Aftermarket Driveshaft Options....
07-03-2014, 10:53 AM
#21
TECH Resident
i am okay with the lower critical speed. i daily drive my car and if i'm ever going in excess of 120-130+ mph on public roads i deserve to have the driveshaft explode on me. i don't track the car either, so that's not a concern. the carbon fiber shaft is just too rich for my blood when in the end i'm just looking for a replacement for the stock driveshaft...
07-03-2014, 11:16 AM
#22
TECH Fanatic
Ok, the shifter fitment issues have been addressed by DSS with all their new shafts.
The one piece carbon shaft has every bit of diameter the aluminum one has.
The two piece after market shafts are not smaller diameter like the stocker, they are all larger.
For something to hit your carbon shaft it would have to some how make it past the exhaust shielding it, and I'd imagine the chances of this are astronomically low. Either way with either shaft if a piece of debris hit it the likely hood of it not needing service is slim to none. The 1 piece shafts are not very thick or rigid.
Like you said, forget about what ever this piece of debris does to the rest of your car.
It's like this OP (in my opinion) the 1 piece aluminum is limiting to 150 MPH or less! So IMO thats out.
The two piece shafts....there is just more to go wrong. Carrier bearing, joints etc. There is no benefit to them IMO, there is more chance to add a vibration feel to the car, as the shaft is mounted to the body of the car. As far as the length debate look at pickup truck shafts, some have carrier bearings, some are really LONG!
The 1 piece carbon is lighter, plenty strong, and is just an amazing piece. (if you can't tell I'm biased)
Pickups don't have as high of a critical speed on their shafts. And most trucks have pretty big driveshafts anyways. My diesel suburban's shaft looked like it was a prop shaft on a aircraft carrier.
07-03-2014, 11:17 AM
#23
TECH Fanatic
i am okay with the lower critical speed. i daily drive my car and if i'm ever going in excess of 120-130+ mph on public roads i deserve to have the driveshaft explode on me. i don't track the car either, so that's not a concern. the carbon fiber shaft is just too rich for my blood when in the end i'm just looking for a replacement for the stock driveshaft...
07-03-2014, 11:36 AM
#24
TECH Resident
i have my motorcycle for going fast and for cars i'm more into the show car scene than track events. i'll build something else a little more economical if i want to build a track car. this car will just be my daily for a good while.
07-07-2014, 12:42 PM
#25
Launching!
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We did make the 2 piece aluminum shaft with the CV in the center, we have not sold many but they do work very well with out any vibration. cost was a bit higher then the single.
07-07-2014, 12:55 PM
#26
^^^I believe I have that 2pc driveshaft on mine with the CS 8.8. I shimmed the carrier bearing to get the proper angle and I have no vibrations. The balance weld toward the shifter area is the only thing I didn't care for - not sure if DSS changed that or not.
I specifically wanted the 2pc driveshaft to avoid angularity with a single piece - there isn't much adjustability without the carrier bearing in the middle.
Just my 2 cents.
I specifically wanted the 2pc driveshaft to avoid angularity with a single piece - there isn't much adjustability without the carrier bearing in the middle.
Just my 2 cents.
07-07-2014, 04:46 PM
#30
^^^I believe I have that 2pc driveshaft on mine with the CS 8.8. I shimmed the carrier bearing to get the proper angle and I have no vibrations. The balance weld toward the shifter area is the only thing I didn't care for - not sure if DSS changed that or not. I specifically wanted the 2pc driveshaft to avoid angularity with a single piece - there isn't much adjustability without the carrier bearing in the middle. Just my 2 cents.
07-07-2014, 09:04 PM
#34
thanks for the replies!
So the angles above will show the relationship between the transmission and the diff from a vertical perspective but how does their alignment horizontally affect how all this works? If the transmission output shaft is pointed slightly towards lets say the right rear wheel and the diffs input shaft is pointed slightly towards the left front wheel, how do we compensate for this or do the u-joints/cv's take care of this....not much room for movement now that all the mounts have been changed and I played a little hell getting the UMI motor mounts into place...i can only hope that the powertrain is square with the drivetrain but i'm not hopeful.
Also, how are the adapters for the 8.8 swap coming along and will we be able to use one on the 2 piece pictured above if we buy your 2 piece as a factory replacement shaft on a stock diff???
Thanks again!!
So the angles above will show the relationship between the transmission and the diff from a vertical perspective but how does their alignment horizontally affect how all this works? If the transmission output shaft is pointed slightly towards lets say the right rear wheel and the diffs input shaft is pointed slightly towards the left front wheel, how do we compensate for this or do the u-joints/cv's take care of this....not much room for movement now that all the mounts have been changed and I played a little hell getting the UMI motor mounts into place...i can only hope that the powertrain is square with the drivetrain but i'm not hopeful.
Also, how are the adapters for the 8.8 swap coming along and will we be able to use one on the 2 piece pictured above if we buy your 2 piece as a factory replacement shaft on a stock diff???
Thanks again!!
Last edited by ls1247; 07-07-2014 at 09:15 PM.
07-08-2014, 10:31 AM
#36
Launching!
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i need to know if the angle is up or down, so help with this so i can get the operating angle.
Transmission flange 2 degrees. (back of trans lower than front ?)
Shaft between trans and carrier 1 degrees (back or shaft lower or higher than front)
Shaft between carrier and diff 1 degrees (back or shaft lower or higher than front)
Pinion flange 0 degrees. this is ok.
Transmission flange 2 degrees. (back of trans lower than front ?)
Shaft between trans and carrier 1 degrees (back or shaft lower or higher than front)
Shaft between carrier and diff 1 degrees (back or shaft lower or higher than front)
Pinion flange 0 degrees. this is ok.
07-08-2014, 11:10 AM
#37
i need to know if the angle is up or down, so help with this so i can get the operating angle. Transmission flange 2 degrees. (back of trans lower than front ?) Shaft between trans and carrier 1 degrees (back or shaft lower or higher than front) Shaft between carrier and diff 1 degrees (back or shaft lower or higher than front) Pinion flange 0 degrees. this is ok.
The numbers I gave you were to the right of the 0 towards the 3 o'clock position, not sure I that is up or down.
07-08-2014, 11:18 AM
#38
Launching!
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wow in not sure is i follow this, you see i need to know this as if the one angle is say 3 down and the 1 degree is up. this would mean there is a 4 degree operating angle. if there both on the same plane then the angle is 2 degrees. can you re-check this will make quite a difference.
07-08-2014, 01:07 PM
#39
Teching In
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I take it the idea is to have the front piece of the Drive shaft and the trans output are aligned axially, and to let the joint in the rear piece handle any misalignment. Vertical alignment seems pretty straight forward, how would you go about measuring for horizontal misalignment?