Need some exhaust advise
#62
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Waiting on my headers to get coated, but in the meantime i bought me a mirror tool, and discovered that my front and rear manifold bolts are broke on the driver side, from the bad stock motor mount before im assuming.
But there broke off inside, anyone know how i could get these out when im ready??
Should i try to get a welder and weld them out with a nut? Or try to find a small angle drill and tap them out??
But there broke off inside, anyone know how i could get these out when im ready??
Should i try to get a welder and weld them out with a nut? Or try to find a small angle drill and tap them out??
#64
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Yea im sure its not gonna be easy, was thinking of maybe trying something like this. Any suggestions?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/90-Degree-Righ...257Ciid%253A16
http://m.ebay.com/itm/90-Degree-Righ...257Ciid%253A16
#68
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Make sure to use this: https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroi...ords=aerokroil
#69
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
http://performancekote.com/coatings.html
This is the ceramic coating i will be going with, a place in orlando, thermal barrier coating will be black and hold up to 2000 degrees. They will sand blast and double coat inside and out and cure it.
3 yr warranty and I beleive they said something like its like 15 degrees per sq inch and will keep total heat down under hood 25%
Any opinions on that anyone?
I finally saved up the funds to coat them, will be around 275-300 bucks
Was gonna have swain tech do them, spoke to them on the phone, but they said there wait is 4-5 weeks at the moment, but there trying to get back down to 3
This is the ceramic coating i will be going with, a place in orlando, thermal barrier coating will be black and hold up to 2000 degrees. They will sand blast and double coat inside and out and cure it.
3 yr warranty and I beleive they said something like its like 15 degrees per sq inch and will keep total heat down under hood 25%
Any opinions on that anyone?
I finally saved up the funds to coat them, will be around 275-300 bucks
Was gonna have swain tech do them, spoke to them on the phone, but they said there wait is 4-5 weeks at the moment, but there trying to get back down to 3
Last edited by Mike ctsV; 07-26-2017 at 09:02 PM.
#70
In your mind, you need to separate the concepts of temperature rating and thermal insulation (coefficient of thermal conductivity). Steel has a temperature rating of 2500°F but has very poor heat insulating properties.
What we actually need is someone to do a scientific test on all this stuff with an IR thermometer or FLIR to provide worthwhile comparison information.
What we actually need is someone to do a scientific test on all this stuff with an IR thermometer or FLIR to provide worthwhile comparison information.
#71
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
In your mind, you need to separate the concepts of temperature rating and thermal insulation (coefficient of thermal conductivity). Steel has a temperature rating of 2500°F but has very poor heat insulating properties.
What we actually need is someone to do a scientific test on all this stuff with an IR thermometer or FLIR to provide worthwhile comparison information.
What we actually need is someone to do a scientific test on all this stuff with an IR thermometer or FLIR to provide worthwhile comparison information.
#72
I'm not sure if it'll work. Over the past 3-4 years, I've heard widespread praise for Swain Tech and any other coating. That doesn't mean Swain Tech has the only good coating, but when you look at the specs and cross-reference what racing teams use, it all points to White Lightning being the only non-cosmetic coating that anybody knows about.
#73
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
I'm not sure if it'll work. Over the past 3-4 years, I've heard widespread praise for Swain Tech and any other coating. That doesn't mean Swain Tech has the only good coating, but when you look at the specs and cross-reference what racing teams use, it all points to White Lightning being the only non-cosmetic coating that anybody knows about.
#74
TECH Addict
iTrader: (13)
Yep, withstanding the heat and insulating are different. Check Flamemaster coatings. There are none better in the industries they serve. My company uses their stuff in other applications and I am just now looking into seeing how well some of their stuff would fit exhaust applications....I suspect quite well.
#75
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
They say they been doing it for 17 yrs, been doing for speed shops and airboat shops. Its a aluminized ceramic coating that is used on nasa space ships. So its an insulation instead of just a high heat paint. Two coats at 0.4 mills thick so it will be 0.8 mills and will hold 2000 degrees without any discoloration.
They say if It didn't work they wouldn't still be in business
Someone gove them a call and tell me what u think lol 407-445-2026
They say if It didn't work they wouldn't still be in business
Someone gove them a call and tell me what u think lol 407-445-2026
Last edited by Mike ctsV; 07-27-2017 at 10:06 AM.
#76
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
A lot of people are telling me to run them bare, no need to coat them cause there stainless, and to only wrap the starter and everyhing else will be fine. But im not listening to them because of all the advice im founding out around this site. So i want them insulated for extra insurance and less problem in the long run
#77
TECH Addict
iTrader: (13)
This all revolves around your definition of "need." You NEED to keep exhaust heat off the wire harness and starter. That is the actual need. Most people run stainless headers bare, I did in my f-body and it was all fine. It was fine because I insulated the starter and moved wiring out of the way. You must deal with that one way or the other. Now, do you NEED ceramic coating if you do that? No. Will you benefit? Yes. Keeping the heat inside the exhaust will give you some improved efficiency. It will also provide some sound insulation and extra corrosion protection. Those are benefits for sure, but not needs. Really depends on how far you want to take the effort.
#78
Banned
iTrader: (1)
Insulating improves everything. Temperature goes up because fuel is burning, money is $$on fire. Anytime that temp can escape to the atmosphere is lost $$. Too much temp rise kept in the engine can also be bad- so a balance is needed. When the engine is making big power, temp relief is required, water injection is a cheap way to cool things down. When the engine is cruising, you want that $$ trapped, that temp rise insulated, for economy, efficiency.
#79
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Make sure to use this: https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroi...ords=aerokroil
#80
The main advantage to insulating your headers comes from lowering your IATs. Engines are essentially heat pumps, and therefore their efficiency is strongly correlated with the ratio of intake to exhaust temperature.