy and other stuff
What do people tow their Vs with? I don't know if I should go with a gravity tilt trailer or manual (jack) trailer like the link I provided. The trailer would be 3300 out the door with a 4ft beavertail and removable driver fender
http://bulldogtrailers.com/inventory?view=detail&id=30
What are peoples opinions on the gravity trailer vs the manual jack trailer. They said the gravity are not that great because the trailer tries to go down when the car isn't on all way and if you are hauling garbage etc you have to load the front of the trailer or it will tilt back.
I have a 2004 Sierra Denali Quadrasteer with a v8 rated at 10k to tow, I would like the trailer to be low enough to tow lowered cars, my v but also big enough to tow my truck if needed. So I'm thinking 7000k gvwr will work to tow my truck/caddy and other stuff
What do people tow their Vs with? I don't know if I should go with a gravity tilt trailer or manual (jack) trailer like the link I provided. The trailer would be 3300 out the door with a 4ft beavertail and removable driver fender
http://bulldogtrailers.com/inventory?view=detail&id=30
What are peoples opinions on the gravity trailer vs the manual jack trailer. They said the gravity are not that great because the trailer tries to go down when the car isn't on all way and if you are hauling garbage etc you have to load the front of the trailer or it will tilt back.
#2
Flat trailer w/ ramps is going to be the cheapest, strongest and most drama-free for the money. Most have extremely low decks to begin with, worst case scenario you can always flip the axle and do axle over spring.
If you have the LQ4/LQ9 towing the V won't be an issue.
If you have the LQ4/LQ9 towing the V won't be an issue.
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I'm pretty sure I want to get a tilt trailer I'm just not sure if I want to get a gravity tilt (where you pull the pin to raise it and put the car on to lower) or one with a hydraulic jack to raise/lower it.
I was just curious what people thought hydraulic vs gravity trailer. I'm pretty sure my V at stock height would hit the ramps if I had a regular trailer
I was just curious what people thought hydraulic vs gravity trailer. I'm pretty sure my V at stock height would hit the ramps if I had a regular trailer
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Been using a gravity tilt for years to haul a dedicated Datsun 510 race car around and used one for a while to haul one of my rockcrawlers. Once you figure out the weight balances and where on the trailer its going to begin to tilt back down, just go ahead and paint some lines on there so you can look out and see where you are. After a while you will just begin pulling on and off the trailer by feel. Just keep all the pivots greased, I usually did this when I was checking wheel bearings and such and youll have a pretty hassle free life out of it.
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I had a 20' open Featherlite that I loved. Fit the V with room for a box up front. I used a set of Race Ramps that have changeable ends.
I swapped it for a 24' enclosed Featherlite that can pretty much do anything.
The manual tilt will get old fast so try the gravity or even electric over hydraulic first.
I tow with a Sierra Denali 6.2 without issues, I went all aluminum because of the weight but it's pricey. Also the Equalizer is what you want for sway control and don't forget a good brake controller.
I swapped it for a 24' enclosed Featherlite that can pretty much do anything.
The manual tilt will get old fast so try the gravity or even electric over hydraulic first.
I tow with a Sierra Denali 6.2 without issues, I went all aluminum because of the weight but it's pricey. Also the Equalizer is what you want for sway control and don't forget a good brake controller.
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I have had a lot of trailers over the years, open enclosed multi car etc.
I'm not a fan of tilting trailers. If you look at the angle of entry it is steeper than a trailer with ramps. This means if you are loading long or low vehicles there is more of a chance of scraping. If you are loading a long car on a gravity trailer it can start to drop before the rear tires are on the ramp. Also it is much more difficult to mount a winch.
Just my opinion.
Good luck
I'm not a fan of tilting trailers. If you look at the angle of entry it is steeper than a trailer with ramps. This means if you are loading long or low vehicles there is more of a chance of scraping. If you are loading a long car on a gravity trailer it can start to drop before the rear tires are on the ramp. Also it is much more difficult to mount a winch.
Just my opinion.
Good luck
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With the car lowered ~1" I've used my buddy's Race Ramps (to extend the UHaul ramps) or, when I didn't have his ramps handy, just put some scrap 2x6"s under the ramps to give the nose a little bit more height.
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I ordered a hydraulic jack 18ft 7k tilt trailer with a removable fender, 4ft beaver tail (still 18ft total) and a place for a winch built into the trailer for 3300.
I'm debating if I should order the 20ft trailer, the incline will be a little less and I would be able to haul longer stuff. Don't think I would need it, but I would rather have the option if something comes up. Bigger is better than to small I guess
I'm debating if I should order the 20ft trailer, the incline will be a little less and I would be able to haul longer stuff. Don't think I would need it, but I would rather have the option if something comes up. Bigger is better than to small I guess