BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

There's certainly a point at which the mods you need to make to reach a numerical "goal" don't seem to justify the cost or compromises they create. 484/448 is pretty stout for an NA car. 350 lb/ft of torque (my peak) at 3100 rpm is awesome.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

I agree with Bud, pick the number it's worth to hit your number. If it's doable, go with the bigger MAF and get the FAST ported, retune...done and done. The difference of area between a 102mm circle and an 85mm circle is WAY more than 17mm. 85mm circle area is 5674mm2, 102mm is 8171mm2, more than 50% more cross sectional area.

MIGHT get there with just the port job, seen it happen and with as much airflow potential as you have, you may be a candidate. Call Mamo and discuss would be my suggestion. Who did your dyno tune?

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Couple hundo to put it on a more "optimistic" dyno. Cheapest HP you'll likely find if you are chasing the number..

For the record, I do agree with Bud; you've built a bad b!tch and the actual number isn't going to matter much. Even if we're being conservative(probably more loss than normal with IRS and other heavy things) at 15% loss, 484 / .85 = 569HP at the crank. Impressive.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

I'll go along with this too! Those numbers and that CURVE are wicked awesome and in a 4k lb car, you're going to be untouchable by most stock cars and even most modded ones. May want to drive it a bit, sort any bugs and just enjoy it. Then, if you need more, jump it up meaningfully.

Anthony Toal

you guys know how to stroke a man ego, I will put some planning down and see how far i can go without breaking my neck in dollar signs. I got it tuned at 21st Century Muscle Cars. But you guys are right, I just had my goal at 500 and was pretty damn close to meet it. Ill work on keep rubber on the ground without slipping and go from there, might try and get a 1/4 time at the Texas Motorplex before i move back to GA here in a few weeks. If i need more, I can always go with the juice, the whole drive line is rated at 700 tq on the low end

I guess I need to figure out what to do with this LS6 then, im guessing 383 Blown in a Factory Five GTM

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Historial data puts the drivetrain losses at 0.83 coefficient. Stock LS6 CTS-Vs tested at 330-340 RWHP when they were new. The majority were in the 332-334 RWHP range.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

I agree, 17-18% loss - similar to f-body A4 cars - is a great estimate.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

IF you must and IF 21st would do a retune for a discount, I'd be tempted to Mamo-port that FAST and use one of these MAFs with a single sized intake tract. http://www.texas-speed.com/c-3334-ma...w-sensors.aspx

Drive it, see how you like it while you re-look the goals vs budget. Seriously, that NA curve is fat.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

05CTSV did 523HP @ 6800RPM with a 418(LS3 block) with GM CNC LS3s, BTR 400+ inch N/A cam, FAST 102 with mid-length runners. All typical supporting mods. Dynojet dyno. I looked up 21st Century Muscle Cars and it looks like they advertise dynojet on their site. Was it some other kind of dyno? If not, you might have some semi-affordable power left in your combo.

EDIT: SD tune (no MAF) and STOCK throttle body. 482TQ.

Give all the details of the cam?

Anthony Toal

I might try the MAF Jmilz is throwing and go for the mid length runners, I am moving to GA so I have to find another reputable shop on the east coast, it might not be a 17% loss with the 8.8 swap and 1pc AL shaft, I will see what i can do to increase efficiency.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Vengeance Racing is in GA IIRC, some of the best tuners around.
I'll bet the 8.8 is less efficient, the Al DS more - would likely be a wash and put you in the 17-18%. Poly bushings (cradle, toe rod, trailing arm) may tighten it up a tad and let more get to the roller. Regardless of the runner length you choose, a Mamo port will net you 10-20rwhp from what I've seen. You may pick up similar from the MAF uplift, but be prepared for the tuning effort. Mercier brought up SD, that would get you there with the right tuner and open up the intake too, just not my preference. UD pulley is an easy 8-10hp on stock cars, just make sure to account for the changes to PS and alt, if they matter.

Anthony Toal

[QUOTE=Mercier;
Give all the details of the cam?[/QUOTE]

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1413&sb=0

Anthony Toal

I will check them out, I think i have a feasible quest to 500

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

The Texas Speed unit is overpriced. I use a MRP Machine Shop 102mm MAF adapter ($100), which requires a LS3-style MAF sensor ($50) just like the Texas Speed unit does. Note that this will require a retune immediately after installation--go to the shop prepared and talk to your tuner ahead of time to ensure that he knows what to do.



FWIW, if you want to go stupid cheap, the costs $28 with Prime shipping.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Yep, I like Fuzzy's solution too...that's why the page had both MAFs on there. He's right about the tuner, the distance of the MAF from the TB matters, not all will know that. Good advice.

Anthony Toal

So try and put the MAF as close tot he TB as possible? wasnt aware of that

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Nope, there is a window it needs to be in, too close or too far and it will never tune properly. Don't ask me what that is but a look at any LS3/LS7 car with a tape should get you there.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

GM recommends that you keep the MAF at least 10" away from the throttle body to avoid flow reversion-related measurement issues.

Here's what the GM crate engine control system instructions say about it (credit to patooyee for finding this):

"Ensure the MAF sensor is oriented correctly in the induction (it will
only read correctly in the proper direction). An arrow is located on the
sensor indicating correct flow direction. Verify this before welding the
mounting boss, as the sensor will mount only one way in the boss.

Ensure the MAF Sensor is mounted in the middle of a minimum 6 inch
length of 4 inch diameter tube, and is a minimum of 10 inches from
the throttle body."

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

BAM! Fuzzy FTW. I know this is for the cartridge MAFs, not certain if it's for the honeycomb lookin dudes or not. Given the cost, I'd go with the cartridge. As was already said, make sure your tuner is comfortable with it.

Anthony Toal

Great info everyone, thank you so much! Is it Mamo motor sports that does the porting? I think I will do the porting and the MAF and go from there. Hopefully can get this done in a couple of months