plug in & play AUX input!
#41
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$80
#43
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Jeez mine got here already. I'm going to install it tomorrow but won't be able to supply and feedback yet because my amp is shot. Anyone selling a stocker?
Also, how exactly does the port stay in place? I see nothing to mount it and keep it tight
$85 to my door
Also, how exactly does the port stay in place? I see nothing to mount it and keep it tight
$85 to my door
#44
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Got mine installed today.
Funny that when I got my headers I drove around for a week or two with the radio off. Now I'll probaby drive around the next week or two with the radio turned up. Goodbye burned CD's in my center console.
Thank you OP!
Edit: anyone getting any feedback when the cable is plugged in but not connected to a device? I don't use XM, just a little annoying.
Funny that when I got my headers I drove around for a week or two with the radio off. Now I'll probaby drive around the next week or two with the radio turned up. Goodbye burned CD's in my center console.
Thank you OP!
Edit: anyone getting any feedback when the cable is plugged in but not connected to a device? I don't use XM, just a little annoying.
It was $85 shipped.
Last edited by MarkOne; 06-27-2014 at 12:21 AM.
#45
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Got mine installed and will do a write up with pics once I install my amp and verify everything works as advertised. Very simple to do with extremely clean results
#46
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I don't see why someone would spend $85+ for an aux Input when a $6 cord works great. I've had one installed on my car for a year and same with my friend. It is in the xm circuit and we just tune to channel zero...and audio plays from phone or whatever just perfect. Xm is still fully functional... I guess I don't get it.
#48
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I don't see why someone would spend $85+ for an aux Input when a $6 cord works great. I've had one installed on my car for a year and same with my friend. It is in the xm circuit and we just tune to channel zero...and audio plays from phone or whatever just perfect. Xm is still fully functional... I guess I don't get it.
This harness is clean way of adding the aux input without having to pull the headunit or splice any wiring though.
#49
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^^^^ DING DING DING.... Just splice into the existing wires.. play your aux audio on channel 0 which is a clean channel. All your XM still works. follow the cadillacFAQs guide and don't waste $85. EASY PEASY.
Ryan95i4....The only benefit I see with this harness, is what you pointed out. You don't have to pull the head unit and splice into wiring. BUT you do have to spend waaaay more time pulling the back seat, the package tray, pulling wires under your carpet and through you console AND you get to pay $85 to do it!! To me that is NOT worth the hassle. Easy to pull the head unit and clip into existing wires. <---My opinion.
SE-R-Spec....I wasn't talking smack??? Just confused why people thought that you lose XM by adding an AUX connection... That's all.
Ryan95i4....The only benefit I see with this harness, is what you pointed out. You don't have to pull the head unit and splice into wiring. BUT you do have to spend waaaay more time pulling the back seat, the package tray, pulling wires under your carpet and through you console AND you get to pay $85 to do it!! To me that is NOT worth the hassle. Easy to pull the head unit and clip into existing wires. <---My opinion.
SE-R-Spec....I wasn't talking smack??? Just confused why people thought that you lose XM by adding an AUX connection... That's all.
#50
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this one allows you to do it without taking hardly anything apart and it physically separates the signal from the aux and the xm so there's no way to get a fuzzy signal, no matter what channel you're on.
for $85 i don't think it's a bad deal.
for $85 i don't think it's a bad deal.
#51
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You have to remove the rear bottom seat, the rear seat back, the sail panels, and the package tray. THEN route wires under the carpet which is a pain in the ***, THEN pull the wire through the console without ripping other wires out.. which can be a huge pain in the *** unless you remove the console bolts. I just had to pull wires for my electric cutouts recently and it was a PAIN in the ***. it takes easily 1/4th the time to pull the head unit and clip in some splices. ALSO there is no static on channel 0... $85 and a PAIN in the ***.. vs a few dollar cord and an hr max for someone who has never removed the head unit... its an easy decision for me.
FYI its an interrupting jack... same design as the jacks on the back of your computer tower. I used that when I added AUX to my base cts. it uses a common ground on LEFT & RIGHT channels and doesn't disrupt the ground when you plug a device in.. Just uses a mechanical switch internally to go from one positive lead to another. Using a common ground on these "floating ground" head units can be disruptive in quality.
FYI its an interrupting jack... same design as the jacks on the back of your computer tower. I used that when I added AUX to my base cts. it uses a common ground on LEFT & RIGHT channels and doesn't disrupt the ground when you plug a device in.. Just uses a mechanical switch internally to go from one positive lead to another. Using a common ground on these "floating ground" head units can be disruptive in quality.
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this install was easy as ****. followed the link in this thread and it was easy as ****. used a hanger to get the wire through to the center console under the carpet. didnt take long at all. i would have rather done this than ripping the head unit out any day. but different strokes for different folks. i thought the cost was high but for the options out there i think it is a solid choice.
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It's only 6 screws/nuts. I get your point but I just didn't want to splice wires. I also took the time to clean the **** that a vacuum doesn't seem to reach at the base of the rear windshield. That was a major bonus for me as its been bugging the **** out of me for some time.
#55
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