Cam or Lightened Flywheel?
#1
Cam or Lightened Flywheel?
So, should I go with a torquer Cam by Katech, or a lighter flywheel. The cam alone picked up 40 Ftlbs of tq on the test stock V. I don't think i will pick up as much because I already have a few mods..
I don't want to lopey of an Idle? I want it to sound almost stock when idling.
I don't want to lopey of an Idle? I want it to sound almost stock when idling.
#2
with your mods, a cam will be very nice. You seem to have a good flow of air inand out of your motor and a better flowing cam would like that. I saw a dyno sheet on that cam and i was impressed.
Just know that it would require, which im sure you are, a new dyno tune. Also, while you are at it, i would suggest a few upgrades to your valvetrain like pushrods, springs, etc. IT would make to whole package that much more reliable. Well, im not sure on the specs of that cam, expecially the lift, but i would feel better if i did do the valvetrain.
Then i would do the flywheel. Its a nice addition. I would like to do the big mod first, get the power over the 400rwhp/trq., which should be NO problem, maybe even 410rwhp.trq. than get the flywheel and enjoy the power and the quicker reving motor.
Also, the beefied up valvetrain will allow you to rev the motor higher therefore taking adanvantage of your new cams power producing capabilities!! these motors like turning hihger rpm's and make great power when taken close to 7k or over...they love to rev higher and higher!!
good luck!!
Just know that it would require, which im sure you are, a new dyno tune. Also, while you are at it, i would suggest a few upgrades to your valvetrain like pushrods, springs, etc. IT would make to whole package that much more reliable. Well, im not sure on the specs of that cam, expecially the lift, but i would feel better if i did do the valvetrain.
Then i would do the flywheel. Its a nice addition. I would like to do the big mod first, get the power over the 400rwhp/trq., which should be NO problem, maybe even 410rwhp.trq. than get the flywheel and enjoy the power and the quicker reving motor.
Also, the beefied up valvetrain will allow you to rev the motor higher therefore taking adanvantage of your new cams power producing capabilities!! these motors like turning hihger rpm's and make great power when taken close to 7k or over...they love to rev higher and higher!!
good luck!!
#5
Originally Posted by obZidian
with your mods, a cam will be very nice. You seem to have a good flow of air inand out of your motor and a better flowing cam would like that. I saw a dyno sheet on that cam and i was impressed.
Just know that it would require, which im sure you are, a new dyno tune. Also, while you are at it, i would suggest a few upgrades to your valvetrain like pushrods, springs, etc. IT would make to whole package that much more reliable. Well, im not sure on the specs of that cam, expecially the lift, but i would feel better if i did do the valvetrain.
Then i would do the flywheel. Its a nice addition. I would like to do the big mod first, get the power over the 400rwhp/trq., which should be NO problem, maybe even 410rwhp.trq. than get the flywheel and enjoy the power and the quicker reving motor.
Also, the beefied up valvetrain will allow you to rev the motor higher therefore taking adanvantage of your new cams power producing capabilities!! these motors like turning hihger rpm's and make great power when taken close to 7k or over...they love to rev higher and higher!!
good luck!!
Just know that it would require, which im sure you are, a new dyno tune. Also, while you are at it, i would suggest a few upgrades to your valvetrain like pushrods, springs, etc. IT would make to whole package that much more reliable. Well, im not sure on the specs of that cam, expecially the lift, but i would feel better if i did do the valvetrain.
Then i would do the flywheel. Its a nice addition. I would like to do the big mod first, get the power over the 400rwhp/trq., which should be NO problem, maybe even 410rwhp.trq. than get the flywheel and enjoy the power and the quicker reving motor.
Also, the beefied up valvetrain will allow you to rev the motor higher therefore taking adanvantage of your new cams power producing capabilities!! these motors like turning hihger rpm's and make great power when taken close to 7k or over...they love to rev higher and higher!!
good luck!!
I think you need to do more research before posting like this!!!! Just my opinion, see, the cam was designed as a drop in replacement for LS6 engines. You DON'T need new springs and the RPM really won't have to change because the powerband doesn't go up there. That cam was designed for the street, not drag racing, so it is makes great power through the mid range.
The other thing I would say is what kind of "Beefed Up" valvetrain are you talking about? If you stick with a beehive spring, that is good, dual or single regular springs = bad motion.
I do agree with the pushrods, I think the factory ones have less than to be desired.
I don't want to sound offensive here, but we just to get our facts straight.
