Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

fuel pump options

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Old 01-31-2014, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
I didn't know that the Hobbs switch was somewhat adjustable. That's good to know. I always liked your light indicator for the pump...the button was always the thing that gave me pause, but when you found those aluminum Oznium products, I was pretty much sold.

Something that I don't yet understand is how much boost (if any) a heavily-overdriven supercharger might make below 2000 RPM. It would be a waste of time and money building/installing the relays, Hobbs switch, and indication lights if both pumps are going to wind up run continuously. It's just something else I have to check on.
I can't speak for the whipple but all eaton/magnuson blowers utilize a bypass so that under light throttle (less than 20% I believe) the incoming air is bypassing the screws. This is how they maintain fuel economy similar to factory.
Old 01-31-2014, 10:45 AM
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mine is overdriven as you can get and watching the gauge during normal driving i rarely go into boost part throttling. any stab at it will instantly go into boost but thats obvious.

depending on your boost level and the fact that full boost comes on instantly id run a hobbs switch thats set for about 50-60% of your max boost.
Old 01-31-2014, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
I didn't know that the Hobbs switch was somewhat adjustable. That's good to know. I always liked your light indicator for the pump...the button was always the thing that gave me pause, but when you found those aluminum Oznium products, I was pretty much sold.
They are only adjustable within their range. When you have a secondary pump that operates on a 'trigger', a light indication is almost mandatory. The push button switch was a little extra bling and because I want the ability to control maximum fuel flow with an override switch. I kept thinking of scenarios when the Hobbs fails or too latent during a 1/4 mile launch. The ability to test the twin pumps is a real treat!

Something that I don't yet understand is how much boost (if any) a heavily-overdriven supercharger might make below 2000 RPM. It would be a waste of time and money building/installing the relays, Hobbs switch, and indication lights if both pumps are going to wind up run continuously. It's just something else I have to check on.
I think this was already answered but if the SC is installed as designed it has a bypass so you don't burn up fuel economy or melt your engine while it idles or part-throttle around town stuffs.

The single DW300 can probably handle 3-4 psi boost however, a positive displacement SC makes full boost extremely fast - like instant. You have to 'fuel follow'. Stomp on the gas and you loose some pressure because you're motion, within a couple seconds you are at full boost - setting the trigger low like at 1-2psi boost enables the secondary fuel pump to maintain volume and pressure.

You have to think of two scenarios - part throttle & WOT. It is safer to have that trigger set right when boost happens. You can always change out the Hobbs with something different but I would start at 1-2psi. You can change them out in the same amount time it takes to change light bulb.



This is an older pic but you can see where I installed the Hobbs in the vacuum manifold. I have everything completely wired since this pic. You can just unplug the Hobbs and unscrew it - reverse that for a higher pressure one.

Last edited by philistine; 01-31-2014 at 01:23 PM.
Old 07-25-2018, 02:18 AM
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Why doesnt anyone use surge tanks on v1's seems like it will eliviate alot of the problems



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