I have cured the wheel hop in my 2005 CTSV.
02-01-2014, 03:45 PM
#21
I like the looks of these, but i think you need to have the revshift cradle bushings, or the Aluminum ones... otherwise i am afraid the subframe is going to be moving around still and will eventually fatigue the subframe connectors.
The design looks good though, I like the simplicity/low weight and ability to stiffen subframe attachment.
It would be interesting to see if a brace across the new front mounting holes makes any difference. (my bet it that it would not be large enough to actually notice, but as a part of an overall stiffening plan could add some stiffness that would be noticeable.
It might be interesting to bend the bars a little wider at the trailing arm mounting bolts so you could bolt a brace across those as well (see BMR's bar)
The design looks good though, I like the simplicity/low weight and ability to stiffen subframe attachment.
It would be interesting to see if a brace across the new front mounting holes makes any difference. (my bet it that it would not be large enough to actually notice, but as a part of an overall stiffening plan could add some stiffness that would be noticeable.
It might be interesting to bend the bars a little wider at the trailing arm mounting bolts so you could bolt a brace across those as well (see BMR's bar)
02-01-2014, 04:08 PM
#22
It would be interesting to see if a brace across the new front mounting holes makes any difference. (my bet it that it would not be large enough to actually notice, but as a part of an overall stiffening plan could add some stiffness that would be noticeable.
It might be interesting to bend the bars a little wider at the trailing arm mounting bolts so you could bolt a brace across those as well (see BMR's bar)
It might be interesting to bend the bars a little wider at the trailing arm mounting bolts so you could bolt a brace across those as well (see BMR's bar)
Love the connectors! Now that you have built them I don't need to (it was on my list).
02-01-2014, 05:28 PM
#23
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Not my car but this is a picture looking rear to front. Bolts to the cradle and then to the body. Same concept (keeping the cradle from rotating up) just executed a little differently.
02-01-2014, 05:58 PM
#24
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Only partially. It's connected at the trailing arm mount, but the rear locations, where the main bushings are, aren't solidly anchored. There will still be some ability for the subframe to move around, but (apparently) not so much that it allows wheel hop.
02-01-2014, 07:36 PM
#27
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Totally agree. Just a thought for the guy that wants a true bolt on application.
02-01-2014, 09:10 PM
#28
Wow, This looks like a killer solution. I'm surprised it took us all of 10 years to figure it out!
Even if it does require a little bit of welding, it would be totally worth it to take it to a shop to have done. It also wouldn't cost a bundle. The rest is just bolt-on.
Even if it does require a little bit of welding, it would be totally worth it to take it to a shop to have done. It also wouldn't cost a bundle. The rest is just bolt-on.
I have welded 100% of my Bolt-in Subframe connectors that I have used over the years. 100% Bolt in is a bad idea.
I like the looks of these, but i think you need to have the revshift cradle bushings, or the Aluminum ones... otherwise i am afraid the subframe is going to be moving around still and will eventually fatigue the subframe connectors.
The design looks good though, I like the simplicity/low weight and ability to stiffen subframe attachment.
It would be interesting to see if a brace across the new front mounting holes makes any difference. (my bet it that it would not be large enough to actually notice, but as a part of an overall stiffening plan could add some stiffness that would be noticeable.
It might be interesting to bend the bars a little wider at the trailing arm mounting bolts so you could bolt a brace across those as well (see BMR's bar)
The design looks good though, I like the simplicity/low weight and ability to stiffen subframe attachment.
It would be interesting to see if a brace across the new front mounting holes makes any difference. (my bet it that it would not be large enough to actually notice, but as a part of an overall stiffening plan could add some stiffness that would be noticeable.
It might be interesting to bend the bars a little wider at the trailing arm mounting bolts so you could bolt a brace across those as well (see BMR's bar)
I want lateral bracing and I will be making them for my car, but not right now.
People have been putting subframe connectors on other cars for years, so it shouldn't be too hard to find a shop that would be willing to weld these on. Shouldn't cost much, either, since it's only those front two reinforcing plates that need to be welded in.
Have folks that have installed the Revshift subframe bushings been reporting that wheel hop is cured? I don't have any intention to get those bushings, so I haven't been paying attention to the threads.
Only partially. It's connected at the trailing arm mount, but the rear locations, where the main bushings are, aren't solidly anchored. There will still be some ability for the subframe to move around, but (apparently) not so much that it allows wheel hop.
Have folks that have installed the Revshift subframe bushings been reporting that wheel hop is cured? I don't have any intention to get those bushings, so I haven't been paying attention to the threads.
Only partially. It's connected at the trailing arm mount, but the rear locations, where the main bushings are, aren't solidly anchored. There will still be some ability for the subframe to move around, but (apparently) not so much that it allows wheel hop.
I have seen first hand, some bolt on bracing and roll bars removed and the bolt holes are elongated.......weld it for superior strength where you can.........
02-02-2014, 12:35 PM
#29
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02-02-2014, 03:18 PM
#31
Yea its pretty shitty. I was shocked it moves as much as it does. I'm going to try bushings first to see how I'd does though.
trailingarmsvideo - YouTube
trailingarmsvideo - YouTube
I will see about getting some video of the bars in the next few weeks to compare as I KNOW my bushings are shot.....lol
Did some more testing yesterday and the rear feels alot more solid and less twitchy.....
02-03-2014, 12:28 PM
#33
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Yea. Its really quite surprising to me as to how little hop there is with a subframe that is that bad. Honestly when I get some time I'm going to replace all the bushings and then build some subframe connectors to try out. They aren't hard to do. It's just some cut and welded boxed steel. I think I'd weld it entirely instead of bolting.
The list of sit to do to the V is getting quite long.
The list of sit to do to the V is getting quite long.
02-03-2014, 01:44 PM
#36
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When I took it, someone requested that I get the taking arms because that was supposed to be an issue... But it's like damn, doesn't matter what the arms do if they aren't connected to anything.
02-03-2014, 05:33 PM
#39
02-03-2014, 06:55 PM
#40
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haha. I just am leery of bolts possibly backing out. I don't want pieces of the car flying off when I get it all setup to run Fontana at 150+mph on a banked oval. Its kind of stressful on componentry. Plus I can't recall what the sheer strength on a grade 8 bolt is, but I know that a good tig filler is 70-80,000 psi. So they won't come apart as long as the person welding is semi competent. Also the connectors would be the last thing I do after poly bushings and 8.8 so hopefully they wouldn't have to come out. To me subframe connectors are a drag car thing, but as much as my rear subframe was rocking around in the video, it might help keep the car going in the right direction.