Putting mounts in, drivers side done. Pasengers side I have the mount bolted to the upper bracket and the bottom loose. Tried getting these in for a while, any tips? I have stock manifolds and the block jacked up.

 

I got the front upper bolt first, than the rear then the lower front. I tightened the bottom mount by feeding an extension through by the lower control arm bushing. It's a pain.

 

Already had one of the top mount bolts in. And couldn't get the lower mount under the mount stud.

 

Haha I can't remember how I did it but there was some cursing going on.. Lol steer clear of starter terminals if your battery is connected.

I think I got the top in with the mount and then fished the bottom piece in. Or I had the bottom jammed in there and I snaked the top and the mount in and then fished the bottom back into play?

If was awhile ago sorry this doesn't sound like much help, but you are dedjnitley on the right track. One side at a time.

 

Tried some combination of that, but took it all back out. I'll try is again tomorrow, was just getting frustrated and had to walk away.

 

I have faith in you, you did the right thing by taking a break.

I've fought with stuff for hrs and walked away. Came back and the part literally fell into place. lol
Good luck and enjoy the mangled hands/knuckles.

 

Did you see the creative steel youtube video on this install?

 

Glad you finally got it. On mine, I ended up moving the jack to the front and jacked from the front if the motor. The mount rotated in and dropped in like it was born there.

 

Has anyone come up with a comparison of what the different mounts available do to the location of the motor? Raise, lower, ect.

 

This has been argued in other posts. Some say the Revshift mount is taller than stock (which revshift disputes and have pics showing the measurements), and I believe that cs is stated to be at stock height. I personally have never heard about the UMI mounts.

 

I haven't got it yet, and I did see the video but they moved them or changed the security or something. I will try moving the jack tonight after work.

 

I had both upper bolts started but loose and I had to loosen the bottom bolts on the drivers side almost all the way to get the bottom of the passenger mount over the large stud. If the drivers side mount was tightened all the way I couldn't lift the motor enough. I had to walk away a couple times too.

 

Everything on my drivers side is all tightened except for the bottom two, they are put in loose. Maybe they need loosened more, I will try that also. They sure made that locating stud longer on the pasenger side than the drivers side.

 

No. The first piece of info we need is where was the drivetrain located when the car was new.

Beyond that all i can tell you is my pinion angles were 2 degrees apart with the UMIs and the CS mount in the car but for all I know it could have been like that when it was brand new and the flex disc coupler accounted for it.

 

You did remove the stud with a reverse torx head didn't you?

 

Yes, thanks

 

I put the passenger side mount into the engine area with the top bracket loose, then tightened it to 1 piece. Then turned the top bracket towards the A/C compressor (had to disconnect 1 or 2 electric connections for additional room). Then I slid the bottom bracket over the stud, turned the whole assembly w/ the top bracket towards the block and was able to place the bottom motor mount stud through the subframe hole. Then it was just bolt-up from there. Bolted up top-down, installing the dipstick after top was mounted to block.

I had my starter out (connection was fried from heat from exhaust manifolds) and had to remove the dipstick to get the mount out originally.

 

That's how I did it. They had to be pretty loose. And also took off the strut brace so you can carefully lift the motor a little more. I didn't remove the starter but that sure would help with that rear bolt. Definitely disconnected both battery terminals.

I have high flow cats and stock manifolds. Iirc, the stock cats are pretty wide and probably don't help your situation. Sometimes I was sitting outside the hub with one arm in front and one behind, sometimes I was in the wheelwell in front of the rotor and sometimes behind the rotor. When I got it all in place and sighed with relief, I realized the locating pin was in the bolt hole and had to loosen both sides again and jack the motor to get it clocked right. I wish the revshift mounts had locating pins like the others.

 

I didn't have to do this. I took the nut off with an electric impact and the stud was frozen to it. Whole thing came out in one piece like a bolt.

 

Thanks, which mount provided you better alignment?