This clutch is driving me nuts.
#1
Launching!
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This clutch is driving me nuts.
Good evening guys I have been trying to remedy an issue that I have been having with my V ever since I purchased her back in November. Since the purchase I have been noticing that it is getting more a more difficult to make smooth engagements and disengagements of the clutch which results in some extremely jerky take offs and shifts. The clutch engages and disengages nearly at the top of the pedal and it is literally on or off...I honestly can't slip it to save my life. At the advice of one of our vendors I mopped all of the fluid out of the clutch reservoir and replaced it with new fluid. I drove it around for an hour and then repeated the process hoping that I might have a little better pedal feel but have not had much if any improvement. At this point I think I may have to consider the reality that a clutch may be in my near future but before I saddle up to that cost I wanted to get your take on this. Are these tell tale signs on this car that a clutch swap a must at 67K miles?
#2
TECH Regular
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Hey I'm not saying that a clutch MC is your problem but I'm developing an aftermarket to cure the engagment/disengagement issues.
You can check out the progress here:
http://vseriesforums.com/forums/topi...-mini-project/
Testing begins the first week of June 2014.
You can check out the progress here:
http://vseriesforums.com/forums/topi...-mini-project/
Testing begins the first week of June 2014.
#3
Hey I'm not saying that a clutch MC is your problem but I'm developing an aftermarket to cure the engagment/disengagement issues.
You can check out the progress here:
http://vseriesforums.com/forums/topi...-mini-project/
Testing begins the first week of June 2014.
You can check out the progress here:
http://vseriesforums.com/forums/topi...-mini-project/
Testing begins the first week of June 2014.
#5
I would bleed the clutch before anything. But, I would also.....
Take of the inspection plate and see if you still have the dual mass turd (stock FW) still in there.
If you do, do yourself a favor and replace that p.o.s. with a new clutch. I went Monster Twin Disc and absolutely love it. Other have gone with LS7 clutch and like that too.
Any route you go, there are many options that are better than the stock boat anchor.
Take of the inspection plate and see if you still have the dual mass turd (stock FW) still in there.
If you do, do yourself a favor and replace that p.o.s. with a new clutch. I went Monster Twin Disc and absolutely love it. Other have gone with LS7 clutch and like that too.
Any route you go, there are many options that are better than the stock boat anchor.
#6
Launching!
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To be honest I am not 100% sure of the status of the clutch. Based on the car and what history I have on it I will assume the clutch is still 100% factory original as is the slave. I will get it up on jack stands again this weekend and pull the inspection plate off to see what I can see but I have a feeling that just like everything else on the car she is chronically stock in the clutch arena.
With the way this car rattles on shut down even after brand new factory motor mounts I am very interested in replacing that dual mass flywheel as well.
With the way this car rattles on shut down even after brand new factory motor mounts I am very interested in replacing that dual mass flywheel as well.
#7
Launching!
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Hey I'm not saying that a clutch MC is your problem but I'm developing an aftermarket to cure the engagment/disengagement issues.
You can check out the progress here:
http://vseriesforums.com/forums/topi...-mini-project/
Testing begins the first week of June 2014.
You can check out the progress here:
http://vseriesforums.com/forums/topi...-mini-project/
Testing begins the first week of June 2014.
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#8
TECH Regular
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I am solving hydraulic issues. There is a lot of good advice here in this thread. My product is going to be tested by myself and 2 others. We all have different aftermarket clutches and experience varying degrees of engagement/disengagement issues after going through the arduous bleeding stages and slave gap measurements.
These things surface anywhere from immediately to latent - sometimes 500 miles after break-in.
Some guys never experience any issues after replacing their clutch - it seems hit or miss. A good search will show you apples to apples with completely different outcomes.
These things surface anywhere from immediately to latent - sometimes 500 miles after break-in.
Some guys never experience any issues after replacing their clutch - it seems hit or miss. A good search will show you apples to apples with completely different outcomes.
#9
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Had the opposite issue, where my foot was almost on the floor before it engaged. but after inserting a 5mm shim the pedal position moved upwards to a more comfortable position.
I would look to see what type of slave you have with clutch combo. You may have the wrong combo.
Also you may need to properly bleed the slave, i am using Katechs remove bleeder. ITS SOOOO MUCH EASIER. and all can be done from the engine compartment...
I would look to see what type of slave you have with clutch combo. You may have the wrong combo.
Also you may need to properly bleed the slave, i am using Katechs remove bleeder. ITS SOOOO MUCH EASIER. and all can be done from the engine compartment...
#10
Launching!
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I think I get the same squeak on clutch release, it really bugs me because my fathers 01 dodge 3500 did it intermitently too until it worked it self loose enough that it wouldn't disengage the clutch anymore, really don't want this to happen to my car
Thank you philistine for working to remedy the shifting issue, my car came with a spec clutch and it does the same thing my Trans am did with high rpm shifts, luckily non of the gears have gotten mared up in my Trans yet so I guess I'll have to pony up and pay for a replacement part I shouldn't need lol