Who's V is a track whore?
06-04-2008, 06:42 PM
#21
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I would do brake fluid and pads, this is a must, I boiled my stock fluid at VIR last year during my second 20 min session on street tires and then replaced it with AP 600. I run Hawk HP+ normally year round, very dusty but work really well on track with almost no fade. The next thing I would do would be a good alignment as this can make a huge difference in how a car handles. After that if I were serious I would get a set of wheels and dedicated track tires, Hoosier A6's if you can afford to replace them every other weekend of tracking, but are probably the fastest DOT tire you can buy. Hoosier's R6's would last a lot longer but would not be as fast. Kumho V710's would be somewhere between the 2 Hoosiers tires. The next step down would be something like Toyo RA1's if you can still find them or their new replacement. As far as shocks go it is a matter of what you want to spend. I personally wouldn't put the Eibach springs on for performance reasons as I believe they are more for looks, if you want to go with stiffer spring rates and lower the car I would do the GC set up or the KW. Just be careful how much you lower it as it can have negative effect on the cars handling by adversely affecting things like roll height and bumpsteer and can often do more damage than good, as an example on a SN95 Mustang lowering more than 1" will take the front roll center to low and as you approach the 2" mark the roll center can actually go below ground level which is not a good thing which is why Steeda makes the X2 ball joint to help correct the roll height and the good after market K members have different p/u points for the A-arm attatcment. Just some food for thought.
06-05-2008, 10:28 AM
#26
I would do brake fluid and pads, this is a must, I boiled my stock fluid at VIR last year during my second 20 min session on street tires and then replaced it with AP 600. I run Hawk HP+ normally year round, very dusty but work really well on track with almost no fade. The next thing I would do would be a good alignment as this can make a huge difference in how a car handles. After that if I were serious I would get a set of wheels and dedicated track tires, Hoosier A6's if you can afford to replace them every other weekend of tracking, but are probably the fastest DOT tire you can buy. Hoosier's R6's would last a lot longer but would not be as fast. Kumho V710's would be somewhere between the 2 Hoosiers tires. The next step down would be something like Toyo RA1's if you can still find them or their new replacement. As far as shocks go it is a matter of what you want to spend. I personally wouldn't put the Eibach springs on for performance reasons as I believe they are more for looks, if you want to go with stiffer spring rates and lower the car I would do the GC set up or the KW. Just be careful how much you lower it as it can have negative effect on the cars handling by adversely affecting things like roll height and bumpsteer and can often do more damage than good, as an example on a SN95 Mustang lowering more than 1" will take the front roll center to low and as you approach the 2" mark the roll center can actually go below ground level which is not a good thing which is why Steeda makes the X2 ball joint to help correct the roll height and the good after market K members have different p/u points for the A-arm attatcment. Just some food for thought.
Regarding tires, I finally made the switch to race compounds, but on the cheap. Unsually in the winter time, Hoosier sells discountinued race series rubber for a a great price. I got 4 245/40/18's for $606 shipped. They were GrandAm cup tires, which are based off the R6 compound, but are a bit harder, to live through the 3ish hour long racecs. Certainly not as sticky as A6's, but a lot better than most DOT race tires (these are track only not DOT approved). Bonus points for having the cool white letters on the tires (http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/2790/043nk6.jpg)
https://www.hoosiertire.com/discontinuedtires.htm
-Chris
06-05-2008, 11:34 AM
#27
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Bonus points for having the cool white letters on the tires (http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/2790/043nk6.jpg)
https://www.hoosiertire.com/discontinuedtires.htm
-Chris
https://www.hoosiertire.com/discontinuedtires.htm
-Chris
Someone stole your V badges, twofitty?
White on outer tire is
, unless you are heading for track, so
!
06-05-2008, 11:56 AM
#28
I agree on the white lettering. Off track, looks like Montgomery Ward Tiger Pawz tires. @ the track though,
-Chris
Last edited by trukk; 06-05-2008 at 02:38 PM.
06-05-2008, 01:04 PM
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Everyone has good opinions but if your going to do it, do it right! Lighter wheels, tires, upgade stock brakes (lines,fluid,pads,rotors).....You should be killing a set of rotors and pads after one good race! keep that in mind=(maybe) Make it lighter if you don't care that it looks like a race car. ALL BMR except pinion support crap! Hotchkis, springs (eibach or etc. Engine strut brace is mostly for looks (stock) upgrade that. FG2
I am thinking about buying one to do the same but its still heavy and the rear is crap.
I used to road race mine and it would fly by M3's, vettes etc. BUT i had the driver mod and they didn't........
I am thinking about buying one to do the same but its still heavy and the rear is crap.
I used to road race mine and it would fly by M3's, vettes etc. BUT i had the driver mod and they didn't........
