V1 - Best Cam for Stock Heads?
#1
11 Second Club
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: SC
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
V1 - Best Cam for Stock Heads?
So I've been doing a lot of reading on cams for the V1. A lot of people have done upgraded heads at the same time as a cam install. I'm thinking about doing a cam install sometime soon on my LS6 V1, but would like to avoid taking the heads off for budgetary reasons. I'll also be doing LT headers at the same time, but wanted to see what the best option out there is for stock heads. So far the Torquer cams like the V3 look and sound like a decent option, but don't know if it's doable with untouched heads.
This is a daily so still needs drivability, but with more low and mid-range torque, and of course a nice sounding lope. Is this possible on the stock heads? Will valve springs be necessary? My V has 140k miles but has been well taken care of (previous owner was JP of LSXTuning and Performance). Anything else I should do while the install is being done? Timing chain, oil pump, etc? Thanks guys!
This is a daily so still needs drivability, but with more low and mid-range torque, and of course a nice sounding lope. Is this possible on the stock heads? Will valve springs be necessary? My V has 140k miles but has been well taken care of (previous owner was JP of LSXTuning and Performance). Anything else I should do while the install is being done? Timing chain, oil pump, etc? Thanks guys!
#2
TECH Resident
honestly, since i'm in the same boat as you and i'm not really looking for a lot of horsepower...
since i'm going to be taking the heads off regardless so that i can change the lifters and not have to touch them again for another 100k miles (i'm currently at 101k) i'm just going to go for it and get some head work done. it's really worth it in the end when your cam options open way up...
since i'm going to be taking the heads off regardless so that i can change the lifters and not have to touch them again for another 100k miles (i'm currently at 101k) i'm just going to go for it and get some head work done. it's really worth it in the end when your cam options open way up...
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i also vote for pulling the heads with that mileage. your going to want lifters. mill heads straight, new gaskets, seals, springs, push rods etc. also rocker bearing upgrade. a cam is not just a cam.
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (18)
Normally Id say just go for it and throw a cam in but 140k miles is a good amount. You really dont have to do any port work when you pull the heads if you dont want. New seals, springs, clean up the deck and put new lifters in wouldnt be more than $500 over the original cam swap price.
As far as a cam Id say 226/234 or 228/232 for a DD.
As far as a cam Id say 226/234 or 228/232 for a DD.
#6
Im also getting ready to pull the trigger on a cam for my ls2 cts-v. I am very inclined towards the VRX5. I will also be doing harden pushrods, valve seals and dual valve springs as well, which is the bare minimum "suggested" required for a cam swap.
It is still my daily driver, buy i want something aggressive, and i think this cam should do the trick.
Already have a 150 shot of nitrous installed.
It is still my daily driver, buy i want something aggressive, and i think this cam should do the trick.
Already have a 150 shot of nitrous installed.
Trending Topics
#8
I am most likely going to be going with the Texas Speed Torquer v2 112 LSA cam on my stock heads ls2.
It's definitely proven and safe to run. I know more can be squeezed out with a custom grind, but I prefer an off the shelf cam for a variety of reason.
It's definitely proven and safe to run. I know more can be squeezed out with a custom grind, but I prefer an off the shelf cam for a variety of reason.
#9
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
The absolute minimum is new valve springs. I wouldn't trust the stockers for anything with a higher lift than stock, especially after 140k.
If you're doing all the work to install a cam, it would be a big missed opportunity (both cost and power-wise) to not refresh the rest of the valvetrain and do any head work. You'll be much more satisfied with the results in the long run.
If you're doing all the work to install a cam, it would be a big missed opportunity (both cost and power-wise) to not refresh the rest of the valvetrain and do any head work. You'll be much more satisfied with the results in the long run.
#10
Staging Lane
At 140k, I'd highly recommend, at minimum, replacing the valve springs and seals at this point as well. Even if it's just a new set of low cost OE springs, it's a lot cheaper than dropping a valve. Engine maintenance has little to no effect on the springs, they're fatigued and I imagine down 10-20% on seat load from new.
Also going to be in this boat, also with a daily. But I only have a 10 mile round trip so IDGAF how driveable it is as long at it passes the SMOG idle test. FU CA.
Where's the cammed CA smog legal crew at?
Hope to get head work done at that time along with replacing all of the valvetrain components, timing, WP, OP, fueling etc... So IN for more comments and results!
Also going to be in this boat, also with a daily. But I only have a 10 mile round trip so IDGAF how driveable it is as long at it passes the SMOG idle test. FU CA.
Where's the cammed CA smog legal crew at?
Hope to get head work done at that time along with replacing all of the valvetrain components, timing, WP, OP, fueling etc... So IN for more comments and results!
#11
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
I'm scratching my head at anyone who says it's ok to run new stock springs with any cam worth getting. The Torquer v2 (which I have), has basically .600" lift, which is so far beyond stock capacity, they would probably snap in a couple days. Additionally, the Torquer lobes are XE-R, which are not the softest, either.
#12
On The Tree
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Top of 6th Gear
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#15
#16