punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

he pretty much just answered your questions. the mani will be too small and even if you run the taller mani with rec heads your not gonna clear the hood..not even a domed hood.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

That's more of a factor when picking a cooler, right? All of the Whipple head units I looked at were more or less the same height. Although the E-Force is lower, you will still need to clearance the corners on the front, IIRC. And there isn't enough displacement to efficiently boost a 427 LSX.

tommycompton

iTrader: (1)

I called whipple about the cathedral 2.9l aqnd it sit's 10 1/2" from the valley.
Which will fit in the middle with my power dome hood, but at the snout it wouldn't clear even with my hood, I'd have to cut and fiberglass. So unless you want a scoop, I'm pretty sure your not going to fit it.

tommycompton

iTrader: (1)

Ya pretty much sums it up.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Great. Thanks for the head's up. I guess it's time to up the priority on the short motor mounts.

tommycompton

iTrader: (1)

You could shim the cradle, but I'm not sure how far you would want to go with that. Even when peoples mm are shot, shifting becomes an issue because of misalignments. So lowering the motor too much may do much the same thing.

Just fyi with the power dome hood I only need about 3/4" to clear the blower at the front, right above the water pump. Maybe even a tad less due to the fact that the supercharger narrows at that point.
I'm not sure if extreme composites gives any additional clearance.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Although this is just a theory, I believe it's incorrect to say that broken motor mounts can cause shifting issues simply because the motor is lower. Rather, I suspect that the problem can be explained by noting that the driver's side motor mount (subjected to tension, rather than compression) is always more degraded than the passenger side, which tilts the motor to one side.

When broken motor mounts are present, I doubt that there's any change in the angle between the slave/clutch, or the pilot bearing/input shaft. This is because the bellhousing provides a strong/stiff/tough coupling between the transmission and the engine. If it didn't, flywheel torque would break the bellhousing or make it impossible to shift.

However, the shifter linkage can only tolerate up/down angles, because the joints can only rotate one way. A twisting or torsional moment caused by broken motor mounts may place a lot of stress on the shifting linkage, and may explain why people noticed that it was easier to shift after installing new motor mounts.

tommycompton

iTrader: (1)

Makes sense. Infact, when my poly motor mounts melted I probably lost almost an inch in height,(shifting was still good) my oil pan was resting on my swaybar. So you maybe able to get 1/2" or so lower from the motor mounts, any lower you'd be rubbing on the swaybar, less if you have a thicker swaybar.
Then you could shim the cradle, and get more clearance. You maybe able to get away with it, it would be close.
Not sure how far you'd be willing to shim the cradle, and I'm assuming you have a specter or EC hood already.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I have an EC hood, but I haven't installed it yet.

tommycompton

iTrader: (1)

I'm hashing out the details for the eforce, a forum vendor is looking into it, and figuring out pricing. I'll keep everybody in the loop as I find out more.
So far it looks like a viable and simple solution for those wanting an eforce.

253ctsv

Thanks

DMM

This is awesome, Tommy! FWIW - another E-Force owner (Sssnake) recently got his LSA headed/cammed but otherwise stock LS2 up to 650 whp! I believe that was with the 3.5" pulley on 6 lbs of boost. Lots of promise here!

253ctsv

Bump for any vendor info?

tommycompton

iTrader: (1)

No word back yet. Probably give it a couple more days, and if I don't hear anything, I'll message them back.

serik21

So my question is what is our stock block good for power or boost wise before its lon borrowed time? Because for ls6 the general consensus is 550whp

ryridesmotox

It's all in the tune honestly. I've seen unsafe tunes that make less than stock power and blow motors. And I have seen tunes that are very safe that will increase power significantly.

253ctsv

Myself and at least 2 others on the caddy forums are interested

253ctsv

My tuner (who has a ls2 v with maggy) said our stock bottom end is good for over 700hp. Not sure id push it that far but id think with a good setup n tune youre safe in the 600s

DMM

The top piston ring gaps need to be opened up at a minimum. There is no hard rule as to how much power a stock bottom will support, there are too many variables.

I feel as if my stock bottom LS6 is on borrowed time at 10 lbs., however I don't do long Texas mile style WOT pulls either. I'll be going with forged pistons and rods and will then crank up the boost and see what she'll do.

2007V

iTrader: (2)

I'm interested as well. I might prefer retangular ports though.