06-05-2008, 03:03 PM
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Everyone has good opinions but if your going to do it, do it right! Lighter wheels, tires, upgade stock brakes (lines,fluid,pads,rotors).....You should be killing a set of rotors and pads after one good race! keep that in mind=(maybe) Make it lighter if you don't care that it looks like a race car. ALL BMR except pinion support crap! Hotchkis, springs (eibach or etc. Engine strut brace is mostly for looks (stock) upgrade that. FG2
I am thinking about buying one to do the same but its still heavy and the rear is crap.
I used to road race mine and it would fly by M3's, vettes etc. BUT i had the driver mod and they didn't........
I am thinking about buying one to do the same but its still heavy and the rear is crap.
I used to road race mine and it would fly by M3's, vettes etc. BUT i had the driver mod and they didn't........
All BMR suspension.. I have a line on Hotchkis sways
still undecided on springs/coilovers
gotta get my car back from the caddy dealer so i can find out what shocks I have.
What about bilstien? Do they make good shocks for these cars? KYB? Anyone else?
06-07-2008, 03:39 AM
#31
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If you are killing a set of rotors on this car in one race you obviously have something wrong as people who run the car in T2 only go through 2 sets of front rotors a season and one set of rears. Last year I ran around 20 AX's and 2 track weekends on 1 set of pads and a set of front rotors. Don't forget the most important mod of them all, the driver, all of these go fast parts are great, but this car is faster than most drivers in stock form.
06-08-2008, 09:22 AM
#32
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Personally here's the order I'd look into if you plan on tracking the car:
Ground Control adjustable suspension
UUC short shift kit
Urethane motor mounts
Braided steel brake lines
Schroth 4-point harnesses
Good track brake pads (Carbotech XP12 - front, XP10 - Rear)
If you have experience on track, extra set of wheels with R compund tires
Luke Butler at Lindsay Cadillac (www.LindsayCadillac.com) can help with the Ground Control, UUC and urethane motor mounts plus some other stuff.
Feff
Ground Control adjustable suspension
UUC short shift kit
Urethane motor mounts
Braided steel brake lines
Schroth 4-point harnesses
Good track brake pads (Carbotech XP12 - front, XP10 - Rear)
If you have experience on track, extra set of wheels with R compund tires
Luke Butler at Lindsay Cadillac (www.LindsayCadillac.com) can help with the Ground Control, UUC and urethane motor mounts plus some other stuff.
Feff
06-09-2008, 01:56 PM
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Personally here's the order I'd look into if you plan on tracking the car:
Ground Control adjustable suspension
UUC short shift kit
Urethane motor mounts
Braided steel brake lines
Schroth 4-point harnesses
Good track brake pads (Carbotech XP12 - front, XP10 - Rear)
If you have experience on track, extra set of wheels with R compund tires
Luke Butler at Lindsay Cadillac (www.LindsayCadillac.com) can help with the Ground Control, UUC and urethane motor mounts plus some other stuff.
Feff
Ground Control adjustable suspension
UUC short shift kit
Urethane motor mounts
Braided steel brake lines
Schroth 4-point harnesses
Good track brake pads (Carbotech XP12 - front, XP10 - Rear)
If you have experience on track, extra set of wheels with R compund tires
Luke Butler at Lindsay Cadillac (www.LindsayCadillac.com) can help with the Ground Control, UUC and urethane motor mounts plus some other stuff.
Feff
06-19-2008, 03:23 PM
#34
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If you are killing a set of rotors on this car in one race you obviously have something wrong as people who run the car in T2 only go through 2 sets of front rotors a season and one set of rears. Last year I ran around 20 AX's and 2 track weekends on 1 set of pads and a set of front rotors. Don't forget the most important mod of them all, the driver, all of these go fast parts are great, but this car is faster than most drivers in stock form.
06-19-2008, 03:28 PM
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Best thing i heard all day was from a ZR1 owner... "i got passed by a cadillac!!!!"
06-19-2008, 07:40 PM
#36
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Me too! I just did an HPDE at www.motorsportranch.com on the 1.3 WOW... i'll have video up soon!
Best thing i heard all day was from a ZR1 owner... "i got passed by a cadillac!!!!"
Best thing i heard all day was from a ZR1 owner... "i got passed by a cadillac!!!!"
12-04-2008, 09:31 AM
#39
http://cadillacfaq.com/faq/answers/alignment.html
I just repalced my tires after about 10k miles on this alignment, and the wear pattern was just slightly more on the inside of the tires.
-Chris
12-04-2008, 09:57 AM
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Good info. I'll save that and put a track setup on it a few days before my track outings. Does your car shift around alot with that toe in setting? Like over ruts in the asphalt and such? I've got the sport package (I guess thats FG2) on mine as well.