bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

i have kinda a hackNflow exhaust. i paid a shop to cut the resonator out and put in a true xpipe and mandrel bend some pipe to the magnaflow mufflers back to the stock. was super cheap and came out great. so i dont know how close but its as close to stock as you can get.

hefftone

My 07 was all stock when I bought it in7/2014.
I did revshift 80a engine mounts and trans mount insert. There was no change in rear end noise.....which, there was none to speak of.
Then I did RS 95a cradle bushings.....and there was some rear noise but it was not really all that noticeble, could hear it right around 60 mph. Volume increased with increased throttle input, and moreso the higher the gear.
Then I did the diff bushing, which is a solid poly Energy suspension bushing. And the increase in noise was huge. It still peaks at 60mph....but I hear it a good bit....especially in higher gears...ugh!
I think that once you have solid poly bushings, there just isn't any isolation of some/many frequencies, and they just get transmitted from diff to subframe to chassis.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

all this input is exactly what i wanted to hear. i can deal with the sound. i just dont want to roll into the throttle and have the rear on the ground. at least no more chance then i had before. god forbid GM didnt put a rear the size of a softball in these cars.

isis

iTrader: (1)

The point of my posts here was that I suspect the design of the CS bushing actually mimics the stock shape for a reason. They've already said the block isn't necessary on a daily driver I think but the revshift and I imagine the energy suspension is similar. Lots of surface area. I chose it intentionally because of that but I bet the CS one is so much quieter.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

My 8.8 is so noisy on Revshifts that it'd be worth trying the CS mounts hoping they'd be even just a little better.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

my exact set up is revshift 80a motor mounts, revshift trans insert, revshift 80a front diff bushing, CS diff block, CS 95a rear cradle bushings.

voodoochikin04

iTrader: (3)

Drop the block and switch to CS diff mount.. Probably lose some noise..

DMM

Ryan, I'll give you credit that you're a smart kid...but such a douchebag.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

So I'm a douchebag for pointing out that someone is being a douchebag?

That's basically the same logic as jmargo used earlier. CS copies Revshift, Revshift points it out, Revshift gets banned. Same thing that happened to me on the CadillacForums. When there's no accountability for moderators, their opinion rules.

With regards to the original topic, measure your driveline misalignment angles. You'll be surprised what you'll find. Revshift's transmission mount is basically perfect. Its downsides are that it's non-adjustable (required for aftermarket differentials) and requires a good stock piece. John never wanted to build a full-on replacement part, with or without height/yaw adjustment, and I never understood why. Designing one is another thing on my bucket list.

barrok69

Basically any drivetrain "bushing" you replace with an aftermarket piece will increase drivetrain noise/transmission into the cabin. The factory isolation is very good, (also read super soft and not durable). So, if the only thing you've changed is bushings/isolators then the gear was always making the whine and with the more solid mounting of the cradle and stiffer driveshaft bushing, more noise is going to be transmitted into the cabin. I don't have any experience with using the fluid combo that you mentioned so I'm not going to say it's good or bad. I use Amsoil and haven't noticed any increase or decrease in noise going from stock to Amsoil without changing anything else on the car. My gear noise increased when I upgraded to revshift cradle bushings and diff bushings. A necessary evil unfortunately. I've done some cabin isolation that has helped. But I'm not too worried about the noise really. It isn't unbearable and only a tuned ear can hear it.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

Fuzzy you are just so oblivious man. Anyone could pick through this forum and find a dozen post of you being a dick for no reason. Like I said I know you are knowledgeable but your attitude sucks. I would hate being so miserable that my life became a car and F everyone who doesn't recognize me as the ctsV god.

There is only 1 douchebag in this thread. And they can leave anytime.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

This is no help.

First, measuring angles is useless if the car isn't dead nuts level.

Second, I keep hearing "measure your angles" but measuring angles is useless unless you know what they should ultimately be. Cadillac doesn't publish optimal driveshaft angles, I don't see any on Revshifts website etc etc. Based on the endless studies you can easily find on the internet that address U-Joint alignment, there are optimal suggested angles for those but there aren't any for CVs.

With regard to finding, measuring and adjusting ultimate CV joint operating angles, if you know something that the rest of the world isn't sharing, please be the hero and share it. As far as I can tell, the CVs are designed to compensate for misalignment, its the flex disc/carrier bearing alignment that is crucial (although this isn't published anywhere either). Again, all of that is outlined in the thread I referenced earlier and is simply based on what I've learned from my own experience...take it for what you will.