#6
I'm also looking into a street cam. Something where I don't have to get into the heads. I want to be in the 400's rwhp naturally aspirated.
I have the BB xpipe exhaust, LF CAI. Add headers and a cam.
And a little nitrous for when those special occasions.
I have the BB xpipe exhaust, LF CAI. Add headers and a cam.
And a little nitrous for when those special occasions.
#7
like i posted before, the cam looks like a great mod, the only thing is the install???
kind of expensive. For the katech cam they suggest springs to be on the SAFE SIDE.
It will work well without but if your opening p the engine why not take this precaution.
kind of expensive. For the katech cam they suggest springs to be on the SAFE SIDE.
It will work well without but if your opening p the engine why not take this precaution.
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#9
Hmm if you going to upgrade and get a cam, GET A CAM. Sure there are a lot of drivable cams out there that will give you more power IMHO. I figure if you going to change out the springs ect. might as well get a CAM that will produce more power. The only reason I see to get this katech cam, is to only have to purchase the cam and not the extras, no flame to katech at all, but the problem I see is your paying the install anyways why not just do it right the first time and get a cam that will gain a lot more ???
#11
Originally Posted by UMIRacing
Ummmm, yeah,
I think you need to do more research before posting like this!!!! Just my opinion, see, the cam was designed as a drop in replacement for LS6 engines. You DON'T need new springs and the RPM really won't have to change because the powerband doesn't go up there. That cam was designed for the street, not drag racing, so it is makes great power through the mid range.
The other thing I would say is what kind of "Beefed Up" valvetrain are you talking about? If you stick with a beehive spring, that is good, dual or single regular springs = bad motion.
I do agree with the pushrods, I think the factory ones have less than to be desired.
I don't want to sound offensive here, but we just to get our facts straight.
I think you need to do more research before posting like this!!!! Just my opinion, see, the cam was designed as a drop in replacement for LS6 engines. You DON'T need new springs and the RPM really won't have to change because the powerband doesn't go up there. That cam was designed for the street, not drag racing, so it is makes great power through the mid range.
The other thing I would say is what kind of "Beefed Up" valvetrain are you talking about? If you stick with a beehive spring, that is good, dual or single regular springs = bad motion.
I do agree with the pushrods, I think the factory ones have less than to be desired.
I don't want to sound offensive here, but we just to get our facts straight.
("Sigh")
I didnt say anything that might make him/her make a wrong choice, i was just offering advice. I did mention that i didnt know the exact cam spec. and if i did know the lift specs, i would suggest the according spring package. Let say the beehive for anything under .600 or maybe a set of the duals for anything above that up unitl .650 lift.
I understand that the cam doesnt NEED a whole new powertrain, that is why i was making a suggestion.... I always recommend upgrading while you are at it, i mean why not, it helps out since you are throwing more lift, duration, ramp speed (probably) at the stock valvetrain..... IT just seems logical to me.
#13
Originally Posted by haveboost
Well some of us want to have a little extra power, but don't want to deal with a lumpy idle.
I'm inquiring about the cam because I've had good luck in the past.
D.F.
I'm inquiring about the cam because I've had good luck in the past.
D.F.
interesting, a good rule of thumb is that if you want a smooth idling cam stay with a large lobe seperation like a 114lsa and a good tune.
however, with a good tune, you can make a 111lsa cam maintain a "smooth" idle...the tune is what makes or breaks it sort speak, though the cam spec is literally the conductor of the symphony and its not easy hiding its intent.
check this out, you might be interested.....
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
good article and its relatively easy to do. All you need is patience and the proper tools nd you'll surprise yourself!!!
Last edited by obZidian; 01-25-2006 at 05:57 PM.
#14
Seeming how the stock springs give up around 6700 with the stock cam...going with a larger cam may just cause some valve floating under the rev limit...it was a good suggestion IMO.
I've heard good things about MTI's Stealth cams, it may be just what you're looking for.
I've heard good things about MTI's Stealth cams, it may be just what you're looking for.
#15
Originally Posted by alcast082
like i posted before, the cam looks like a great mod, the only thing is the install???
kind of expensive. For the katech cam they suggest springs to be on the SAFE SIDE.
It will work well without but if your opening p the engine why not take this precaution.
kind of expensive. For the katech cam they suggest springs to be on the SAFE SIDE.
It will work well without but if your opening p the engine why not take this precaution.
Actually, the stock LS6 springs work great.
The idle with this cam is beautiful guys. It's not terribly lopey, but hints at some thing extra under the hood. If nobody told you, you might not even notice.
