Anthony Toal

amazon shows the two different 14 Oz cans, 80401 without moly and 80402 with moly. Then I think my issue is I'm not getting grease completely to the surface areas, or my washout and evap is just that bad with the current grease. Core is on the mounting tabs, I just went ahead and got the 80401. As for the end links, no, I was not informed about the central rod, but if it comes down to it, I have acess to a lathe and plenty of stock. So it not bothersome whether someone forgot to tell me a detail, I can always work my way through, but appreciate the heads up fuzzy and the info on the grease

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Amazon's picture for Redline 80401 is the tub of paste, as opposed to the 14 oz grease gun cylinder. Did you purchase it through a third party seller? Here's what I'm looking at:

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-8040.../dp/B0053O9FQS

Regarding grease delivery, I recommend drilling / tapping 1/4"-28 holes in the control arms for Monel grease zerks (McMaster-Carr P/N 1292K41).

If you have Revshift control arm bushings, you can also polish the cores to a pretty nice finish that'll reduce friction as they rotate. I did mine with a drill, a homemade mandrel, and some metal polish. Here's an example with one halfway done. Note the difference between the left side (polished) and the right side (unpolished):

Attachment 720455

If you're going to spend all that money on RacingBeat end links, you should have gotten the 12mm HD version, unless for some reason you don't want to drill out the holes in your control arms.

4doortypels

iTrader: (39)

My front end clunk was the sway bar end links here. Replaced with Moog. They fit perfect and feel much more durable than or. For the bushings I'm running revshift with dielectric grease... Haven't heard one squeak... Make sure to retorque the control arms as mine loosened up. I would go creative steel but they came out after the revshift I believe. Everything from CS has been too notch. Zerks make re greasing easier. The bushings made the front feel more planted with less body roll... But my clunk was the end links... But would do the poly sway bar bushings. I won't argue what grease to use but would as Max from CS what they use

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

I asked just that a couple of weeks ago and was told that they use:

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...grease-nlgi-2/

There is a downloadable sheet there(not the SDS/etc. links but the link beneath that to the downloadable data sheet) that lists a good bit of info including washout @ 1.7%. That seems pretty good compared to many others.

I don't see a spec for evaporation but perhaps one of the other specs factors this in? "Oil separation" is 0 which may cross-indicate. IDK. Edit: oil separation appears to be a relatively unrelated test; following PDF link was pretty informative. "Oxygen Bomb Method" sounds pretty bada$$ and rolls off the tongue nicely.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...hLAd-krOm66huQ

Fuzzy, what's your opinion of this stuff? Since the mfg of my bushings recommended it, I have already ordered some and will use it first at least.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Well Tech recommended this as a "related thread" and I couldn't help myself.. Please tell me there isn't sometbing silly about F-body cars that just makes poly a terrible choice that I haven't thought of?

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-bushings.html

Tuckin15s

iTrader: (10)

I use Beaver buck tooth grizzly red grease and it seems to do an awesome job with bushing and joint life.

Anthony Toal

Im glad you corrected me, https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Oil-...ine+cv-2+80401 is what i got, it shows the canister, in the picture, but the description says Jar, canceled and emailed the vendor of possible mistake.

Your cores look a lot better then mine, I polished them after I dremeled a small channel, used a buffer wheel and some cheap polisher I had at the time.

I have the CS bushing, I tried to keep the holes align as much as possible when I installed, but after marking everything, some rotation has occurred where the grease holes are not lining up fully.

Yea I didnt want to drill the CA and Sway Bar, reason why I didn't go with the Z06s end links

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

polishing the bushing inserts is nice work.

Bio248

eat a dick.

what if he doesn't need them to be as short as possible because he's not lowered? you don't know what he needs and neither does he until he puts them on and measures.

to expand, i've not run the endlinks myself. i still haven't broken my stock ones to give me a reason to swap. so glad you could put it out there that you're the all knowing one and the leave out literally every detail about how they function on your car and how you (dis)like them. sweet. good work.

Anthony Toal

aaah man.... before any more quips happen, I was giving Bio the credit for helping me find the end links, by no means did I state that he was the sole founder, which I thought was weird why Fuzzy would mention his role. Bio is right, and as I have stated before, I can make it work, if it doesn't, then I can return them an go a different route.


Let us know how that grease works out for you Mercier, with me living in northern Texas and the temperature variation, I am willing to try different grease and see what fits my environment best.

Creative Steel

The flange rotates on the stainless plates we provide, revshift rotates on the subframe. If you do not grease that area than it will squeak. If the flange is too thick and the mounting tabs are not making contact with the inner tube, you will have binding issues.

Anthony Toal

I figured as much since i noticed the 4 small channels in the flange that meshes with the washer. The tricky part for me is introducing new grease into the flange mating surfaces, which talking with you guys previously recommended dremeling a channel that leads to the flange, which did help, just gotta move the CA up and down as i pump a load of grease. This is my first time going poly, so maybe I was just hoping it would be easier. But its better than having to remove the CAs every time to grease them. Just so you guys have the information, its the Lower CA, the larger bushing, does it on both driver and passenger side. everything else is smooth operation, just need to spend more time on those two.

Creative Steel

I believe I was the one that talked to you, and I appreciate the input. We are redesigning the grease channels on the flanges of all our bushings and redesigning the molds to retain grease and flow it to where it needs to be.

And yes, having a greaseable bolt is a lifesaver!

Tuckin15s

iTrader: (10)

I just wanted to point out this made me laugh.

Anthony Toal

Let me know, i will order the new design and give them a shot.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

My sentiments exactly.....Good job Nick. lol

WS6WRX

iTrader: (1)

There is something funky about F-bodies that make poly bushings in the rear control arms a bad idea if you want to do more than go fast in a straight line. During cornering the rear control arms need to twist laterally. Poly bushings prevent enough of this to cause erratic handling. This is from first hand experience on my '02 WS6 many years ago. After much frustration and consultation with Sam Strano (who was at the time the SCCA AutoX national champ), I switched to Moog HD rubber bushings and the car cornered like normal again.

That said, I ended up with a set of spherical joint control arms and did notice an improvement over rubber.

Of course much of this was covered in the other thread already.... I started typing before I read it.

isis

iTrader: (1)

I know that name. Fatty front swaybars for scoobs.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I assume that's because of the lack of an independent rear suspension?

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Look at the video posted recently in that thread. I basically got my a$$ handed to me on the poly in F-bodies and some others..which i am good with--always like to learn. But the video talking about the IRS with poly has me thinking we may run into a little of the same with our trailing arms. Maybe not. Need to get a break from work and get mine back on the lift and try it out. And put the engine in. And the trans, diff, axles. And everything else.