Read the thread I referenced above and you'll see that we're changing the pinion angle by adding cradle "plates" which isn't the ultimate way to do it but its all we've got for now and it worked for me.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

Check to make sure the driveshaft isn't a bit too long. If I get a new custom DS a little too long, the trans will often complain on decel as the DS loads the gear/thrust washers incorrectly. Remember as you drive the differential moves around, more on some cars than others, so its possible that if you put the car into the air you won't see how close the DS actually gets pressed into the trans.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

The OP is working with a factory 2 piece driveshaft and this is an IRS car so the diff is bolted solidly in place although it may move a tiny bit as its being used. We have had an ongoing discussion about the length of our aftermarket driveshafts mainly because we have to compress the CVs pretty severely to get the thing shoehorned in place. beginning to think the driveshaft should easily install with the CVs in a relaxed state but that isn't the case for most of us. More info here is you're interested...Thanks

https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...vibration.html

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Here's the situation: I'm on a forum, talking to a bunch of guys with strongly held opinions, varying levels of education, and attitudes. They want help but they're not willing to do any actual work to get answers or to test their own theories. In fact, they're so lazy that they're not even willing to read the large body of freely-available, very-easy-to-read documentation written by driveline component manufacturers specifically for them.

Consequently, when I provide the correct answer and it doesn't align with the opinions of the heroes and manufacturers whose opinions they've sucked down, I get a whole bunch of **** in return because nobody's brain is turned on. As soon as Fuzzylog1c comes out and says anything involving "Revshift" or "Creative Steel" or "Gforce" or "DSS" it's teeth bared, dicks out, brains off. As an engineer, my trained reaction to that kind of resistance is to ignore it, be persistent, and systematically answer those questions and re-demonstrate what has already been proven, both in theory and in practice.

But I've been down this road with you guys for almost five years now, and things aren't getting better. Shitty individuals in this community have pissed off and piddled away the good will of good members (anyone remember S-cam?) and great vendors, so whenever I go to develop something new or call up a vendor with a question, I have to defend the community before they'll share information or spend time working with me by pointing out the good members and the good projects and pay full-price to fund projects that--on a different car--might have done for free, based on vendor interest.

So, if you were in my shoes, do I **** off? Or I persistently try to explain what's happening to the CTS-V babbies that throw stupid arguments my way because the answer doesn't involve a Creative Steel product or because they literally don't know anything about the subject? Because I know where that leads: they interpret the discussion that follows as me "talking down to them" or "he's trying to sell me something" and try to get me banned for a lack of community etiquette or secretly being sponsored by that vendor they were told they shouldn't like? Or should I just drop down to the herp-derp "don't take-er-jabs" level and trade insults? I can do every single one of those things, and frankly, it doesn't really matter much to me at this point.

TLDR: the optimum driveline misalignment angle (the sum of all coupling angles) is zero. It's not a vehicle specific thing--physics applies equally to all cars. In a shafting system with two couplings, you'll have a negative angle at the coupling after the transmission prop flange and a positive angle at the coupling before the differential input flange. If you can't make them zero, make them equal and opposite (as best you can) to cancel harmonics.

Supplementary reading:

http://www.gearsolutions.com/article...h-misalignment
http://www.diva-portal.org/smash/get...EXT01.pdfinput
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF
http://www.nrel.gov/docs/fy13osti/56013.pdf

rand49er

Fixed.

Had a wise person tell me once that there's a huge difference between reacting and responding. The above is a response.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for being my filter. You're far more patient than I am.

You're like:



Meanwhile, I'm like:

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

Oh my fuzzy aren't you a special one. To think you have such a stick up your *** over literally nothing. I have no brand loyalty and I didn't ask for a vendor to sell me anything. Your first post was useless and they just keep coming.

You started a forum that nobody goes to so you still hang here and waste people's time.

If you would have simply posted links and your simple explanation in your 1st post I would have been thankful, instead you handle it how you always seem to in post I read with an arrogance thats now turned this thread into bullshit rather than helpful to anyone. I certainly didn't start it thinking it would turn into high school bullshit.

isis

iTrader: (1)

Actually there is helpful info here. And entertainment. And complaining. Good Saturday morning stuff.

10/10 would read again.

voodoochikin04

iTrader: (3)