#18
Originally Posted by obZidian
with your mods, a cam will be very nice. You seem to have a good flow of air inand out of your motor and a better flowing cam would like that. I saw a dyno sheet on that cam and i was impressed.
Just know that it would require, which im sure you are, a new dyno tune. Also, while you are at it, i would suggest a few upgrades to your valvetrain like pushrods, springs, etc. IT would make to whole package that much more reliable. Well, im not sure on the specs of that cam, expecially the lift, but i would feel better if i did do the valvetrain.
Then i would do the flywheel. Its a nice addition. I would like to do the big mod first, get the power over the 400rwhp/trq., which should be NO problem, maybe even 410rwhp.trq. than get the flywheel and enjoy the power and the quicker reving motor.
Also, the beefied up valvetrain will allow you to rev the motor higher therefore taking adanvantage of your new cams power producing capabilities!! these motors like turning hihger rpm's and make great power when taken close to 7k or over...they love to rev higher and higher!!
good luck!!
Don't waste your time, he's a internet racer, and now a internet engine builder. That cam is sooo close to a stock ls6 cam it's silly. They basically added more lift and cut the LSA a bit. You could accomplish about the same results with 1.8 roller rockers.
obZidian: As for the 7000rpm powerband.... I can't wait for someone to take your "advice" and pop their motor, then have to fly to Miami and you for being a dumb azz. The amount of ignorant **** you post really should be limited so the uninformed don't follow your "advice".
with your mods, a cam will be very nice. You seem to have a good flow of air inand out of your motor and a better flowing cam would like that. I saw a dyno sheet on that cam and i was impressed.
Just know that it would require, which im sure you are, a new dyno tune. Also, while you are at it, i would suggest a few upgrades to your valvetrain like pushrods, springs, etc. IT would make to whole package that much more reliable. Well, im not sure on the specs of that cam, expecially the lift, but i would feel better if i did do the valvetrain.
Then i would do the flywheel. Its a nice addition. I would like to do the big mod first, get the power over the 400rwhp/trq., which should be NO problem, maybe even 410rwhp.trq. than get the flywheel and enjoy the power and the quicker reving motor.
Also, the beefied up valvetrain will allow you to rev the motor higher therefore taking adanvantage of your new cams power producing capabilities!! these motors like turning hihger rpm's and make great power when taken close to 7k or over...they love to rev higher and higher!!
good luck!!
Originally Posted by UMIRacing
Ummmm, yeah,
I think you need to do more research before posting like this!!!! Just my opinion, see, the cam was designed as a drop in replacement for LS6 engines. You DON'T need new springs and the RPM really won't have to change because the powerband doesn't go up there. That cam was designed for the street, not drag racing, so it is makes great power through the mid range.
The other thing I would say is what kind of "Beefed Up" valvetrain are you talking about? If you stick with a beehive spring, that is good, dual or single regular springs = bad motion.
I do agree with the pushrods, I think the factory ones have less than to be desired.
I don't want to sound offensive here, but we just to get our facts straight.
I think you need to do more research before posting like this!!!! Just my opinion, see, the cam was designed as a drop in replacement for LS6 engines. You DON'T need new springs and the RPM really won't have to change because the powerband doesn't go up there. That cam was designed for the street, not drag racing, so it is makes great power through the mid range.
The other thing I would say is what kind of "Beefed Up" valvetrain are you talking about? If you stick with a beehive spring, that is good, dual or single regular springs = bad motion.
I do agree with the pushrods, I think the factory ones have less than to be desired.
I don't want to sound offensive here, but we just to get our facts straight.
obZidian: As for the 7000rpm powerband.... I can't wait for someone to take your "advice" and pop their motor, then have to fly to Miami and you for being a dumb azz. The amount of ignorant **** you post really should be limited so the uninformed don't follow your "advice".
#19
Thanks. I was leaning towards the Cam. Vette doctors will do a street cam for me, and retune. He also said he can tune it so at idle you won't even know I was cam'n.
He claimed easily another 30 ftlbs of torque and probably make over 400RWHP over the last dyno tune. He only recommended changing the valve springs. So, I assume it's not too crazy, but much better than stock. Unfortunately I didn't get the name or specs.
He claimed easily another 30 ftlbs of torque and probably make over 400RWHP over the last dyno tune. He only recommended changing the valve springs. So, I assume it's not too crazy, but much better than stock. Unfortunately I didn't get the name or specs.